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General Car Audio
JBL setup with a754, Fuse sub & Club 605CSQ advise please
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<blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8854451" data-attributes="member: 689267"><p>Don’t over think the fuse thing; your system is pretty simple as far as the fuses are concerned, I’ll get to that in a bit. I don’t usually go and recommend rethinking the research you’ve already done but I know the JBL/Harmon industries stuff pretty well, NVX, pioneer, focal, Morel and a host of others pretty thoroughly too. That said, I would bail the JBL amp. Overpriced, under powered. This 5 channel Recoil amp, the RED1880.5 is the same price and is a lot more powerful and versatile should things change down the road. You can run the comps bridged (like 300x2) which is more power than you’ll ever need (that’s a good thing)! And no, you won’t blow the comps; you’ll likely never want to hear them at 100 watts let alone 300! Then, the sub channel you can run with the two subs, each sub in series with itself, 8ohms, and then the two subs in parallel to the 5th channel for a 4 ohm 600 watt output. You could also run them parallel down to 1 ohm for 980 watts of output, but no need, 600 watts to this set of subs exceeds their capability and at 4ohms the amp is hardly working ( think longevity). If you ever decided to get additional speakers, you can just run all for channels and the sub and still have gobs of power. Remember, no such think g as too much power!</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.recoilaudio.com/product/red1800-5-1800-watts-class-d-car-audio-5-channel-amplifier-mono-1-ohm-stable-remote-bass-knob-included/[/URL]</p><p></p><h3>Skip the JBL comps and at that price, go with the Pioneer Z series Pioneer TS-Z65CH. I’ve heard these side by side, the JBL’s are good, the Z’s are really outstanding. Same price, better speakers. Run them at 4ohms bridged, x2. That's some serious volume all the way around. They also have the option of attenuating the tweeter for minus 3db, flat or +3db, that's a nice feature.</h3><p></p><p><a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/224812373761?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1" target="_blank">https://www.ebay.com/itm/224812373761?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1</a></p><p></p><p>FUSES-</p><p></p><p>One is all you will need. A fuse or breaker for the wire/amp current rating no further than 18” from the battery, inline on the power wire. A fuse or breaker 18” from the amp is never a bad Idea either but not nesscary. For power and ground wire in this setup, I would recommend (depending on the length of the run) at least 2AWG wire (if under 10ft), 1/0AWG if longer . I do not use CCA wire, only pure copper wire runs for me. CCA wire may be attractively priced but there is a reason it isn’t legal for electrical use in homes. Don;t hear a lt of people talking about CAP's these days, but for this setup (ones in the 1000 to 1800 watt range), a nice (REAL ratings) 2 farad cap would go a long way to helping out the amplifiers BASS performance and the cars electrical without breaking the bank. T-spec makes a nice reasonabley priced 3 farad cap with a covered/protected distro cap for around $70. THis guy offered me one at $67 after I started to follow it on eBay:</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.ebay.com/itm/185782768091?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1[/URL]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Doxquzme, post: 8854451, member: 689267"] Don’t over think the fuse thing; your system is pretty simple as far as the fuses are concerned, I’ll get to that in a bit. I don’t usually go and recommend rethinking the research you’ve already done but I know the JBL/Harmon industries stuff pretty well, NVX, pioneer, focal, Morel and a host of others pretty thoroughly too. That said, I would bail the JBL amp. Overpriced, under powered. This 5 channel Recoil amp, the RED1880.5 is the same price and is a lot more powerful and versatile should things change down the road. You can run the comps bridged (like 300x2) which is more power than you’ll ever need (that’s a good thing)! And no, you won’t blow the comps; you’ll likely never want to hear them at 100 watts let alone 300! Then, the sub channel you can run with the two subs, each sub in series with itself, 8ohms, and then the two subs in parallel to the 5th channel for a 4 ohm 600 watt output. You could also run them parallel down to 1 ohm for 980 watts of output, but no need, 600 watts to this set of subs exceeds their capability and at 4ohms the amp is hardly working ( think longevity). If you ever decided to get additional speakers, you can just run all for channels and the sub and still have gobs of power. Remember, no such think g as too much power! [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.recoilaudio.com/product/red1800-5-1800-watts-class-d-car-audio-5-channel-amplifier-mono-1-ohm-stable-remote-bass-knob-included/[/URL] [HEADING=2]Skip the JBL comps and at that price, go with the Pioneer Z series Pioneer TS-Z65CH. I’ve heard these side by side, the JBL’s are good, the Z’s are really outstanding. Same price, better speakers. Run them at 4ohms bridged, x2. That's some serious volume all the way around. They also have the option of attenuating the tweeter for minus 3db, flat or +3db, that's a nice feature.[/HEADING] [URL]https://www.ebay.com/itm/224812373761?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1[/URL] FUSES- One is all you will need. A fuse or breaker for the wire/amp current rating no further than 18” from the battery, inline on the power wire. A fuse or breaker 18” from the amp is never a bad Idea either but not nesscary. For power and ground wire in this setup, I would recommend (depending on the length of the run) at least 2AWG wire (if under 10ft), 1/0AWG if longer . I do not use CCA wire, only pure copper wire runs for me. CCA wire may be attractively priced but there is a reason it isn’t legal for electrical use in homes. Don;t hear a lt of people talking about CAP's these days, but for this setup (ones in the 1000 to 1800 watt range), a nice (REAL ratings) 2 farad cap would go a long way to helping out the amplifiers BASS performance and the cars electrical without breaking the bank. T-spec makes a nice reasonabley priced 3 farad cap with a covered/protected distro cap for around $70. THis guy offered me one at $67 after I started to follow it on eBay: [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.ebay.com/itm/185782768091?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1[/URL] [/QUOTE]
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JBL setup with a754, Fuse sub & Club 605CSQ advise please
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