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Gather 'round the campfire, new project is a brewin' *56k, yeah right*
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<blockquote data-quote="thylantyr" data-source="post: 2537864" data-attributes="member: 560358"><p>Prototyping Board {printed circuit board} comes in many different designs.</p><p></p><p>It's pretty expensive actually and you can use a cheaper method to wire up</p><p></p><p>crossovers.</p><p></p><p><strong>Protoboards</strong> [simple to complex].</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.asp?SKU=237-0119&amp;SEARCH=&amp;ID=&amp;DESC=8000%2D45&amp;R=237%2D0119&amp;sid=45A2DB004273E17F" target="_blank">http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.asp?SKU=237-0119&amp;SEARCH=&amp;ID=&amp;DESC=8000%2D45&amp;R=237%2D0119&amp;sid=45A2DB004273E17F</a></p><p></p><p>1. The circuit board typically FR4 material with pre-drilled holes. Hole size varies</p><p></p><p>per design, and hole center to center spacing is typically 100 mils. The cheap</p><p></p><p>board has no copper pads so when you install a component, there is nothing to</p><p></p><p>solder the lead to. The only way to make this work nice is to glue each component</p><p></p><p>to the PCB so it won't fall off. Kinda stinks if you have to modify your design later.</p><p></p><p>2. The good PCB is where there is a copper pad around the hole so you can</p><p></p><p>solder the component lead to it as it secures the component in place so it</p><p></p><p>doesn't fall off the board.</p><p></p><p>3. The next type of PCB is where they put a pad on both sides of the PCB and</p><p></p><p>plate through the hole so there is electrical connection between the top and bottom side pads. Do you need this? No really but it cost more.</p><p></p><p>4. They also make esoteric protoboards with buss bars where a group of pads</p><p></p><p>are all connected together electrically to form a common bus. For instance,</p><p></p><p>you can use this as a power and ground buss. Once you solder the parts to</p><p></p><p>the bus, no additional wiring is needed as the pcb has the bus trace.</p><p></p><p>5. They also make other weird protoboards so beware of what you buy.</p><p></p><p><strong>DIY PCB</strong></p><p></p><p>One cheap way to make your own circuit on a PCB is to get some copper</p><p></p><p>clad board, ink resist pen, and some etchant. You do some preliminary parts</p><p></p><p>placement on the board and estimate where the component holes will be</p><p></p><p>and draw a solid pad using the pen. Draw a pad much bigger than the hole</p><p></p><p>size that you plan to drill later. Draw all the component holes. Then</p><p></p><p>draw the circuit with the pen connecting the dots according to the schematic.</p><p></p><p>Draw thick traces. Etch the board. Drill the component pads. Install the parts,</p><p></p><p>solder. /done</p><p></p><p>The fancy way to do this is using rub on decals or you do the design on</p><p></p><p>a computer and transfer the design to the copper clad board or have a fab</p><p></p><p>house build your custom board [not cheap].</p><p></p><p><strong>DIY non PCB</strong></p><p></p><p>Get some thin hardwood {masonite} 1/8" if you can find it. Mount your parts,</p><p></p><p>drill some holes, use tie wraps or glue to hold the parts in place. Point to point</p><p></p><p>wiring.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Optimo_bestanden/image050.jpg" target="_blank">http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Optimo_bestanden/image050.jpg</a></p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/HATT-III_bestanden/image024.jpg" target="_blank">http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/HATT-III_bestanden/image024.jpg</a></p><p></p><p>Whatever method you choose, SQ will not be affected.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="thylantyr, post: 2537864, member: 560358"] Prototyping Board {printed circuit board} comes in many different designs. It's pretty expensive actually and you can use a cheaper method to wire up crossovers. [B]Protoboards[/B] [simple to complex]. [URL="http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.asp?SKU=237-0119&SEARCH=&ID=&DESC=8000%2D45&R=237%2D0119&sid=45A2DB004273E17F"]http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.asp?SKU=237-0119&SEARCH=&ID=&DESC=8000%2D45&R=237%2D0119&sid=45A2DB004273E17F[/URL] 1. The circuit board typically FR4 material with pre-drilled holes. Hole size varies per design, and hole center to center spacing is typically 100 mils. The cheap board has no copper pads so when you install a component, there is nothing to solder the lead to. The only way to make this work nice is to glue each component to the PCB so it won't fall off. Kinda stinks if you have to modify your design later. 2. The good PCB is where there is a copper pad around the hole so you can solder the component lead to it as it secures the component in place so it doesn't fall off the board. 3. The next type of PCB is where they put a pad on both sides of the PCB and plate through the hole so there is electrical connection between the top and bottom side pads. Do you need this? No really but it cost more. 4. They also make esoteric protoboards with buss bars where a group of pads are all connected together electrically to form a common bus. For instance, you can use this as a power and ground buss. Once you solder the parts to the bus, no additional wiring is needed as the pcb has the bus trace. 5. They also make other weird protoboards so beware of what you buy. [B]DIY PCB[/B] One cheap way to make your own circuit on a PCB is to get some copper clad board, ink resist pen, and some etchant. You do some preliminary parts placement on the board and estimate where the component holes will be and draw a solid pad using the pen. Draw a pad much bigger than the hole size that you plan to drill later. Draw all the component holes. Then draw the circuit with the pen connecting the dots according to the schematic. Draw thick traces. Etch the board. Drill the component pads. Install the parts, solder. /done The fancy way to do this is using rub on decals or you do the design on a computer and transfer the design to the copper clad board or have a fab house build your custom board [not cheap]. [B]DIY non PCB[/B] Get some thin hardwood {masonite} 1/8" if you can find it. Mount your parts, drill some holes, use tie wraps or glue to hold the parts in place. Point to point wiring. [URL="http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Optimo_bestanden/image050.jpg"]http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Optimo_bestanden/image050.jpg[/URL] [URL="http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/HATT-III_bestanden/image024.jpg"]http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/HATT-III_bestanden/image024.jpg[/URL] Whatever method you choose, SQ will not be affected. [/QUOTE]
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