Menu
Forum
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Car Audio Build Logs
Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Wanted
Classifieds Member Feedback
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Join
Test
Forum
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Big 3 upgrade....worth it or not??
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="IndySlim" data-source="post: 8684636" data-attributes="member: 676664"><p>I had the same issue running even less power my amp was a jl slash 500/.</p><p>I got on here and was told that a big 3 would fix my issue. Basically my factory alternator should be able to handle 1000 to 1500 watts or, so I was told. Anyways i got a big 3 and a xs d3400 battery no problems since. I actually blew my subs because the amp was now getting the proper power. I also have 0 gauge wires. My problem was that I had my ground to the amp grounded to the body and if you know electricity then you know that everything that goes out must come back into the battery and the neg wiring must be able to handle whatever the positive can meaning they should be the same gauge. The body ground wire in my car was like 10 or 12 gauge (it was the ground for my fuel pump and 2 other accessories) and it got fried!!! So when I did the big 3 it added more ground to my set up and lights havent dimmed since. Now if i could just get some new subs. PS. Dont buy low level kicker subs they were brand new and, rated at 300w rms I had 250w going to each sub and 2 days after the upgrade they smoked like a chimney</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="IndySlim, post: 8684636, member: 676664"] I had the same issue running even less power my amp was a jl slash 500/. I got on here and was told that a big 3 would fix my issue. Basically my factory alternator should be able to handle 1000 to 1500 watts or, so I was told. Anyways i got a big 3 and a xs d3400 battery no problems since. I actually blew my subs because the amp was now getting the proper power. I also have 0 gauge wires. My problem was that I had my ground to the amp grounded to the body and if you know electricity then you know that everything that goes out must come back into the battery and the neg wiring must be able to handle whatever the positive can meaning they should be the same gauge. The body ground wire in my car was like 10 or 12 gauge (it was the ground for my fuel pump and 2 other accessories) and it got fried!!! So when I did the big 3 it added more ground to my set up and lights havent dimmed since. Now if i could just get some new subs. PS. Dont buy low level kicker subs they were brand new and, rated at 300w rms I had 250w going to each sub and 2 days after the upgrade they smoked like a chimney [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Big 3 upgrade....worth it or not??
Top
Menu
Home
Refresh