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Basic question about calculating RMS and total wattage of my set up
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<blockquote data-quote="n2audio" data-source="post: 8702572" data-attributes="member: 540940"><p>It wasn't. That method works fine. Although not all amps have fuses.</p><p></p><p></p><p>That's not really how it works. Fuses aren't like light switches. A 40A fuse will suffice for a ~60A amplifier because the actual current draw of an amp with ~60A max would be nowhere near 60A the majority of the time, and on short term 50-60A peaks the 40A fuse wouldn't cause any problems. Fuses are just short pieces of thin wire. They take time to heat up, melt, and blow.</p><p>If you look at fuse specs, specifically time/current plots - ratings are what the fuse will pass basically forever. A 40A fuse would pass 50A for a long time, 60A at least a few minutes, even 80 for a second or so.</p><p></p><p>It could be argued that the smaller fuse has a bit more resistance and would create extra voltage drop -- yes, but only measurable, no where near audible.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="n2audio, post: 8702572, member: 540940"] It wasn't. That method works fine. Although not all amps have fuses. That's not really how it works. Fuses aren't like light switches. A 40A fuse will suffice for a ~60A amplifier because the actual current draw of an amp with ~60A max would be nowhere near 60A the majority of the time, and on short term 50-60A peaks the 40A fuse wouldn't cause any problems. Fuses are just short pieces of thin wire. They take time to heat up, melt, and blow. If you look at fuse specs, specifically time/current plots - ratings are what the fuse will pass basically forever. A 40A fuse would pass 50A for a long time, 60A at least a few minutes, even 80 for a second or so. It could be argued that the smaller fuse has a bit more resistance and would create extra voltage drop -- yes, but only measurable, no where near audible. [/QUOTE]
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Basic question about calculating RMS and total wattage of my set up
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