Recent content by Chromatic

No one likes JL's here.. I like your setup -- I agree with the sentiment to ditch the Rear speakers (or go WAY down on their power).. If you want to setup the stage properly you will be fading those rears down 80 percent or so.. IE: I have a pair of $500 MB Quart's from the 90's for my rears...

Actually I've never played paintball.. I've messed with the guns a little.. but never got into it. Let me know if you start planning anything.. I may just join you guys up on that!

Agreed.. 90% of the Brick and Mortar Car Audio stores here in Birmingham have died.. If they didn't go in the Recession they eliminated themselves and the "car audio" market in 2010 or so.. ie: Tweeter, Circuit City, Sounds Great, and a dozen other independently owned shops. Now we have two...

I was born at Brookwood Hospital and my first home was off 119,. in a little neighborhood that connects to Meadow Brook called "Southern Pines".. It's a good area around here.. it's just become too populated and traffic has become a nightmare now.

Off hwy 280.. Between say 459 and Chelsea.

So how'd it work out?

Maybe this will help: 2012 Honda Civic Si Car Radio Wiring Instructions Car Radio Battery Constant 12V+ Wire: White Car Radio Accessory Switched 12V+ Wire: Violet Car Radio Ground Wire: Black Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray Car Radio Dimmer Wire: Red Car Radio Antenna Trigger Wire...

What Make, Model, and Year of vehicle? Anyhow -- The Illumination is not usually a "dimmer" in the traditional sense where your headunit dims in increments as you dim your dash lights. It has two brightness settings basically and when you switch on the headlights one comes on, with lights off...

Thanks.. I'm no pro -- This was my first Install ever.. Just did what I could -- My goal with it was to be inside the car have no clue it had a System in it.. And I succeeded in that.. cept the headunit of course. Most people wouldn't know that Cover on the door wasn't factory either.. as...

This amp (as many others) -- Will shut down when the heat sensor in it reaches 80 degree's C. (176 F) -- Now this doesn't equate to it can operate in 110 degree F temps in the location it is in.. this is the internal temperature , generally on the heatsink, of the Amp. An amp can reach...

In general.. it's very unlikely. However,.. you have to remember a Capacitor is placing additional strain on your alternator because it's keeping both the battery charged and the Cap.. ie: 1 Farad = 1000w (or so they say ) -- I'm more of a fan of obtaining the proper alternator that will keep...

Good deal. Yup, I fried the board via force "G-shock" on the unit .. mylows was just in a good position at the time when my unfortane occurred and had another of the same unit (IIRC) that had a bad screen and bad /no preouts , but had a good board, etc. While mine had perfect preo-outs...

$500 was my original budget.. I ended up breaking it by about $300-$4oo in parts..and did what would have been a 2500-3500 install (if parts included) for under a solid $900. You've already been given great recommnedation for the sub.. You won't go wrong with Sundown.. But have you given...

Despite the "Internet self made Guru's who claim otherwise" -- It's 100% safe for our cars with all our equipment. The only danger with jumping (receiving or giving) -- is if the polarity is reversed by accident.. This reverse in polarity can certainly damage your equipment and not necessarily...

Good question. There is no doubt Oxygen Free Copper is more efficient/better than CCA. Copper > Conductor than Aluminum.. period. First as others have said.. an Ebay cheap alternator , imo, (I do a lot of work on cars),.. is arguably worse than running a factory alternator due to the build...