Recent content by Blake Vandercar

Here is my frequency response in REW (note that the sub is off. These are separate L-R readings. The tweeters are on an active crossover @ 3.5kHz) See how the 100-300Hz range for the midrange speakers is much lower than the 400Hz-3.5kHz range? So that makes me wonder, when EQing, do I boost...

I really do not think it’s a midbass problem. What I am saying is that I wish my 10” subs were stronger at 20-30 Hz, and my 12” were stronger at 80-100Hz, and wondering if anyone has any suggestions on subs/sub setups to have both.

All the way down on the sub amp, 10Hz HPF. 200Hz on the DSP (because like I said I want the widest frequency range— but would lowering this bring out the <40Hz freqs?) yes dynamat. In doors. 2013 Honda Pilot. RF P165-SE 6.5” component speakers, but bypassed the passive crossover in favorite of...

They aren’t. I have a LPF for the sub at 200Hz. I just assumed that the fact that their frequency range goes up to 500 Hz indicates a better response at say, 80 Hz, than a sub that goes up to 200 Hz

Stock HU, 6.5” component Rockford Fosgates, Pioneer amp. DSP EQing and subsequent RTA reading indicates adequate response above ~100Hz from the mid range speakers actually analyzed the high note in the song I mentioned in Audacity. This was a while ago but I’m pretty sure it was somewhere...

I had a 12" Sundown SA-12 . Now have 2 Kicker CompRs. Both times, in sealed boxes. Of course, all forums say that Sundowns are always better than Kickers. However, I now like the 10" kickers much better due to having a much wider frequency range (30-500 Hz) whereas the Sundown really failed...

Only gives the coils-in-series, subs-in-parallel option, whereas I’m sure the flipped way would also work

So I can either wire each sub’s coils in parallel to create 1 ohm each, then wire the subs in series to create a total of 2 ohm load. OR I can wire each sub’s coils in series to create 4 ohms each, then wire the subs in parallel to create a total of 2 ohm load. Does it matter which way I go with?

Dual coil 4-ohm 750W sub wired in parallel to an amp rated 800W @ 2 ohm. Gain was less than half on the amp and level dial was not all the way up. Many reviews say people are able to overdrive this sub much, much more than 800W and it can take it all day— this should not have happened with this sub.

I’ll take it out and see if there’s and abnormalities on the inside. If this is the case, is there a fix? Covered under warranty? Sub is 1 month old. Sundown 12”

Out of nowhere my sub now rattles (sound comes from the center of it) at high volumes, almost as if it’s whacking something? Suspension is good and bass is very much still present, just with the addition of an annoying rattling sound. What gives? Only thing I can think of is maybe one of my T...

I got that bluetooth dongle for the DSP just so I could compare SQ with that of the head unit as an audio source. Not a HUGE difference *between the two*, which is great news. But I’ve been still trying to tweak the sound while using the BT audio source. Since I’ve isolated the problem down...

These passive component speakers have many great reviews but I’ve been trying for a long time to EQ my system to sound right with them. They are just far too shrill— highs are high and mids are lacking. So naturally, I thought that this was the fault of the tweeters. The crossover frequency of...

No it’s a component package system that includes an external passive crossover for the woofers and tweeters. No idea what the crossover freq is. Sadly there’s no -6dB switch on the crossovers like there is for some.

Most problems have been fixed! Dayton DSP is great. I found out the noise was in fact from my head unit-- So the solution was to keep the gains low on both the DSP and amp, meaning I usually have my head unit volume fluctuating around 3/4ths max at normal listening level-- which has resulted in...