This is very helpful to people new to HO alts! Wish I had found this sorta thing back when I was buying one for my car.
i like to think of it like this. lets say you have a 10 amp breaker for your 110 volt tv and a 30 amp breaker with heavier wire for your 110 volt air conditioner with heavier wire. one day tou plug the tv into the a/c plugin. did it fry because of the higher capacity, no you actually put less strain on the system. i know this is alt current but it puts it into laymans terms. if anything a HO alternator is safer as long as you do it right... with more output your amp will put out less distortion making it easier for your subs. also there will be less voltage fluctuation in the rest of the car, making it easier on things like your ignition coils or ecu.
i said the tv wouldnt fry. read it again... and ok if the amp wasnt recieving enough current in the first place it would put out less distortion than it did before with the proper current. mybad. also when im wiring something i like to make sure i have way more power available than i actually need that way if i change it up i dont have to put in heavier equipment to back it up. thats a pain in the ***.
I'm running a H/O alt with the big 3 wire also 3 Kinectic batteries, and running a 4g. wire to each batt from alt.Plus a cap on each amp. Things have been running cool and smooth. If you take short cuts you will end up with problems.
How will it run better w/o the caps??? It hold the voltage is more consistent with the caps. That why they are in place. This system has been under construction for 3 years. Testing which amps, speakers, caps batteries work best. With all the testing I've done. So for this has been the most consistant the voltage has been. So You have me confused why you would suggest removing the caps. ???
Caps dont provide power, just reinforce it. I would never try that you will end up burning something up.
Does anyone know how to determine if the regulator is built into the alternator or the computer?
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