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    Re: lights dimming without serious voltage drops?

    Quote Originally Posted by TreyE View Post
    I took that as, when his car is off his batteries are resting at 12.4 volts. Ive always thought it should be at least 12.5-12.9 resting...
    actually i think the voltage should be at 12v- 12.5 when its OFF...

    while idle it should read between 14.2- 14.4v







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    Re: lights dimming without serious voltage drops?

    Quote Originally Posted by robert420 View Post
    actually i think the voltage should be at 12v- 12.5 when its OFF...

    while idle it should read between 14.2- 14.4v
    car dependent. Some like mine before the bypass dont charge over 13.8



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    Re: lights dimming without serious voltage drops?

    Quote Originally Posted by robert420 View Post
    actually i think the voltage should be at 12v- 12.5 when its OFF...

    while idle it should read between 14.2- 14.4v
    I guess 12.4 is ok. Any lower you need to charge or do a load test (for free at autozone or something). It should NOT be resting at 12-12.2, thats no bueno.



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    Re: lights dimming without serious voltage drops?

    Quote Originally Posted by DDtC View Post
    car dependent. Some like mine before the bypass dont charge over 13.8
    makes sense... my car stays at a steady 13.8 all day long




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    Re: lights dimming without serious voltage drops?

    Man up and externally regulate tht shlt ..i rest at 15.3




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    Re: lights dimming without serious voltage drops?

    Optima's are crap. I had a Yellowtop in my last car, won't buy one again. Bought it new in August, fell to resting voltage of 12.2V by November. That's part of his current problem.

    BUT, no one can really recommend what he should get, besides maybe new batteries, until he actually says what amps he's going to be using, and therefore what kind of draw he will be seeing. Blind guessing at this point. Need more info OP.



    Quote Originally Posted by ducatipaso View Post
    15inch subs can't play fast beats, they take more power and that taxes the vehicles electrical system. You will wake up and "hear" then see the light at the end of the tunnel and it will be 3 10's pounding so hard you wont even open your trunk or turn your system on because you 15's will sound sloppy & weak.
    Quote Originally Posted by benbenondatrack View Post
    stfu lesbo.why are you worried about me so much? you must want to date me ya little cookie monster but i dont even like sweets. your just a cup full of ice, dirt dead nasty azz ice...without the water.

    Dat Build Log: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/578701-1999-chevrolet-blazer.html

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    Re: lights dimming without serious voltage drops?

    Quote Originally Posted by gckless View Post
    So again, what amps do you have and plan on getting? If you plan on getting decent sized amps, electrical is going to cost a lot, so you may want to rethink your amp decision.
    Well I have a t2000 thought about two of those but I have a ln audiopipe 3000 and I think it sounds much better on the woofers than the t2000 honestly more power and better range of settings. So thought on another one plus they are cheap I had two once but I was a idiot and mad and in a hurry doing something and fried it.

    Plus subs are w7s so the odd ohms favors the ap3000




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    Re: lights dimming without serious voltage drops?

    Quote Originally Posted by robert420 View Post
    actually i think the voltage should be at 12v- 12.5 when its OFF...

    while idle it should read between 14.2- 14.4v
    Yeah every battery I've personally tested with it being out of the vehicle has rested at 12.4 and that's even after a full charge from the battery charger... And I have had both batteries tested to make sure everything was okay with them when I got em




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    Re: lights dimming without serious voltage drops?

    Quote Originally Posted by DDtC View Post
    How about start by setting the amp up right and make sure you have a good ground
    I'm pretty sure my ground isn't ideal but I know its solid...its grounded to the battery and the battery is grounded to the floorboard sanded and bolted down very tight.

    I mean I can get pretty loud like car alarms go off with it at 40 with zero drop but I got it set to go to like 58 before distortion and that's when the voltages will start to drop




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    Re: lights dimming without serious voltage drops?

    58 before distortion??? what headunit is that? was it set with a dd1 or oscope to test distortion at the hu..seems high




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    Re: lights dimming without serious voltage drops?

    Quote Originally Posted by NASTY08IMPALA View Post
    58 before distortion??? what headunit is that? was it set with a dd1 or oscope to test distortion at the hu..seems high
    It is high but I keep my bass on the hu at 0 or under amp is not even half way gain. Its a pioneer that is like 3 or 4 years old don't remember the model off hand it tops out at like 70 I think and I have this setting SLA I think is what it is though not sure exactly what it means or meant to do bit I turn that to about neg 2 which dulls everything down which allows me to turn it up high I think it sounds much better that way




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    Re: lights dimming without serious voltage drops?

    Quote Originally Posted by des343 View Post
    Well I have a t2000 thought about two of those but I have a ln audiopipe 3000 and I think it sounds much better on the woofers than the t2000 honestly more power and better range of settings. So thought on another one plus they are cheap I had two once but I was a idiot and mad and in a hurry doing something and fried it.

    Plus subs are w7s so the odd ohms favors the ap3000
    I'm a bit buzzed, but this is really confusing to me. So are you currently running both those amps in the car? List what amps you are currently using, and which amps you plan on getting.

    But 4 of either of those amps is going to require some substantial electrical. No wonder you're dropping to low voltages running 2. You're going to need HO alt, multiple runs of 1/0ga from front to back, big 3 done in 1/0ga, multiple batteries in the back. If you buy new, absolutely no less than $1200, but probably more like $1800 or so. If you buy all used, you might get away with ~$1000



    Quote Originally Posted by ducatipaso View Post
    15inch subs can't play fast beats, they take more power and that taxes the vehicles electrical system. You will wake up and "hear" then see the light at the end of the tunnel and it will be 3 10's pounding so hard you wont even open your trunk or turn your system on because you 15's will sound sloppy & weak.
    Quote Originally Posted by benbenondatrack View Post
    stfu lesbo.why are you worried about me so much? you must want to date me ya little cookie monster but i dont even like sweets. your just a cup full of ice, dirt dead nasty azz ice...without the water.

    Dat Build Log: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/578701-1999-chevrolet-blazer.html

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    Re: lights dimming without serious voltage drops?

    Quote Originally Posted by gckless View Post
    I'm a bit buzzed, but this is really confusing to me. So are you currently running both those amps in the car? List what amps you are currently using, and which amps you plan on getting.

    But 4 of either of those amps is going to require some substantial electrical. No wonder you're dropping to low voltages running 2. You're going to need HO alt, multiple runs of 1/0ga from front to back, big 3 done in 1/0ga, multiple batteries in the back. If you buy new, absolutely no less than $1200, but probably more like $1800 or so. If you buy all used, you might get away with ~$1000
    Lol im only running one which is the ap3000 I've tried both at different times. But I have 4 w7s current set up only has 2 of them




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    Re: lights dimming without serious voltage drops?

    Possibly your alternator is going. My f350 would dim heavily when using my MM plow. Replaced the alternator and problem solved.



    Smokey the Deer says downed power lines are bad!!!

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    Re: lights dimming without serious voltage drops?

    Quote Originally Posted by des343 View Post
    Lol im only running one which is the ap3000 I've tried both at different times. But I have 4 w7s current set up only has 2 of them
    Even running one, not surprised you're dropping down as low as you are. Not at all. What do you plan on running in the future?



    Quote Originally Posted by ducatipaso View Post
    15inch subs can't play fast beats, they take more power and that taxes the vehicles electrical system. You will wake up and "hear" then see the light at the end of the tunnel and it will be 3 10's pounding so hard you wont even open your trunk or turn your system on because you 15's will sound sloppy & weak.
    Quote Originally Posted by benbenondatrack View Post
    stfu lesbo.why are you worried about me so much? you must want to date me ya little cookie monster but i dont even like sweets. your just a cup full of ice, dirt dead nasty azz ice...without the water.

    Dat Build Log: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/578701-1999-chevrolet-blazer.html

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