Does it persist on doing it if you keep it hooked up?
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Does it persist on doing it if you keep it hooked up?
That's the thing, I've only hooked it up once, and when I did, it sounded like a small gun shooting off in the trunk area...Quote:
Originally Posted by Lowflyin
Should I try it again?
If the fuse is still fine on the amp, does that mean the amp isn't fried?
not true about 3' lengthQuote:
Originally Posted by marc2112
So wait, you said you tested it and it works after this happened. If you've only had it hooked up once, how exactly did you test it?Quote:
Originally Posted by mcarlos95
And the fuse will generally blow before the amp. Usually.
By hooking it up once I meant having everything set up and then connecting the negative cable to hear a loud pop from the trunk. Sorry if I was unclear. I barely received my first amp yesterday in the mail and the whole loud pop thing happened yesterday. I tested the sub that was connected through a crappy home entertainment system in my room. I connected the pos/ground wires from my home subwoofer to the car sub that was used during the loud pop and it played. Softly, but it played. Should I try hooking it up again? It rained most of today and the car is soaked. Should I proceed to trying again in the garage?Quote:
Originally Posted by gckless
Okay, first the positive and negative they are talking about are your power and ground, not your speaker wires, the ones to the left in your picture. Those are the ones you need to make sure are hooked up correctly, a multimeter would maybe be good see if it is 12volts or -12volts. But just visually verifying would be sufficient.
From the manual I found online(which leaves a lot to be desired) it looks like to hook it to 1 svc sub you would use the left + and left - of the speaker connectors and leave the right ones open. Those are the 4 smaller terminals in the middle of the amp.
I would double check all your wiring and then try it again. Actual pics of your amp and the wiring would be helpful.
double check everything and try again, only way to know if the amp doesn't work.
I appreciate you going to that extent to help someone out. Thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by husker77
I could have sworn the cables were connected correctly, but I guess not. I will set it up again in a hour or so when I have more time and take pictures before I actually connect the negative cable to the battery again.
Since the amp is 300W @ 4 ohms and the sub is 125W RMS, is it possible that the sub will blow? I have 2 of the same subs, but I figured I should use one because if I use them both, I can only hook the amp up at 2 ohms right? 2 ohms for 2 subs like these is way too much(250W vs 500W).
You may have it wired up right, just double, triple and quadruple check, then power it up again to see what it does.Quote:
Originally Posted by mcarlos95
What brand of sub? Maybe I missed that. They are svc 4 ohm sub right? You do not always get full power out of your amp, if it is to much power just don't turn the gain up as much. Let's get one thing taken care of at a time though.
Disconnect the sub from the amp before you power it up. Get the amp to power up successfully first, then go back and connect the sub (with the amp off obviously).
Well, I hooked everything up again. It TURNED ON!!!
While the amp did turn on with the car's stereo, the sub isn't playing.
I connected the RCA cables to the far left red and white ports on my stereo. It's a Pioneer IB 3000.
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/St...B_Back_Lrg.jpg
It isn't labeled so...? Maybe that's why the sub isn't playing?
What gauge cable should I have running from the Sub to the box and what cable should I have running from the box to the amp?
I have 14 gauge running from the sub right now to the box. What type of cable goes from the box to the amp? So would it be safe to wire both Kenwood 10" 125W RMS subs at 2 ohms? Isn't this putting stress on the amp?
These subs are really weak, I know. I bought them both and a dual 10" box off of a cousin for $10! Should I get rid of the subs and buy better ones? The box is sealed, should I get a ported? I want to be able to feel a difference compared to my stock speakers.
Thanks to all for all the help.
Well, I hooked everything up again. It TURNED ON!!!
While the amp did turn on with the car's stereo, the sub isn't playing.
I connected the RCA cables to the far left red and white ports on my stereo. It's a Pioneer IB 3000.
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/St...B_Back_Lrg.jpg
It isn't labeled so...? Maybe that's why the sub isn't playing?
What gauge cable should I have running from the Sub to the box and what cable should I have running from the box to the amp?
I have 14 gauge running from the sub right now to the box. What type of cable goes from the box to the amp? So would it be safe to wire both Kenwood 10" 125W RMS subs at 2 ohms? Isn't this putting stress on the amp?
These subs are really weak, I know. I bought them both and a dual 10" box off of a cousin for $10! Should I get rid of the subs and buy better ones? The box is sealed, should I get a ported? I want to be able to feel a difference compared to my stock speakers.
Thanks to all for all the help.
Baby steps, see what you got first then upgrade or change from there. Yes you should be able to wire both subs, 2ohms isn't that low of impedance.
That's the same deck someone put in my wife's expedition, man I hate it.
You should get something to subs even if it isn't the right preouts.
Baby steps, see what you got first then upgrade or change from there. Yes you should be able to wire both subs, 2ohms isn't that low of impedance.
That's the same deck someone put in my wife's expedition, man I hate it.
You should get something to subs even if it isn't the right preouts.
What type of wire do I use to connect the sub to the box and then the box to the amp?
The box has this cup built in.
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/1p-SPEAKER-BOX-TERMINAL-Subwoofer-Boxes-PUSH-IN-CUPS-R2-/00/s/MzAwWDQwMA==/$(KGrHqF,!lUE6CGSHDrsBOm4YTpj9!~~60_35.JPG
Do I take the 16 gauge wire and then connect it to the terminal cup?
What type of wire do I use to connect the cup to the amplifier?
I've already tried 16 gauge from the sub to box and then more 16 gauge from box to amp but no luck. I put my hand next to the sub and I can't tell if it's the stock speaker's bass that's making them slightly vibrate or if its actually the sub. Any help?