So any ideas?Quote:
Originally Posted by lionfamlee
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So any ideas?Quote:
Originally Posted by lionfamlee
Okay I looked at the pics. What year is your vehicle? Is there a (charging wire) wire that goes directly from the alternator to the battery? If so, slip on a ring terminal on one end and slide it onto the bolt where the charging wire connects to the alt. That's the only one you need to wire (as far as the alt to battery). Make sure you fuse this wire. Then all you need to to do is the battery ground to engine chassis and battery ground to vehicle chassis. I have done big 3 upgrades on ford f-150 before. I found some install logs for the big-3 on f-150's. Check them out. You'll need to scroll down a little to see the pics and explanation. I tried to find some logs on this forum, but I could not find anything so I hope I am not breaking rules posting to other forums.
How-To: Big 3 Upgrade (Extremely Pic-Heavy) - Page 4 - F150online Forums
How-To: Big 3 Upgrade - Page 3 - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans
Big 3 Upgrade How To - Ford Truck Club Forum
It's a 1997 4.6l gas. I changed the alt today so i was able to get better look at the wires. theres only one wire coming from the alt BUT this wire doesn't run DIRECTLY to the battery+ it goes to the big fuse that is numbered 2 in the pic i posted. From there it goes to the battery.
I've had two 4.6's, f150 and my current exploder. The big three is easy. I have pics of my explorer. Run alt pos to bat pos. ground the alt to the battery, and ground the battery to the frame.
---------- Post added at 09:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:31 PM ----------
My big 3 is done in 4/0 lol.
Well what do I do with that megafuse the wire is already hooked up to???
Leave the wire that's already there. Just add your new wire directly to the battery. In theory, what it is doing is skipping all the other wiring that the power goes through before getting back to the battery. By leaving your original, you aren't changing anything that is factory so you won't have any problems with the stuff that the power is supposed to go to. Also, it makes it easy to remove later if you need to like when you sell your vehicle or something else.
Ok thats what I'll do. THANK YOU everyone who tried to help me! Your help is GREATLY appreciated.
No problem. Watch the difference in your voltage. It's amazing. Too bad you do not live closer cause I have a lot of 1/0 and 2/0 wire laying around.
For sale?;)Quote:
Originally Posted by lionfamlee
Glad you got some help man. Just for future reference, it's always best to leave factory wiring intact when you can. It helps avoid any problems, and makes it easier to remove the big 3 if need be in the future.
So like they said, just a simple run directly from the positive of the alt, to the pos on the bat, with an ANL fuse between.
Always leave factory wiring.
Let me look in the morning, but I know I have some 1/0 Knu Kolussus, 2/0 Trystar, etc. The only thing is that the Trystar has custom labeling that reads "Michael's Audio Weapon System...I love it :)Quote:
Originally Posted by BNolan12
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...e/IMG_0623.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...e/IMG_0617.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...e/IMG_0622.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...e/IMG_0540.jpg
@ lionfamlee
Looks good. PM shipped prices for each of the wires, maybe we can work something out.
I may also be interested in buying some wire with you. pm me about it if you have some leftover after you settle business with bnolan. I will try to get back to you some times tmro. ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by lionfamlee
I most likely won't be buying it all so I'm sure they'll have some for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by camdogg4570