Re: What's so wrong about mounting amp on sub box?
i support this message.
Originally Posted by pro-rabbit
when given any unknowns, than 100% recomend ever doing it. that's the best answer you could simply give. just don't do it.
Originally Posted by hispls
as mentioned, it does come all down to the specific equipment. yes, it is possible, just like you can mount some amps (even without fans) on the bottom side of your rear deck without any heat build issues, yet the answer will always be that it's not good to do for that reason. one of the most effective factors on the vibration damage, is that 90% of the time, you will not even know that it has happened until sometimes years, and 3 other vehicle/builds later when it fails. if you loose one , or even several power supply fet legs, many amps can continue to operate on the remaining components, with simply lower power, while over-stressing what remains. dry connections on torroids, chokes, inductors, caps, and outboard components are the most hazardous, because there is no real way of telling most of the time, without visual, and sometimes even needing continuity and manipulation to be evident. what they can and sometimes to lead to is the joint bl0wing a hole in the board. i can actually show you pics to this effect, but i have to find links online, or upload when i get home, or overnight, as the connection is not good enough here at the mine. i can tell you this, more than 80% of the amps i repair have said dry connections in them, and some supprise the heck out of me when i really expect to see it. it is one good sign of the average life use of the amp.
Originally Posted by hispls
bottom line, if the amp internals are properly supported to secure any joint flex/stress, if the solder used is of a good grade, if the box is nearly flex-free, and the amp is on a part of the plane that is the most rigid.... IF you can guarantee these things, then i would imagine that it is actually the best place to mount the amp, since the whole car will be vibrating from the box, as is the main goal. i highly doubt most people will be able to guarantee these things, though. as for the rubber feet isea, well, that is half-azzed. it is 100% correct that only putting something that will give between the amp and where it is mounted, will only force the screw/bolt to chafe it's way through the amp feet and what it is mounted to. aside from amp repair in my spare time, i am a heavy truck diesel mechanic. you need to be a vibration master to mitigate damage. i often see wire loom chafe right through the steel or wire/etc that it was put on to protect. you can use a flex/dampening mounting, but it has to flex between the amp and the mounting plane. so, you put the rubber or whatever on both sides of the amp feet and run the screw/bolt through the center. a collar/sleeve in the center for the screw to clamp down solid works real well, and allows more flex in the joint, without having to clamp the rubber super-tight.
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i buy broken amps....
No, i will not "gift" paypal. please do not even make it awkward by asking. if the fees are an issue, I am usually inclined to add them. unless you have discount elsewhere, shipping is through usps flat rate, through usps parcel post, or through the roof..... i am in alaska. thanks