GRahHHHH!!!! *sigh*, help? (video included)

[twothirteen]

Battery keeps draining! - YouTube
The problem: I can't let my truck sit w/o the battery draining overnight. (happening for a year!)

The only connections to my battery are these:
Positive: Alt / Starter.
Negative: Ground to sidewall bare metal where the factory headlight was ground / Engine block, Alt.

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Note: I temporarily removed my headlight and sound equipment wiring for narrowing purposes. I've determined that they made no difference in the batteries electricity leak.
Note: I just installed a brand new starter 2 days ago, I woke up the next day with a dead battery.
Note: My Alternator is a 345A Alt from "Quality Power Alternator", their website says the Alt had a 1 year warranty, so I'm hoping the Alt isn't blown since It would probably be a costly repair. (I wonder, would I be able to drive after re-installing my previous 80A alt?)
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Side possibilities may be causing the battery to drain: Water leaked into my center console & caused some wires to smoke, ever since that time the electric locks haven't been working, pretty disappointing. I occasionally hear the electrical assembly from the rear doors grinding. I cut the wire from the rear left panel, but have thus far been unable to reach/cut the wire under the rear right panel.

Could there be a fuse problem/issue? I am new to screwing around with fuse boxes in vehicles, but I tried to find the fuse to be held responsible for my automatic locks, but have thus far been unsuccessful.

Could I be not getting enough electricity to ground in comparison to the positive electricity that's being put out? I.E. 0g to crappy grounding location, 4g to semi-proper grounding location (engine nut), and 0g to Alt.
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*********************My question is this: Hypothetically if I don't ground my battery with the same amount of wiring as I have being put out from the positive post, will the battery run at normal amperages while driving, then dramatically drain over the course of one night?
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All of this drainage has been happening to an Optima Redtop "34" model #.
I just upgraded to an Optima Yellowtop D31A model. 34P.


I will get my Alternator tested tomorrow to see if it is causing the drain.
If it is not, I have a feeling it could be the locks. Any/all info on how to disable my electric locks on a Oldsmobile Bravada 1994 is much appreciated. (a fuse guide would be ideal)


Facts: While my SUV's driving around I start up at 14.5v, and remain at a constant 13.7~15v for the duration of my ride, Point being, while driving it seems to have enough power and will continuously recharge itself, but after parking and turning off the engine it's likely that I'll have to get a jump just to turn over the engine.


Here's a Youtube link to a video I just recorded to provide you all some context and a 'hands-on' feel.


Battery keeps draining! - YouTube

[KyleBechtold]

not going to read all that shit or watch your movie..

I will however help you out.. to isolate where the issue is disconnect the battery at night.. hook it back up in the morning and try to start.. it might start and die then start up(some computers reset and do this) If it starts fine you have a parasitic loss occurring somewhere

[twothirteen]

not going to read all that shit or watch your movie..

I will however help you out.. to isolate where the issue is disconnect the battery at night.. hook it back up in the morning and try to start.. it might start and die then start up(some computers reset and do this) If it starts fine you have a parasitic loss occurring somewhere

I've tried this approach and have determined it to be a parasitic loss, and I'm now attempting to find where the occurrence is located to remedy the drain. Any advice on locating the parasitic loss?

[KyleBechtold]

I've tried this approach and have determined it to be a parasitic loss, and I'm now attempting to find where the occurrence is located to remedy the drain. Any advice on locating the parasitic loss?

honestly the only way I could think to do this is take all the fuses out except one at night.. each night add one more until the morning you come out and find it doesn't start.. remove fuse and write it down.. continue to do this until all fuses are replaced and all the fuses that cause a problem are written down (take a picture/draw diagram of the fuse box to remember where they all go)

Now then that^ would be the BEST solution to determine all problems but if you don't want to take the time and have an idea of the issue area remove its fuse at night and try to start it in the morning.. if it starts then you found your issue and need to trace the wiring for whatever that fuse was for.. be prepared to completely rewire or do patch work..


the alt should be fine but go ahead and get it tested.. or test yourself with the battery test.. start the car and disconnect the batteries - wire

[twothirteen]

Having all fuses in tact and all power wires touching but no ground wires touching the battery terminal posts, I touched one (the 4g) ground wire to the negative post & my hood light turned on, but not only that -- my doors made that grind noise instantaneously. Wire off, lights off. Wire on, grind noise, lights on. etc etc.

I went through the fuse box and pulled a few inconspicuous fuses, tapped the grounding wire to the negative post again and viola, no grinding noise and the lights turned on. I narrowed it down to one fuse, labeled Power ACC. (this term differs per vehicle, but I just read online that Power ACC was someones blinkers on a motorcycle, hope that's not the case for my Bravada) After pulling the fuse I hooked the battery and wiring all up, installed the wires for my xenon headlights & sound system, and I expect to wake up in the morning with the ability to start my vehicle.... I think I really narrowed it down by getting that fuse pulled. It wasn't blown but removing all power to the circuitry will prevent any of its parasitic loss.

What's your guys' opinions on my grounding point? I still think that it could be much better.

[VWBobby]

Easiest way to track down a parasitic loss is like you're doing through the fuse block, but check for amp draw across the fuse terminals. With the car and all accessories, dome lights, etc off, check Amperage across the terminals. Sometimes voltage will work on circuits you know should be dead, 0 volts. If you find an amp draw, you know something is pulling power from that circuit when "off".

Usually I find its some type of short behind the dash, in the door wires, or a component like a relay or motor failing (wipers, power windows, locks, etc).

[twothirteen]

well my engine started but thats probably due to installing a new yellow top

[twothirteen]

I got the alternator tested earlier and it is running smoothly at 13.7-14.25 volts. I will let my electrical system be for now. It's been an eternity since this old farting machine started up without effort.


...on second thought I'm gonna buy some 0g and add a second power source into the mix. (since I have an extra optima battery laying around) If anybody's interested, I'll be soldering a co-axle speaker's tweeter into place. (my friend accidentally kicked it off) Post if you want pics.