Building a sound system, what do I need?

[BayAreaBimmer]

Hey guys, I've recently picked up two Alpine type-r 1243D's and plan on running them off of a sundown SAX-1200D. I was wondering what else I should get in order for my sound system to run relliably. Should I get a capacitor? An extra/back-up battery? Anything I should get to make it solid and not die on me? Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!

[IonRL205]

Don't need a capacitor. Just do the big 3 and upgrade your main battery if it's a ****** one. That's all you should need for 1200 watts. If your voltage drops though, then put in a 2nd battery, but I think you'll be fine with a good battery and the big 3.

[BayAreaBimmer]

And the big three are subs, an amp, and head unit?

[Kangaroux]

And the big three are subs, an amp, and head unit?

Lol nice try. The Big 3 consists of adding some 0gauge power wire under the hood for your alt -> battery pos, battery neg -> chassis, and battery neg -> engine block. There is a sticky for it under the electrical section IIRC

[IonRL205]

No no, the big 3 is an upgrade you do to your electrical. You upgrade your wire from your battery positive to alternator, engine block to ground, and battery negative to ground. People use 0 gauge wire to do this.

[BayAreaBimmer]

What? Sorry I'm really confused, if I take the subs/amp into a shop will they be able to wire the "Big 3" and do all this stuff properly

[BayAreaBimmer]

No no, the big 3 is an upgrade you do to your electrical. You upgrade your wire from your battery positive to alternator, engine block to ground, and battery negative to ground. People use 0 gauge wire to do this.

Ahhh okay, this makes sense. So will stores be able to do all this wiring and installation for me? If so, how much will it cost?

[Kangaroux]

What? Sorry I'm really confused, if I take the subs/amp into a shop will they be able to wire the "Big 3" and do all this stuff properly

Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

Basically the factory wiring can't support this new power draw from your amps, the big 3 just allows your electrical to become more versatile. I also would suggest installing the equipment yourself, or getting someone local to help you...shops charge a boatload for an install

[IonRL205]

Look at your battery. You'll see a positive cable and a negative cable. The positive cable runs to your alternator. This wire will be upgraded to 0 gauge. The negative cable should run and connect to your chassis. This will also be upgraded to 0 gauge. The wire that's hardest to do is the wire connecting your engine block to the chassis. This is the last that will get upgraded.

[Kangaroux]

Ahhh okay, this makes sense. So will stores be able to do all this wiring and installation for me? If so, how much will it cost?

Most shops don't even know what the big 3 is, partly because they hardly ever do installs that are in excess of 1000w..

Depending on your vehicle you're going to need between 6-10ft of 1/0 to do the install, and some ring terminals. It shouldn't cost you more than $25. If you are running anything over 800w you really should take the time and do it

[BayAreaBimmer]

Look at your battery. You'll see a positive cable and a negative cable. The positive cable runs to your alternator. This wire will be upgraded to 0 gauge. The negative cable should run and connect to your chassis. This will also be upgraded to 0 gauge. The wire that's hardest to do is the wire connecting your engine block to the chassis. This is the last that will get upgraded.

****, so I should definitely do all this wiring stuff before I install the amps/subs? And if I do it myself how hard is the job usually? I feel like doing all that would be a huge pain in the ***...

[keep_hope_alive]

* you also need an enclosure built to spec for the subs - 3/4" MDF or 7-ply wood
* you need a 4 awg or 1/0 amp wiring kit from a name brand
* you want split loom for power wire under the hood, and ideally the entire length for all cables
* a pack of black zip ties and zip tie mounts for securing wires in-place
* a board to mount the amp to and hardware to mount the amp to the vehicle. avoid mounting the amp to the box. the reasons are plentiful, trust me... just avoid it.
* a drill and drill bit for making a hole in the floor for grounding, masking tape for defining an area for sand paper for removing paint, and a bolt sized for the grounding ring terminal. make the hole just big enough to run the bolt through.
* a firewall grommet for passing the power wire through the fire wall - and a drill and drill bit (a hole saw bit or step-bit) for making a hole large enough for the 4 awg or 1/0 grommet
* silicone tube to seal the firewall and ground penetrations to the vehicle to inhibit water ingress and rust
* 4 awg or 1/0 ring terminals for your big 3 - 5/16" for most, but 1/4" for the alt positive
* i prefer to mount my amps and subs with t-nuts and machine screws - most reliable method since you can strip out wood screws
* best way to secure ring terminals to large power wire is with a tabletop butane torch and low melting point solder. otherwise, a vice can crimp the connectors.
* i use heat shrink for everything i can. you can buy kits with various sizes at hardware stores. most is 2:1 so buy it as close to the size you need as possible - this means buy a wide range.

[BayAreaBimmer]

Most shops don't even know what the big 3 is, partly because they hardly ever do installs that are in excess of 1000w..

Depending on your vehicle you're going to need between 6-10ft of 1/0 to do the install, and some ring terminals. It shouldn't cost you more than $25. If you are running anything over 800w you really should take the time and do it

I see, I'll do that. Where can I get this wiring for the best price? How long will it take to do the big 3 wiring? And how long will it take to install the amp/subs myself?

[IonRL205]

****, so I should definitely do all this wiring stuff before I install the amps/subs? And if I do it myself how hard is the job usually? I feel like doing all that would be a huge pain in the ***...

It's really just disconnecting a few wire and putting new ones in. Depending on where your battery/alternator/engine block are, it can be really easy or it can be a PITA. Should be pretty easy though.

And it is good to do, because lacking a good electrical can damage your audio equipment.

[BayAreaBimmer]

* you also need an enclosure built to spec for the subs - 3/4" MDF or 7-ply wood
* you need a 4 awg or 1/0 amp wiring kit from a name brand
* you want split loom for power wire under the hood, and ideally the entire length for all cables
* a pack of black zip ties and zip tie mounts for securing wires in-place
* a board to mount the amp to and hardware to mount the amp to the vehicle. avoid mounting the amp to the box. the reasons are plentiful, trust me... just avoid it.
* a drill and drill bit for making a hole in the floor for grounding, masking tape for defining an area for sand paper for removing paint, and a bolt sized for the grounding ring terminal. make the hole just big enough to run the bolt through.
* a firewall grommet for passing the power wire through the fire wall - and a drill and drill bit (a hole saw bit or step-bit) for making a hole large enough for the 4 awg or 1/0 grommet
* silicone tube to seal the firewall and ground penetrations to the vehicle to inhibit water ingress and rust
* 4 awg or 1/0 ring terminals for your big 3 - 5/16" for most, but 1/4" for the alt positive
* i prefer to mount my amps and subs with t-nuts and machine screws - most reliable method since you can strip out wood screws
* best way to secure ring terminals to large power wire is with a tabletop butane torch and low melting point solder. otherwise, a vice can crimp the connectors.
* i use heat shrink for everything i can. you can buy kits with various sizes at hardware stores. most is 2:1 so buy it as close to the size you need as possible - this means buy a wide range.

This really does not sound like the job for me, how much would it cost to get an amp/subs installed?