I wish I would have known this before buying the cap....lol. I thought I was really getting something good for my system...
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I wish I would have known this before buying the cap....lol. I thought I was really getting something good for my system...
while we're at it - can someone explain to me why exactly caps are bad??
I'm not saying they aren't. I never used one and never will simply based on all the people bashing them, i just don't understand what exactly it does that hurts you. Someting along the lines of "power it stores still comes from sowhere so in reality u're rubbing your...."
They are not bad at all. They simply don't add what the uninformed people claim they add.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vital
But a cap, in no way detracts from the performance, and it most definitely acts as a filter, smoothing out any electrical noise you may have - and this is probably not audible.
The whole subject is a clusterfuck on the net, so good luck being pointed to a reliable source, and there is usually a similar reliable source saying the exact opposite.
Just read as much as you can on the subject, and make your own conclusion. Haven't read about anyone adding a cap and then reporting noticeable reduction in performance.
Might want to look into a battery isolator if you're going to be running two completely different batteries (duralast wetcell and kinetik agm).
Okay, I'm hearing mixed opinions here...some folks are telling me to keep the Cap and get a second battery! They said that the cap will help when that deep bass demands alot of power! as supposed to pulling all of the energy from the alternator....
Are those people telling you to keep the cap members on here?Quote:
Originally Posted by ruck703
Yeah, i have a couple of guys PMing me telling me to keep it and use it....
Big3 > caps
I am running an MBQ dsc at 2ohm (750rms) on a stock 90a alt. Prior to big 3 my lights would dim quite a bit volts were dropping. After doing big 3 in 0ga, at full tilt I never even drop below 13.8v. I myself was somewhat shocked by the effectiveness of it. My car idles at 14.4, so I am only dropping .6v...Now obviously, the power you plan is a completely different issue then my punk asss 750rms, but I am just speaking to the effectiveness of it
Now Imthinking about ordering some cheaper 1/0 gauge and do my whole systek with it instead of buying and expensice kit for just the amp...Quote:
Originally Posted by kr15
If you can avoid it, dont skimp out on wire...it defeats the purpose. Wire can only carry so much current, so when you skimp it, you skimp on the current delivery capability so to speak. Buying cheap 0ga that is really only the size of 4ga does no good..4ga is only rated at 125a at the MOST. Not everyone can afford Kicker and Streetwires etc, but shop around and make sure you can get the best wire possible
Well I was gunna go with Knu 0 gauge kit but that may not even be enough to reach my amp if it wont fit under the seat and now Im thinkin I may have to do the Big 3 too
Knu is pretty good. That is what I used. I liked it...If possible buy the kit and then buy like 12feet or so from this site for the big 3...as a matter of fact, if you measure what you need for big 3 and let me know, I might be able to help you..i have plenty of extra wire
Is the monster cable 1/0 a quality wire, I think it's 400 series ??
Its an F-150 so I may need quite abit for the big 3Quote:
Originally Posted by kr15
Quote:
Originally Posted by kr15
If your amp is really putting out 750 watts, without even factoring in amplifier efficiency, at 14v, 750 watts is 53 amps. add in 20% waste for heat and it's 63.6 amps.
Headlights, and ignition system can easily be 30 amps, bringing the current draw right up to 93..
I'd say you have a pretty good alternator, and some exceptional wiring with virtually no losses. THERE ARE NO AMOUNT OF CAPS that can do that.
which MBQ DCS amp do you have at 750 RMS? --> MB Quart Car Audio -- DISCUS Amplifers