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    tweety_5150's Avatar
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    new battery or HO alternator

    currently i have a MTX Elite te1501d amp witch makes about 1700w rms its pushing 2 kicker l7s and im going to get a kicker 850.4 or a 650.4 amp for the mids and hi's, right now when the bass hits the lights dim like crazy should i get a HO alternator or a battery, if i have to get a battery i was thinking about going with a kinetic but not sure what size i should get, i will be doing the Big 3 withing a week. If it makes any difference i have a 2000 mustang gt conve the stock alt makes 130a.







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    Re: new battery or HO alternator

    Id say get the Big 3 done and go from there, it may help alot.




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    Re: new battery or HO alternator

    how much cable would i need to do the big 3. Can i just connect the wire from the alt to the battery instead of alt to the fuse box then the battery?




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    Re: new battery or HO alternator

    Quote Originally Posted by tweety_5150 View Post
    how much cable would i need to do the big 3. Can i just connect the wire from the alt to the battery instead of alt to the fuse box then the battery?
    Yes you can. It is highly recommended that you fuse this wire though. Don't forget to do your B- to chassis and alt casing to chassis.




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    Re: new battery or HO alternator

    what fuse would i need to run?




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    Re: new battery or HO alternator

    Quote Originally Posted by tweety_5150 View Post
    what fuse would i need to run?
    Depends on the gauge of the wire, you can find the specs on the actual website of the brand wire. But typically, 0/1 you would have to use at minimum 250 amp fuse




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    Re: new battery or HO alternator

    Quote Originally Posted by eCrack.net View Post
    Yes you can. It is highly recommended that you fuse this wire though. Don't forget to do your B- to chassis and alt casing to chassis.
    you really dont have to put a fuse between the + on battery to the alt, but some cars have it fused, some dont. i did a straight run to it and works just find. now i got less dim than before for sure. for the big 3, get at least 12 ft, depending the distant between the bat and the alt, and make sure you get true 1/0 wire. dont get some fake ones. i bought some knukoncepts ultra fleks for at least 3.75 a foot. very but very flexible. and for the terminals, dont crimp it, solder it for a secure fit. i almost forgot, on the big 3, follow the negative cable on the battery, it will lead you to the engine block in most cases. and prefer to upgrade the battery terminal to 2 1/0 gauge terminals. sorry for writing alot, i dont want you to mess up and end up paying a **** load just for replacements.




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    Re: new battery or HO alternator

    thanks for the advice .... i always use KnuKonceptz for my cables its not that expensive...... would it help if i upgraded the battery too




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    Re: new battery or HO alternator

    Quote Originally Posted by carlosg_313 View Post
    you really dont have to put a fuse between the + on battery to the alt, but some cars have it fused, some dont. i did a straight run to it and works just find. now i got less dim than before for sure. for the big 3, get at least 12 ft, depending the distant between the bat and the alt, and make sure you get true 1/0 wire. dont get some fake ones. i bought some knukoncepts ultra fleks for at least 3.75 a foot. very but very flexible. and for the terminals, dont crimp it, solder it for a secure fit. i almost forgot, on the big 3, follow the negative cable on the battery, it will lead you to the engine block in most cases. and prefer to upgrade the battery terminal to 2 1/0 gauge terminals. sorry for writing alot, i dont want you to mess up and end up paying a **** load just for replacements.
    what i did before was goto autozone and got a 2awg battery cable and it worked fine one my 200 amp alternator for the extra cable



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    Re: new battery or HO alternator

    FYI - only an idiot neglects to fuse the alt to battery wire on purpose. it's a fire hazard because the new big 3 wiring is NOT routed to factory specs. factory wiring is routed to the fuse box and yes, it is not fused at the battery. but the routing is well secured and well protected, and along the firewall. the big 3 alt wire is usually around the radiator - not the safest location. also, when you add a wire to the alt terminal, you compromise the factory wire protection.

    if you're adding a wire to the battery, it must be fused as close to the battery terminal as possible. if not, and that wire grounds out, your battery will explode - imagine this happening while driving - you could kill someone.

    here is my alt positive to battery installation of the big 3 in good detail:
    http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthre...page=1&fpart=2



    have you been helped by me? i'd love to know. shoot me a PM.

    *My 2001 Accord build log: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/536049-2001-accord-ex-sedan-its-long.html]
    *2005 Scion tC Build Log: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/516096-2005-scion-tc-sq-hertz-audison-pioneer-build-log.html
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