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    have a sub and amp, help me!

    my brother has a roadmaster(?) 10 inch sub sorta tube like thing in his room, so i took it. and my other brother gave me one of his old 300-watt amps. it's nothin special, but i want to try hooking it up and seeing what will happen. the sub and amp are both in the trunk of my 95 taurus right now, but i have no wiring, and i don't know what i need to install it, and i'm not sure exactly how to install it. i sorta have a drift of what to do....







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    I'll start by mentioning that these instructions are for people with aftermarket Head Units. Most factory (OEM) Head units don't have pre-outs and so you'll have to use the high-level inputs on the amplifier (if it has them). To do this just connect your rear speaker channels to the High-level inputs, I will warn you though that you will suffer SQ loss using this method. The method mentioned below is the IDEAL way to hook it all up.

    First check to make sure that your head unit has subwoofer pre-outs or that the amplifier has a low-pass x-over. This is very important as you don't want mid to high range frequencies runing through your subwoofer

    Now you'll need:

    about 20 - 25 feet of 10ga power wire
    about 18 inches of 10ga ground wire
    15 - 20 feet 20ga remote wire
    15 - 20 feet RCA cables (not needed if you are using High-level inputs)
    3 feet of 14ga speaker wire.
    25 amp fuse holder and fuse.


    All of this is NORMALLY (but not always) included in an amplifier installation kit, which you should be able to pick up for $20-$50.

    NOW

    1. Position the equipment where you want it to be in trunk

    2. Run the power wire from where the battery is to the positive terminal on the amp (usually labeled 12V or BAT), but DO NOT connect the power wire to the battery. You may have to frill a hole in your firewall to run this wire

    3. Connect the ground wire to the GND terminal on the amplifier and to a bolt that attaches to teh body/frame of the vehicle (this point must be clean - no paint, rust or anything else that might restrict the flow of current)

    4. Run the remote wire from the (light) blue wire on your Head Unit (HU) to the remote (also known as turn-on) terminal on the amplifier

    5. Run the RCA's from you HU pre-outs (subwoofer pre-outs if you have them) to the inputs on the amplifier

    6. Connect the Sub to the amplifier using the speaker wire, making sure to match + to + and - to -

    7. Connect the fuse holder to the battery and to the power wire

    8. Install the fuse

    If the fuse didn't blow congratulations you have now properly installed the amplifer and subwoofer. If the fuse blows when you install it, double check your wiring conections and that your power wire isn't touching ground (check the whole length as there may be a cut in the wire that is touching ground). Once the fuse can be installed without it being blown you now have to set the gain on the amplifier.

    The method I describe below is the do-it-your-self way of setting the gains, the proper way involves an oscilloscope (which 90% of us don't have)

    To set gains:

    1. turn the Gain control ALL THE WAY DOWN to MIN (highest input voltage).

    2. Start with the HU at 0 volume and slowly turn it up untill you just begin to hear distortion (with subwoofers you may have to stand 10 - 15 feet away from the vehicle to hear when it starts to distort), Then back the volume off a bit (just untill the distortion is gone). Now leave the volume at this level for the next part

    3. slowly turn the gain on the amplifier up until you start to hear distortion, then back it off a bit (ditto)

    Your gains are now properly set. Remember the volume at which you left the HU, as this will be the MAX undistorted volume you can play your system at.

    ENJOY your system



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    1986 Chevy S-10 http://s10.trainzhaven.com
    2002 Pontiac Sunfire Website not created yet.

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    sixstringmadman's Avatar
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    i have an aftermarket HU. i put it in myself, bought it from crutchfield. i know where the pre-outs, and how to run them to my trunk. thanks for the reply, i'll come back if something confuses me. i think i'm just going to order a wiring kit from crutchfield as well. they seem to have everything you said all in one package for a low price. your instructions are good, i'll see how this works out.
    Last edited by sixstringmadman; 03-16-2003 at 09:28 PM.




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    ok, a couple things i'm noticing....on the back of my sub, it has a + and - input, but on the amp, theres 2+ and 2-, one for r.ch and one for l.ch. and what's bridging? and crossover? and is a 40 amp fuse ok? they have a package with 8 gauge wiring and a 40 amp fuse meant for 300w amps...
    Last edited by sixstringmadman; 03-16-2003 at 09:55 PM.




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    The fuse up by the battery is to prtect the power wire and your car. If teh wiring kit comes with a 40 Amp fuse, then it should be fine.

    Bridging the amp:

    Not all amplifiers are bridgable. Look at the speaker conections on the amplifier and see if there is anything like a second set of markings (usually it says bridged with arrows/lines pointing to one terminal on each channel, sometimes there is a cicrle around the two connections needed to bridge the amp, and yet on other amps there is a switch). I would actually recommend checking the manual for the amplifier, if you don't have the manual you can usually download it at the manufacturers website.

    When you find out which connections are used in bridging, just hook the sub up to those connections (actually I completely missed that you would prob have to bridge the amp).

    hope all this helps.


    A x-over (crossover) is a device in car audio that "tunes-out" frequencies that you don't want. Many amplifiers have one built in, and most "decent" Head units have a subwoofer-pre-out (which has a buillt-in x-over). It is very-extremely recommended you use a x-over with subwoofers but not 100% needed. Once again check the manuals.



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    1986 Chevy S-10 http://s10.trainzhaven.com
    2002 Pontiac Sunfire Website not created yet.

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    heres the back of my HU. i don't see this light blue terminal you are talking about. i have the wire and fuse all ready, not connected to the battery yet though. and i'm about to do the ground wire, but i came inside to upload this picture, so you guys can help me with it. i bought monster cables and such.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails have a sub and amp, help me!-huback.jpg  




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    sixstringmadman's Avatar
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    and how am i going to feed these to my trunk? my seats don't flip down or anything, i don't know how to get the wires back there. and i have 18gauge speaker wire, is that fine?
    Last edited by sixstringmadman; 03-17-2003 at 12:40 PM.




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    I've never wired a trunksystem.

    In your picture I can see the blue wire that you need, this wire should label rem or remote.

    To get the wires intothe trunk, you may have to drill a hole beside/behind the seat.



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    1986 Chevy S-10 http://s10.trainzhaven.com
    2002 Pontiac Sunfire Website not created yet.

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    i figured it out. i took a plastic piece that was holding the seatbelt out, and ran it through there, then simply replaced it. that took care of the wires. ok, then i found that blue wire i needed for the remote, and i did that too. but the 10" ******, it distorted, so i'm checkin out my friends 2 12" MTXs he wants to sell me. they ROCK. i just need the money to pay for them

    i should probably hide all those wires under the carpeting or something...




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    With my system going from the hu to the trunk I just went under the trim panels. Then when I was in my trunk went under the carpet. I mounted my box on had my 2 amps drilled on the box and then cut small holes right beside the box. Rand the wires up from there and used these things, I have no idea what there called, they have nails on both sides of it and stick out almost liek this [ so i could fit the wire under the opening. THen rand the wire up the box to the input on the amp. Looks really nice and clean that way!



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