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    Icon32 Magnet degrade signal when speaker wire close?

    I'm trying to figure out the best way to parallel my DVCs but the speaker wire will be pretty close (if not touching) the magnet.. Will that degrade the signal running on the wire? If so, how do I go about getting both +s together when they are on opposite sides of the woofer? I'd really rather not have a lot of wire hanging all over to try and keep it from being by the magnet (and I didn't order enough speaker wire to be wasting very much of it)..

    If it won't matter (being close to the magnet), has anyone got any innovative ideas as to how to get the wire in both binding posts (since my wire is not small enough to double up in one).. I was thinking about one piece between both posts, then bare a small spot in the middle and solder the main lead to that (but not sure the best way to seal it, would that small of a gap need to be sealed as long as the + and - were significantly spaced so they won't touch?)?

    TIA..




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    Re: Magnet degrade signal when speaker wire close?

    Originally posted by Savant
    I'm trying to figure out the best way to parallel my DVCs but the speaker wire will be pretty close (if not touching) the magnet.. Will that degrade the signal running on the wire? If so, how do I go about getting both +s together when they are on opposite sides of the woofer? I'd really rather not have a lot of wire hanging all over to try and keep it from being by the magnet (and I didn't order enough speaker wire to be wasting very much of it)..

    If it won't matter (being close to the magnet), has anyone got any innovative ideas as to how to get the wire in both binding posts (since my wire is not small enough to double up in one).. I was thinking about one piece between both posts, then bare a small spot in the middle and solder the main lead to that (but not sure the best way to seal it, would that small of a gap need to be sealed as long as the + and - were significantly spaced so they won't touch?)?

    TIA..
    No it should not matter much if it is near the magnet..... yes you canstrip a small piece in the center and solder the connection together.... NO I would never leave an exposed joint regardless of how small....Either use some wire tape over it or spend the extra few bucks and get some heat shrink tubing to put over it and then seal the connection.



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    long time no see, alaxan..



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    Well I am back in action over here.......Have been hanging out somewhere else a bit and will still be there regular since I am a mod there.....but will be here much more now.



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    Re: Re: Magnet degrade signal when speaker wire close?

    Originally posted by Alaxan
    No it should not matter much if it is near the magnet..... yes you canstrip a small piece in the center and solder the connection together.... NO I would never leave an exposed joint regardless of how small....Either use some wire tape over it or spend the extra few bucks and get some heat shrink tubing to put over it and then seal the connection.
    If I silicone caulk the begeezus out of the joints.. will that be ok? I just finished making all the parallel wires stuff and attaching it to the terminal caps.. I was planing on siliconing it.. wouldn't that be better than tape since tape will open up over time?




    (1) Alpine CDA 7892 HU ($214)
    (2) 12" Pioneer Premier 1241DVCs in sealed MDF box (gonna glass them eventually) ($69 each)
    ->removing.. ->(2) 10" Pioneer Premier 1041DVC's in sealed MDF box (gonna glass them eventually) ($59 each)
    (2) Lanzar Vibe248 1200 watt 2 chnl amps ($119 each)

    It's bump'n GOOD!


    You can lead a horse to water but you can't make a moron understand...

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    Wire tape opens up after time? Not really unless your talkin like many years and it may get some wear.... silicon? Is this a loose joint hanging inside of the enclosure? Are you going to slicon it to the side wall or something? I guess you could use silicon if it is simply hanging, however I would solder the joint together first and make sure to give that giant glob enough time to dry well.....otherwise you may jus be ****ed when the blob falls off and shorts out and you end up with a blown sub or amp....



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    nonononononon.... all the joints are well soldered.. .. they won't break apart anytime soon.. As for tape opening up.. all the electrical tape I've ever used has had the outermost closer spot start peeling back (though, that is mostly in crappy radio installs in the dash).. I was figuring that silicone won't come off once it's dried (provided there is on stress on where the goop is)..

    I guess my question is, are there any negative aspects to using silicone as a way to 'generate a cover' like would be made with tape...




    (1) Alpine CDA 7892 HU ($214)
    (2) 12" Pioneer Premier 1241DVCs in sealed MDF box (gonna glass them eventually) ($69 each)
    ->removing.. ->(2) 10" Pioneer Premier 1041DVC's in sealed MDF box (gonna glass them eventually) ($59 each)
    (2) Lanzar Vibe248 1200 watt 2 chnl amps ($119 each)

    It's bump'n GOOD!


    You can lead a horse to water but you can't make a moron understand...

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    negative aspects...I can only think of three...

    1. it looks messy ( but if it's inside and not visible, then who cares?)

    2. hard to remove later

    3. The chemicals inside the silicone might corrode the metal basket, if not 100% dried.

    4. need about 24hours to dry

    ah, 4 things...



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    Originally posted by paikiah
    negative aspects...I can only think of three...

    1. it looks messy ( but if it's inside and not visible, then who cares?)

    2. hard to remove later

    3. The chemicals inside the silicone might corrode the metal basket, if not 100% dried.

    4. need about 24hours to dry

    ah, 4 things...
    Sweet None of those 4 issues are an issue for me

    I'll get the joints caulked up when I get home.. let it dry a good bit.. I won't be removing the caulk from the joint anytime soon.. even when I go to full glass boxes and the terminal cups come out of the MDF and get moved to the glass, the inside (of the enclosure) stuff should be able to be the same.. if not, I'll just make new ones rather than try to fix what's there.. speaker wire is cheap ..... And since this is inside sealed MDF for now, and will be in sealed fiberglass later, looks isn't an issue either.. The only think I can think of would be the chem factor.. but I'll let this stuff dry very well before it goes near the basket

    Thanks guys




    (1) Alpine CDA 7892 HU ($214)
    (2) 12" Pioneer Premier 1241DVCs in sealed MDF box (gonna glass them eventually) ($69 each)
    ->removing.. ->(2) 10" Pioneer Premier 1041DVC's in sealed MDF box (gonna glass them eventually) ($59 each)
    (2) Lanzar Vibe248 1200 watt 2 chnl amps ($119 each)

    It's bump'n GOOD!


    You can lead a horse to water but you can't make a moron understand...

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    paikiah's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Savant
    Sweet None of those 4 issues are an issue for me

    I'll get the joints caulked up when I get home.. let it dry a good bit.. I won't be removing the caulk from the joint anytime soon.. even when I go to full glass boxes and the terminal cups come out of the MDF and get moved to the glass, the inside (of the enclosure) stuff should be able to be the same.. if not, I'll just make new ones rather than try to fix what's there.. speaker wire is cheap ..... And since this is inside sealed MDF for now, and will be in sealed fiberglass later, looks isn't an issue either.. The only think I can think of would be the chem factor.. but I'll let this stuff dry very well before it goes near the basket

    Thanks guys
    Oh, a hint of advice when working with silicone...

    if you want to "shape" the silicone before leaving it to dry, lick your fingers and wet it with saliva(i know, but it works) and shape it...that way, the silicone won't stick onto your fingers and you can shape it like plasticine...

    water doesn't work, saliva does... I saw glass specialists always doing this, and it's really effective...



    Team Caraudio

    Sony C90, 210 EQ
    Seas 27TDF/C, RE XXX 6.5, custom xo (dyn 240GT sitting idle)
    RF 60.2 amp
    eD A15.22
    Soundstream picasso 1400.1D

    Bass drive-by's are uncool.

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