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Reload Thread: Just a Little important Fact that many of you may not know

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    Just a Little important Fact that many of you may not know

    Very few amplifiers/speakers on the market are over/under rated.

    If Brand X claims that their amplifier can put out 800 watts, then it can.

    What many people don't realize is how manufacturers get these numbers.

    Now say I own a big Car audio Manufacturing Company (I don't but this is just to help prove this fact). If I desparately need to sell my amplifier, that normally puts out say 600watts max, how would I go about it.

    Well I could say that it puts out more wattage than it really does @ 14.4VDC, but wait, no I can't advertising regulations prohibit it (at least in Canada/USA they do).

    So I get to thinking "what if I could make my amp put out this higher wattage? Well then I could advertise it as a higher wattage amp. Now, how do I do this?

    I know I'll run it at a HIGHER VOLTAGE. No, that won't work, I'llburn out the amp. Wait!!! What if I FREEZE it, say, with DRY ICE?

    The Unit would remain at a much lower temperature, so it could run longer at the higher voltage and not burn out (plus everyone knows higher voltage = higher output).

    Using this method I get the amp running at 24V stable and discover that my 600watt amp can put out over 1000 watts. I can now advertise this amp as a 1000 watt amp, and sell it either at a higher price, or at the same price and get more sales."


    You see I couldn't be acused of false advertising because the amplifier can put out 1000 watts. But what the people buying the amp don't know is that it only puts out the high power at high voltage levels.

    This technique can also be used for speakers/subs. If you freeze the motor assembly (Voice coil, Magnet, & Spider), you could run the speaker at a very high wattage, much higher than at roomer temperature. This is because when you OVERPOWER a speaker the main reason it fails is the voice coil gets burnt out


    Many, many companies have gotten away with this. Some of the well known, not necessarily liked, brands that do this are Pyramid, Sony Xplod, AudioVox, and pretty well anything Radio Shack carries. These amps aren't really overrated, just no-one can run them at the 24Volts without them burning up.

    Basically go out and get a pyramid amplifier and run it exactly the same way pyramid did when they tested it. You will find that it meets their quoted specs.

    Companies like JL, RF, PG, Alpine, Pioneer, and most other TOP NAME BRANDS will give you specs based on either 12Volts or 14.4 Volts, as this is what the equipment will be run with most of the time ( I say most because they are extremists out there that run amps at 18 volts). Thus giving you a more realistic nuber to expect for output.







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    this post was totally useless to all of us. we all realized that amps put out there rated power, even if it's for less than a second before going up in flames.

    PS - could you show a picture of someone running 18v off their car battery? im not saying it's impossible, just very very unlikely for 2 reasons. one, car batteries are designed to run at 12v, but can usually throw out around 12.9, up to 14.4. two, you would need some heavy duty cooling on your amps to throw 18v into them. basically, it would be a complete waste of money and any "extremist" would realize this and spend his money elsewhere.




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    Look it up in the june 2000 CA&E.

    He has 6Volt batteries wired in a series-parallel fashion to give the 18V.

    It is possible. Just not off the vehicles main battery.

    You can get converters custom made to run any voltage you want. They are very expensive.

    And as for this post being completely useless. If you think so, then don't bother with it. I'm sure many people out there didn't know this little fact that explains why so many "high ouput" amplifiers never deliver what the manufacturer said it could.

    Don't call down info that could possibly be helpful to someone else. If this info is useless then so id every post asking how to wire DVC subs. Everyone knows you should power both coils.




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    RangerMan's Avatar
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    I'm not going into this again...put it this way...if you plug any amp into the wall, it's going to put out a **** load of power...it may be for 1/100000000 of a second, but if it does put out that much, then the company is allowed to put 50000 watts on their amp...



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    my 12 volt stock batt. puts out almost 15 volts so it is possiple




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    Originally posted by RangerMan
    I'm not going into this again...put it this way...if you plug any amp into the wall, it's going to put out a **** load of power...it may be for 1/100000000 of a second, but if it does put out that much, then the company is allowed to put 50000 watts on their amp...
    True, then you cant be sommened for false advertising

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    well there is no way for a stock 12v battery to put out more than 12v......that is the max charge that the batt will hold....




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    Most amplifiers (including the fabled pyramid units) power supplies cannot take a 18V load. In fact, hooking a 18V line up to your car is going to get you a quick trip to the dealer. How are you going to explain to them you surged the entire CPU system in your vehicle though.

    It isn't the matter of the core temperature of the amp that is the situation, your entire theory is completely off base, because sending 24V to a power supply is going to kill the internal circuity, likely the fets are going to die from a voltage rail higher than they are capable of taking. And this is before you manage to get back and hit play to send it a signal!

    Hook your house amp that runs at 120V to 240V once and see what it does, you are doing the exact same thing to that poor amplifier.

    As for freezing the coil of a driver, not a chance.

    You have to cool the entire driver down, which then stiffens up the spider and surround and will promote mechanical failure. Add on to that the fact that the coil heats up so fast that you couldn't keep its core cold, what good did you do other than making the basket chilly?

    While it sounds great to make a manufacturer out to have some sort of conspiracy going on, the fact is that there is no governing body for the retail of automotive audio products, so the little things like output power, lies solely in the hands of the builder.
    Last edited by jlaine; 11-09-2002 at 10:43 PM.




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    Josh, would you happen to have any transistors for a 1200.1?



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    Originally posted by RangerMan
    Josh, would you happen to have any transistors for a 1200.1?
    I can get them easily enough RangerMan, can you still read the number on the case of the FET?




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    Originally posted by jlaine
    I can get them easily enough RangerMan, can you still read the number on the case of the FET?
    It's at work...I'll get back too you on that one. Do you have an estimate on cost for one??? I appreciate it!



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    Originally posted by RangerMan
    It's at work...I'll get back too you on that one. Do you have an estimate on cost for one??? I appreciate it!
    Expect them to be around 3~5 dollars each..




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    Originally posted by jlaine
    Expect them to be around 3~5 dollars each..
    Awesome...which is the FET?



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    Re: Just a Little important Fact that many of you may not know

    Originally posted by CarAudioAddict


    This technique can also be used for speakers/subs. If you freeze the motor assembly (Voice coil, Magnet, & Spider), you could run the speaker at a very high wattage, much higher than at roomer temperature. This is because when you OVERPOWER a speaker the main reason it fails is the voice coil gets burnt out.
    On a side note, the spider is not part of the motor... it is the second component to the suspension and holds no bearing on the thermal handling of the coil.




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