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Reload Thread: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    I bought 20" of 1/0 from knu, 1/0 inline w/ 250A fuse and also the 1/0 ring terminals. When i go to do the installation on my i come to find out the ring termials dont fit on (-) battery, the positive one is ok cause i bought a multi imput batt terminal. Should i juss drill the hole bigger so it can fit over the (-) post?



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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    I have a 94 accord and I just bought a new alternator about a year ago, its 120 amps I believe. All my stock wires for the big 3 are 4 guage, except one which is 8guage. I am running 4 guage all the way from my battery to my cap, then to my amps.

    Ive got 4 guage ground also. The amp that is powering my L5s is a Hifonics BX1605D (1600 RMS). With the car running and air conditioner off when a good bass note hits my voltage according to my cap drops down to the low 12s.

    Any advice?



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  3. #108
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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    Anyone done the Big 3 for a Grand Am. I have a 2000 grand am and i took a look and it looks like its gonna be pretty difficult if i do it by mysef. And i don't have the money to get a shop to do it. Anyone have any suggestions for the grand am?



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  4. #109
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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by AK SloPok View Post
    This seams so simple yet my mind will not allow me to figure it out.

    I have an 05 Chevy Silverado PU. Yes it has a frame... the question is, do I run from the block to the body, or to the frame? In a unibody car your frame/chassis/body is the same thing. Would running from block to body and block to chassis be required or suggested?

    On a related note. When grounding amps, should I ground to the body, or to the frame?

    Thanks for any info...

    Chad
    Find out where the battery negative is connected first. If it's on the body (which I doubt on that truck), then ground to the body. If its on the frame, ground to the grame. Big 3 and the amps.

    Quote Originally Posted by DjiNN View Post
    specs are in my sig .. thought people would know .. anyway .. think 100A fuse is enough for the system in my sig?
    Totally dependent on what wire you have. If it were my system, I would run 4awg with a 150A fuse.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jared530 View Post
    I bought 20" of 1/0 from knu, 1/0 inline w/ 250A fuse and also the 1/0 ring terminals. When i go to do the installation on my i come to find out the ring termials dont fit on (-) battery, the positive one is ok cause i bought a multi imput batt terminal. Should i juss drill the hole bigger so it can fit over the (-) post?
    Yes, just be careful to clamp the crimp into something before you start the drillin.

    Quote Originally Posted by aaron7114 View Post
    I have a 94 accord and I just bought a new alternator about a year ago, its 120 amps I believe. All my stock wires for the big 3 are 4 guage, except one which is 8guage. I am running 4 guage all the way from my battery to my cap, then to my amps.

    Ive got 4 guage ground also. The amp that is powering my L5s is a Hifonics BX1605D (1600 RMS). With the car running and air conditioner off when a good bass note hits my voltage according to my cap drops down to the low 12s.

    Any advice?
    First off.. Ditch the capacitor. Next Upgrade! The Big 3 goes to 1/0awg. Start thinking about a battery better than stock. Finally, set your gains correctly using the gain setting tutorial in the amplifier forum.




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  5. #110
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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by seg_representin View Post
    Anyone done the Big 3 for a Grand Am. I have a 2000 grand am and i took a look and it looks like its gonna be pretty difficult if i do it by mysef. And i don't have the money to get a shop to do it. Anyone have any suggestions for the grand am?
    Unless you have some kind of freaky alternator.. I don't see how this is a difficult install.
    Connect the dots. Alternator + to Battery +, Battery - to Chassis, Chassis to engine block.

    Don't replace the stock wire, just add to it.




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  6. #111
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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    First off.. Ditch the capacitor. Next Upgrade! The Big 3 goes to 1/0awg. Start thinking about a battery better than stock. Finally, set your gains correctly using the gain setting tutorial in the amplifier forum.
    The cap isn't hurting anything is it? I have set my gains properly already. So you think I just need to do the big 3 in 0 guage and get a bigger battery?



    Headunit:
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    Kicker 6 1/2" door speakers
    Four 3 1/2" Kicker Speakers in the sub wall
    Subs:
    Two 2006 15" Kicker L7s
    Amps:
    Kicker KX120.2 for Mids and Highs
    Kicker KX2500.1 for Subs
    Box:
    8 Cube wall tuned to 50 hz for comp and 36 hz for daily.
    150.4 db @ 47 hz on TL with 3 day old subs. Done a 156.8 since then on Audiocontrol
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  7. #112
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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    THANKS for teh info here... ITS AMAZING . I love u guys... I just never gave anyone thanks for the knowledge...



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  8. #113
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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by aaron7114 View Post
    The cap isn't hurting anything is it? I have set my gains properly already. So you think I just need to do the big 3 in 0 guage and get a bigger battery?

    Actually the cap is hurting you. Its just another item for your faultering alternator to charge. and at this point, thats the last thing you need.




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  9. #114
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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    Just finished the big 3 in my 95 skylark. I ended up buying pre-made 2 guage duralast wire from auto-zone, and it works great. I saw a lot of sparks and smoke because I'm a *******, and nothing is going to change that. My question is though, wouldn't this work better if it just went from battery (-) to chassis, and then another battery (-) to engine block? If anything, it would provide the same results, theoretically, correct? That's actually the way I have it set up right now, and depending on the answer I get, I will decide whether or not it is worth the time to switch it around or not





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  10. #115
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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    I have the same grounding system that you have disturbed




  11. #116
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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by disturbedfuel15 View Post
    Just finished the big 3 in my 95 skylark. I ended up buying pre-made 2 guage duralast wire from auto-zone, and it works great.
    How much did the 2 guage wire at auto-zone cost? Anyone else confirm that this wire will work?



    Headunit:
    JVC AVX2 (3.5" Screen)
    Mids and Highs:
    Kicker 6 1/2" door speakers
    Four 3 1/2" Kicker Speakers in the sub wall
    Subs:
    Two 2006 15" Kicker L7s
    Amps:
    Kicker KX120.2 for Mids and Highs
    Kicker KX2500.1 for Subs
    Box:
    8 Cube wall tuned to 50 hz for comp and 36 hz for daily.
    150.4 db @ 47 hz on TL with 3 day old subs. Done a 156.8 since then on Audiocontrol
    Refs: 1 Hugh Jass, k4rts, vitveet, pioneerpimp, Colt9699, caligirl2k

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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    First,

    John, you are a saint. Thank you for taking the time to post this thread... even tho it was a FEW months ago... lol... but also THANK YOU for coming back in periodically and answering some of the questions.

    Second:
    My proffessor always liked the Fire hose vs. Garden Hose theory. You CAN move all the required water from the larger hose through the smaller hose but it will take more time and if you push too hard you will destroy the smaller hose. Using the same size garden hose, add additional hoses until there is no restriction for the fire hose. Ta-da... you are taking advantage of all the source (firehose/alternator) can put out.

    In essence, speaking about electricity, the least resistance you have for electrons to freely move the more you will be able to take advantage of your power source. Use the largest wire you can, it is not that much more expensive, leave the original wire (additional hoses theory) and for GOD's sake make sure your connections are clean and free of paint, rust, etc. Just thought this was a VERY IMPORTANT part that John stated and was worth re-stating.
    That's just my two bits... hope this shines a light on something (not sure what-- hoses???)



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  13. #118
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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by disturbedfuel15 View Post
    Just finished the big 3 in my 95 skylark. I ended up buying pre-made 2 guage duralast wire from auto-zone, and it works great. I saw a lot of sparks and smoke because I'm a *******, and nothing is going to change that. My question is though, wouldn't this work better if it just went from battery (-) to chassis, and then another battery (-) to engine block? If anything, it would provide the same results, theoretically, correct? That's actually the way I have it set up right now, and depending on the answer I get, I will decide whether or not it is worth the time to switch it around or not
    First off... The tutorial states you need to disconnect the battery. If you didn't and smoked some stuff well

    Your method of grounding is fine. Generally people don't do that just to keep cable length down.

    Quote Originally Posted by aaron7114 View Post
    How much did the 2 guage wire at auto-zone cost? Anyone else confirm that this wire will work?
    Wire is wire buddy. Autozone wire is made out of the same stuff kicker wire is made out of.

    Quote Originally Posted by reneeb7363 View Post
    First,

    John, you are a saint. Thank you for taking the time to post this thread... even tho it was a FEW months ago... lol... but also THANK YOU for coming back in periodically and answering some of the questions.




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  14. #119
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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by johnecon2001 View Post
    First off... The tutorial states you need to disconnect the battery. If you didn't and smoked some stuff well
    I realize this I disconnected my battery. The part that really made sparks start flying was reattaching the ground wire to the battery. I almost ****ed up my battery terminal from the sparks and electricity. At one point or another, you are going to have to complete the circuit, there's really no way around this, am I not right?





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  15. #120
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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    Sure, eventually you have to complete the circuit. But it shouldn't spark if you do it right.

    Step one is to smear battery gel on the terminals (anti-corrosion, anti-flammable). Step two is to connect the negative LAST.




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