*sigh*
I miss my accord. That car was kind to me.
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*sigh*
I miss my accord. That car was kind to me.
SOLID cars... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by johnecon2001
See my last postQuote:
Originally Posted by da12b
Okay I need some feed back because I have sum parts and a lot of money... Im am about to redo my whole system I will be running (2) Earthquake 5000 watt amps, (2) Concept Amps for my highs, crossover, maxxbass, and 300 watt sony amp for my tweeters, all this will be in my 2000 Dodge Stratus I already have two batteries one up under the hood and one in the trunk... I need to kno everything I need to do to keep my system at 14.7 or more volts like I said dont worry about money just tell me the idea's and what I need
multiple big 3 wires, dual alternators, several batteries, many runs of 0 gauge.
okay I can do many runs of 0 gauge but ion know where I could but another alternator I only have room for one and that's the one up under the hood and I know I have to get a high output alternator what else do I need and I know I might need 3 batteries the one up under the hood plus two in the trunk... but what exactly is the big 3
Did you read this thread that you are posting in?
PUNCTUATE pleasse I cant tell what the **** ur asking :DQuote:
Originally Posted by SouthRuninIt
So what is all the items called? so i can search online and buy it .. or go to a B&M to buy it .. and does it matter which company makes the product?
Its just wire and crimp rings and a fuse holder. Get it any car audio shop.
Just wanted to say I love this thread, even though the Big 3 still hasn't helped me...
I have an '89 Acura Legend and I'm trying to run my meager system (200W MTX amp pushing one 10" sub) but my amp has been cutting out/turning off. The car has a 70A alternator, and the battery is good. I didn't think anything was wrong with the alternator, seeing as I just got it replaced in May of this year after the last one died after 5+ years of use.
So, I considered getting a capacitor, but after coming to this site I found that it might not be the best thing to do, and decided to do the Big 3. Cost me about $50-$60 getting the necessary tools described in this thread, and I used 1/0 gauge wire. Hooked everything up, and still had problems with my amp cutting off.
I go to Autozone and Advance Auto and get my battery/alternator checked, and everything seems good, except for the fact that my alternator seems to be outputting only 4.8 - 10A. Holy crap, I don't see how my car is even running... or charging my battery. I'm going to go back to the place that put in the alternator, hopefully they will do something about it.
Anyway, just thought I would share my story. This site (and especially this thread) rocks. Lots of helpful ppl here.
I'm open to any suggestions.
Posted in your other thread, but at this point you just need a new alt.
I got a fuse holder that has a 100A fuse inside .. is this enough for my system or should i replace it with 250A and .. does it matter what kind of 1/0 wires i get (company wise). Does one company make it better than the other?
With out telling us your system specs, it's pretty hard to determine whether or not that 100A's is good enough.
And wire is wire. Some companies will have thicker 1/0awg than others, but its still all copper.
This seams so simple yet my mind will not allow me to figure it out.
I have an 05 Chevy Silverado PU. Yes it has a frame... the question is, do I run from the block to the body, or to the frame? In a unibody car your frame/chassis/body is the same thing. Would running from block to body and block to chassis be required or suggested?
On a related note. When grounding amps, should I ground to the body, or to the frame?
Thanks for any info...
Chad
specs are in my sig .. thought people would know .. anyway .. think 100A fuse is enough for the system in my sig?