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Reload Thread: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by jco1385 View Post
    i found my big 3 pics while going thru ****. maybe they help someone...


    Neg Battery > Chassis =

    Pos Battery > pos alt + neg battery > engine =
    maybe these can help. if not, meh....



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    MTX 404 runs the inside
    MTX 1501d runs the X
    Optima G75/25 RT up front
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    200a EA HO Alt (1/0 Big 3)
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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    I seriously just read this entire thread. I think half of the posts are someone asking if they should replace or add to their existing wires. Anyway, I am going to attempt to do this, thanks for the info.




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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    This is confusing enough with a car that has a hidden alt. And I need an inline fuse as well? I fuse between Battery and alt? I plan on running 2ga wire to replace the 8ga. Stock alt is 83 I think.




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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    I was just reading another thread (might have been solo-baric's thread) and I was wondering why don't the auto makers just run a larger wire? Just cost reasons? Or do they feel the wire they have on there is good enough?



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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Pl8er View Post
    I was just reading another thread (might have been solo-baric's thread) and I was wondering why don't the auto makers just run a larger wire? Just cost reasons? Or do they feel the wire they have on there is good enough?
    Battery/Ground in mine is very small, 12awg or so Should've at least did 8awg.




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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Pl8er View Post
    I was just reading another thread (might have been solo-baric's thread) and I was wondering why don't the auto makers just run a larger wire? Just cost reasons? Or do they feel the wire they have on there is good enough?
    the wire they have IS good enough....




    just not for high current amps and such



    Auto: 96 honda passport 3.2L v6 4X4 5sp
    Big 3 pics--THE MAV--THE RSD's--MY VLX
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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    holy **** I just sat down and read all 36 pages in one shot just for shits and giggles.

    CA.com has some dumb *** mother ****ers on it.

    I knew exactly what /how to do this from the first frigging post. with OUT any pictures.

    several people have just been repeating **** non stop I think the mods need to erase all the bullshit and just keep the informative info.

    I plan on doing the big 3 as follows.

    Buy new bat. terms from Knukonceptz


    buy ANL fuse holder with a 250amp fuse
    MEASURE and buy 1/0 welding wire and lugs from local welding supply house

    from my + terminal on my battery run 1/0 wire with fuse to the POS alt LEAVING existing wire attached.

    from my - battery terminal to my FRAME

    from my FRAME to any engine bolt thats easy to get to. less wire the better

    this whole process should take less than 30 minutes.
    and if need be I will take pictures although some one else took 3 GREAT photo of each cable already.

    -=jason=-




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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    why no battery neg to engine? i'd do that and skip the chassis to engine.



    1994 Thunderbird
    JVC KD-AV7010
    Alpine 6x9 3-ways
    Pioneer 6x8 3-ways (rear)
    JVC CH-X1500 12-disc MP3 Changer
    Alpine Type X 12" 2 cubes @ 30hz
    MTX 404 runs the inside
    MTX 1501d runs the X
    Optima G75/25 RT up front
    2x Optima G31 YT in the trunk
    200a EA HO Alt (1/0 Big 3)
    ALL MY WIRE IS WELDING CABLE
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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by jco1385 View Post
    why no battery neg to engine? i'd do that and skip the chassis to engine.
    from what an electrician (who quit and opened his own car audio shop) told me, that would defeat the purpose. Think of it like this: You have a box. Coming INTO the box, you have a water hose that for this example, puts a gallon every 10 seconds into the box. Going OUT of this box, you have a 4 inch pipe cable of pulling a gallon a second out of the box. Do you think that with a water hose going in and 4 inch pipe going out that you're going to be able to pull a gallon a second out of that box? Of course not. you can only pull what's being put in. LIKEWISE, you can only pull the current from a battery that you have going into it. If your battery is grounded to chassis/frame with zero gauge wire and you run another zero gauge wire from engine to Neg. battery terminal, you're defeating the purpose of running that wire off the engine because you're only going to be able to pull a 0 gauge's worth of current in stead of two 0 gauges worth. As someone has stated on here, electricity running DC runs from ground to positive. So the more ground you have, the better so by grounding the engine out to the chassis and the battery to the chassis, you are giving them both their own bit of current.

    Now before someone jumps on me and says i'm retarded, simply think about what I said. It makes perfect sense to me and if you can think critically and know an electrician, it should make sense to you too. That's my two cents




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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by SlickNick View Post
    from what an electrician (who quit and opened his own car audio shop) told me, that would defeat the purpose. Think of it like this: You have a box. Coming INTO the box, you have a water hose that for this example, puts a gallon every 10 seconds into the box. Going OUT of this box, you have a 4 inch pipe cable of pulling a gallon a second out of the box. Do you think that with a water hose going in and 4 inch pipe going out that you're going to be able to pull a gallon a second out of that box? Of course not. you can only pull what's being put in. LIKEWISE, you can only pull the current from a battery that you have going into it. If your battery is grounded to chassis/frame with zero gauge wire and you run another zero gauge wire from engine to Neg. battery terminal, you're defeating the purpose of running that wire off the engine because you're only going to be able to pull a 0 gauge's worth of current in stead of two 0 gauges worth. As someone has stated on here, electricity running DC runs from ground to positive. So the more ground you have, the better so by grounding the engine out to the chassis and the battery to the chassis, you are giving them both their own bit of current.

    Now before someone jumps on me and says i'm retarded, simply think about what I said. It makes perfect sense to me and if you can think critically and know an electrician, it should make sense to you too. That's my two cents
    um.......no


    the purpose of the engine ground is for the alt. not the battery. if you don't ground the motor, then the alt does not get the upgrade like the rest of the circuit.


    edit: you have to think of the entire circuit...



    Auto: 96 honda passport 3.2L v6 4X4 5sp
    Big 3 pics--THE MAV--THE RSD's--MY VLX
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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by dman4486 View Post
    um.......no


    the purpose of the engine ground is for the alt. not the battery. if you don't ground the motor, then the alt does not get the upgrade like the rest of the circuit.


    edit: you have to think of the entire circuit...
    I never said it was to ground out the battery...I said it needed its own ground like you said, to ground out the alternator.




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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by SlickNick View Post
    from what an electrician (who quit and opened his own car audio shop) told me, that would defeat the purpose. Think of it like this: You have a box. Coming INTO the box, you have a water hose that for this example, puts a gallon every 10 seconds into the box. Going OUT of this box, you have a 4 inch pipe cable of pulling a gallon a second out of the box. Do you think that with a water hose going in and 4 inch pipe going out that you're going to be able to pull a gallon a second out of that box? Of course not. you can only pull what's being put in. LIKEWISE, you can only pull the current from a battery that you have going into it. If your battery is grounded to chassis/frame with zero gauge wire and you run another zero gauge wire from engine to Neg. battery terminal, you're defeating the purpose of running that wire off the engine because you're only going to be able to pull a 0 gauge's worth of current in stead of two 0 gauges worth. As someone has stated on here, electricity running DC runs from ground to positive. So the more ground you have, the better so by grounding the engine out to the chassis and the battery to the chassis, you are giving them both their own bit of current.

    Now before someone jumps on me and says i'm retarded, simply think about what I said. It makes perfect sense to me and if you can think critically and know an electrician, it should make sense to you too. That's my two cents
    wat...??

    by going from chassis to engine you pick up the resistance of the chassis (may be very low but still there...) by going battery to engine you do not.

    i read about 2 sentences of that essay you got BTW.



    1994 Thunderbird
    JVC KD-AV7010
    Alpine 6x9 3-ways
    Pioneer 6x8 3-ways (rear)
    JVC CH-X1500 12-disc MP3 Changer
    Alpine Type X 12" 2 cubes @ 30hz
    MTX 404 runs the inside
    MTX 1501d runs the X
    Optima G75/25 RT up front
    2x Optima G31 YT in the trunk
    200a EA HO Alt (1/0 Big 3)
    ALL MY WIRE IS WELDING CABLE
    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Drama View Post
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rashaddd View Post
    We're all feggots on the inside
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    I am sure the administration will be having a few words with you when they catch wind of your language.
    DO NOT SEND ME ANYTHING USING UPS. I WILL NOT DEAL WITH THEM EVER AGAIN
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    Icon7 Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by jco1385 View Post
    wat...??

    by going from chassis to engine you pick up the resistance of the chassis (may be very low but still there...) by going battery to engine you do not.

    i read about 2 sentences of that essay you got BTW.
    read the whole thing and you'll understand a little better. it depends on where you run the engine to chassis. there may be there may not be.




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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by jco1385 View Post
    maybe these can help. if not, meh....
    wut kinda terminals are thoze? pretty slick!




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    Re: Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by SlickNick View Post
    read the whole thing and you'll understand a little better. it depends on where you run the engine to chassis. there may be there may not be.
    meh...

    Quote Originally Posted by d_man1 View Post
    wut kinda terminals are thoze? pretty slick!
    IIRC they are welding lugs. pops got them from work. they hold up to 4/0 i think



    1994 Thunderbird
    JVC KD-AV7010
    Alpine 6x9 3-ways
    Pioneer 6x8 3-ways (rear)
    JVC CH-X1500 12-disc MP3 Changer
    Alpine Type X 12" 2 cubes @ 30hz
    MTX 404 runs the inside
    MTX 1501d runs the X
    Optima G75/25 RT up front
    2x Optima G31 YT in the trunk
    200a EA HO Alt (1/0 Big 3)
    ALL MY WIRE IS WELDING CABLE
    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Drama View Post
    I always knew I was a feggot.
    Quote Originally Posted by Rashaddd View Post
    We're all feggots on the inside
    Quote Originally Posted by ToledoTom View Post
    I am sure the administration will be having a few words with you when they catch wind of your language.
    DO NOT SEND ME ANYTHING USING UPS. I WILL NOT DEAL WITH THEM EVER AGAIN
    OFFICIAL FEEDBACK THREAD

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