expert jcologist
1994 Thunderbird
JVC KD-AV7010
Alpine 6x9 3-ways
Pioneer 6x8 3-ways (rear)
JVC CH-X1500 12-disc MP3 Changer
Alpine Type X 12" 2 cubes @ 30hz
MTX 404 runs the inside
MTX 1501d runs the X
Optima G75/25 RT up front
2x Optima G31 YT in the trunk
200a EA HO Alt (1/0 Big 3)
ALL MY WIRE IS WELDING CABLE
Originally Posted by Johnny Drama
We're all feggots on the insideDO NOT SEND ME ANYTHING USING UPS. I WILL NOT DEAL WITH THEM EVER AGAIN
OFFICIAL FEEDBACK THREAD
CarAudio.com Veteran
Would doing this with 4 gauge wire be a waste of time?
I am going to be running about 1100-1200 watts total
References
Bought from: bpres9991, connersdad19, bad @SS chevy, XaznKewLguyX, WrenchGuy, thur5d4yf4n, Weeznur32, CRXBMPN, vttec, blazinb2000, IamMurph
Traded with: SPY, oldschool4me, DB_DRAG_SPL
Sold to: gotdale?, silvercookie, gkoz316
Head Unit: JVC HDR1
Speaker amp: Kicker 150.1
Comps: Rainbow SLC 6.5s
Amp: Diamond D3 800.1
Sub: 15" FI SSD with copper coils
Wiring: Kicker 0 gauge
Box: 33 hz ported
I am Omega
I used 4g and it seems fine.. I had a crap load of 4g laying around and no 1/0, so 4g had to do
Current Project, Chevy S-10:
Pioneer DEH-P2900MP, Sub Amp: Planet Audio BB1250.1, Sub's: 2x SA-12's, Box: 5.5 cubes tuned @ 32hz, Alpine SPR-17S door speakers, Infinity Kappa 693.9i rear speakers
More coming soon!
"Believe those who are seeking the truth; doubt those who find it."
CarAudio.com Veteran
Ok I think ill use 4 gauge.
Are the pics broken in the OP for everyone or is it just a problem on mine? They would have been very helpful
References
Bought from: bpres9991, connersdad19, bad @SS chevy, XaznKewLguyX, WrenchGuy, thur5d4yf4n, Weeznur32, CRXBMPN, vttec, blazinb2000, IamMurph
Traded with: SPY, oldschool4me, DB_DRAG_SPL
Sold to: gotdale?, silvercookie, gkoz316
Head Unit: JVC HDR1
Speaker amp: Kicker 150.1
Comps: Rainbow SLC 6.5s
Amp: Diamond D3 800.1
Sub: 15" FI SSD with copper coils
Wiring: Kicker 0 gauge
Box: 33 hz ported
Team Ramrod
Doing the big 3 today..
Refs: straightchillin, bad @ss chevy, Echo42987, dye4metal, nate2587, ThomasG, nismos14, AK SloPok
Team Ramrod
EDIT... repost
Refs: straightchillin, bad @ss chevy, Echo42987, dye4metal, nate2587, ThomasG, nismos14, AK SloPok
Senior VIP Member
is it necessay to fuse between the batt positive and the alternator positive? becaus ei was doing stuff to my car with my grandpa and he has been a mechanic his entire life and stopped me from doing my big three cause i didnt have a fuse and said i might fry my alt?
opinions wanted
expert jcologist
no fuse needed. some do, some don't. isn't "required"
1994 Thunderbird
JVC KD-AV7010
Alpine 6x9 3-ways
Pioneer 6x8 3-ways (rear)
JVC CH-X1500 12-disc MP3 Changer
Alpine Type X 12" 2 cubes @ 30hz
MTX 404 runs the inside
MTX 1501d runs the X
Optima G75/25 RT up front
2x Optima G31 YT in the trunk
200a EA HO Alt (1/0 Big 3)
ALL MY WIRE IS WELDING CABLE
We're all feggots on the insideDO NOT SEND ME ANYTHING USING UPS. I WILL NOT DEAL WITH THEM EVER AGAIN
OFFICIAL FEEDBACK THREAD
Senior VIP Member
is there a large risk in not fusing or is it like a once in a couple thousand thing for somthing bad to happen from not fusing?
expert jcologist
not much risk at all. seems like a fuse would cause resistance between the alt and battery
btw, mine isn't fused and zero problems. and i have a HO alt
1994 Thunderbird
JVC KD-AV7010
Alpine 6x9 3-ways
Pioneer 6x8 3-ways (rear)
JVC CH-X1500 12-disc MP3 Changer
Alpine Type X 12" 2 cubes @ 30hz
MTX 404 runs the inside
MTX 1501d runs the X
Optima G75/25 RT up front
2x Optima G31 YT in the trunk
200a EA HO Alt (1/0 Big 3)
ALL MY WIRE IS WELDING CABLE
We're all feggots on the insideDO NOT SEND ME ANYTHING USING UPS. I WILL NOT DEAL WITH THEM EVER AGAIN
OFFICIAL FEEDBACK THREAD
Senior VIP Member
aight i appreciate th einput im gonna do my big three today!
Incriminator Audio FTW
hmm, maybe i should get rid of my fuse on my alt to bat
2005 Acura RSX-S
Headunit: JVC KD-AR8500
Front Stage: Vifa & Mpyre 65M *ACTIVE*
System Amp: MB Quart DSC4125
Wiring: Kicker Hyperflex
Deadening: Edead SE2 and V3
Refs:
Bought from: mlstrass, archie, brchd, BigOso, bk12321, Ricky 616, IonSQL, SilverSPL, VIPER118, fived, jdiddy, Tacosys, ls2poweredgoat, SethPhillips, DB_DRAG_SPL, bjfish11, XaznKewLguy, Integra2468, Incriminator, bur1196, Goindef154, amartin_72
Sold to: vitveet, aesoj, DejaWiz, jco1385, Lax916, iowaaurora, Zeuslicious, chrispizzitola, gkatmar, Racerx250, boltpride, zeed, Low_e_Red, xreymax, hrtbrk1, RKPsk8er, Anniku989, bradknob, andrios
Member
Okay, i understand most of this, but what im wondering.. is why you would need a wire between the engine block and chassis....
there is no current between the two right?? so why is it needed...
or am i being an a moron begginer??
Member
There is a wire between the engine block and chassis, you are upgrading all your wires to a bigger ga. so the electrical current has the same flow. Think of it as a water pipe. If you have a 2 in. pipe flowing into a 1 in. pipe, the rate of flow is cut in half. I hope this helps.
Check these sites out...it is a good reference.
http://www.bcae1.com/
http://www.termpro.com/articles/articles.html#How
Ride: 1998 Honda Accord EX Coupe
HU: Alpine DVA-9681
Epicenter (in dash)
Aphex Processer by Kove Audio
Capacitor: 1 Frad Rockford Fosgate (monitor top)
Amp: MTX 405 (5-ch.)
Front: Boston Acoustics Pro60
Rear: Boston Acoustics SX95
Sub: 1 (one) Eclipse SW8122DVC (12 in. sub)
Added the "BIG 3"
Load Boss Alternator (180 Amps)
One HC1400 Kinetik Battery (using as main battery)
Paid to Post
the alternator grounds to the block, but the battery grounds to the frame/chassis. There needs to be a strong link between the two
Auto: 96 honda passport 3.2L v6 4X4 5sp
Big 3 pics--THE MAV--THE RSD's--MY VLX
Rices Creek Pics
Refs: Sold to; lilmaniac2, alexdbest2000, jshak07 Bought from; CJL
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