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    Icon14 Sub Setup: Too big for car?

    Basically, I've had 2, 15 inch PG Titaniums in the back of my 92 civic LX for about six months now. Running them off a RF1001bd, and have them mounted in a sealed box, with 1.5cf per chamber. A buddy of mine bought one of the JL 10W7's in the factory JL ported box a couple months ago for his neon. Hes running one of those new P-model RF 4 channel amps (basically a newer version of the 851x I'm running to my highs) which when bridged on half the amp. puts about 400 solid watts to his W7. Basically put, his single 10W7 knocks the living hell out of his neon, going far and beyond anything close to what I've ever been able to get out of my 2 15's. I called the local shop, (Sound Gallery) told them about the problem of my 15's generally not performing well at all,(no punch, muddy, etc) and recieved the following feedback:

    A: 2 15's are too big a sub for a small car like my civic. Due to the massive amount of cone space, in such a small area, sound cancelation between the 2 15's against the same soundstage hampers performance horendously. (Suggested I look into a couple 10's).

    B: Charging system is not adequate to push good perfomance from the equipment in general. (Suggested the addition of an extra battery in the trunk would make quite a noticible difference in sound levels, considering my current setup, stating that a bat would supply more of the "Raw Power" needed for punchy, tight bass response)

    C: Although the RF 1001 bd puts out a solid 500 watts per sub, The PG Ti's with their 650rms rating simply arnt getting the needed power to allow them to perform, not to mention the fact that putting them in a ported box could gain me as much a +3dec. per sub.

    So basically, I've come to the conclusion that I'm going to start looking into another smaller sub setup for the civic. Like I mentioned earlier, I was absolutely blown away by the performance of my buddies 10W7, with it's JL port job.I was wondering if anyone would have any suggestions on a pair of 10's that would be able to hold a candle to W7 performance for a little less moolah. My buddy paid about $600 for the 10W7, with box. All suggestions appreciated! Thanx!


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    Re: Sub Setup: Too big for car?

    that alt will not be happy with you.

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    Re: Sub Setup: Too big for car?

    Quote Originally Posted by gymway
    A: 2 15's are too big a sub for a small car like my civic. Due to the massive amount of cone space, in such a small area, sound cancelation between the 2 15's against the same soundstage hampers performance horendously. (Suggested I look into a couple 10's)
    Does that sound rediculous to anyone else?


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    Re: Sub Setup: Too big for car?

    you'll get cancellation in any car.



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    Re: Sub Setup: Too big for car?

    those 15's should out bump his car anyday. your problem (i think) is your boxes are WAY too small for not enough power. if you knew, power handeling increases with the size of the box decreases (and vice versa)

    i think if you built a custom box, ported and sized to spec... one of those things should at least match his 10w7.

    500w is enough to get them bumpin, arent they like 600RMS?

    i think that you shuldnt have a problem if you build the right box TBH. are you sure you have them wired correctly?




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    Re: Sub Setup: Too big for car?

    yea im with Req. somethings wrong. check phasing. if thats all good and dandy, then i think your gettin a **** load of cancelation. there is no way he will outbump you with 1 10" w7 like you say he did without something being wrong in your setup.



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    Re: Sub Setup: Too big for car?

    Check your wiring as has been mentioned, and if everything's done correctly then I say build a properly sized ported box for a single 15 and see how she sounds. You should descimate (sp?) his setup with even a single 15, those aren't bad subs.



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    Re: Sub Setup: Too big for car?

    PG Titanium = 650 RMS. According to the manual, a 1.5 cubic foot sealed box is within a 1/2 inch either direction of recommended SPL and SQ sealed measurements(being . Of course, you have to consider how much of that space is being displaced by the sub baskets). People keep telling me a stronger charging
    system DOES have the ability to make major diffrences in sound. After all, Equipment is only as good as the amount of amperage you charging sytem is giving it right? Surprisingly, the addition of the 1F cap for the BD virtually eliminated light dimage except for when pushed to extreme levels. By the way, those rear audiobahns are a component set. I bridged them when I bridged the front CDT's and the bahn's sounded like ****. I switched them back to 4 ohm stereo, and left the fronts bridged to maintain some sound prescence up front. Also, I have the deck levels set at +1 at 12.5k for highs, lows flat, at 80h, with the base Q factor at 2. I do have the gain on the BD set all the way down. (Should be recieving 4 volts from the EQ).




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    Re: Sub Setup: Too big for car?

    Get a new alt. I had that amp and my small apline and I was getting lots of dimming, even after the ground upgrades everywhere. I have a 99 civic, and you could always make a bigger box with lots of port area and tune low.



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    Re: Sub Setup: Too big for car?

    Quote Originally Posted by btnhfan
    Get a new alt. I had that amp and my small apline and I was getting lots of dimming, even after the ground upgrades everywhere. I have a 99 civic, and you could always make a bigger box with lots of port area and tune low.

    why does he need a alternator? He said he has slim to no dimming. No need in dumping 100's in a alternator. I have a power bd 1000.1 same amp and a power 750x running and my lights barley dim on a honda accord, at 90% volume.

    Fact is you are not going to get that "loud" with a sealed box. Been there done that. Your amp is plenty big and strong enought to push those pg's. If you have it running at 2 ohms it will produce 500-550 watts rms to each channel or 1100 watts bridged. You need to make sure the subs are presenting the rf with a 2 ohm load.

    You might get better results with 1 15 ported. And you will have cancelation but it is worse in smaller cars like your civic. Have you tried to seal up your trunk and face the subs to the front of your car?

    oh I see you only have a 60-70 amp alternator.... hmmm it is kinda small.



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    Icon14 Re: Sub Setup: Too big for car?

    I like that last post..more towards what I was thinking anyway. I talked to my audiophile buddy tonight. Seems to think I might be able to keep the setup if I get the right box. Possibly make a ported box for 1 sub(which will probably be as big as the sealed box housing both the 15's) done right? (2x, 1.5cf box)? Anyone agree? If so, I'll be looking for a good blueprint to build of of (manuals are quite sparice, and only give basic diminsions for sealed enclosures). I'm sure someone on this forum can point me in the right direction? Thanx again!

    PS.... Buddy also suggested wiring and mounting the subs to a "push pull" , meaning I'd lose some efficiency, but make the subs think they are wired into a box twice their actual size? Any comments?




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    Re: Sub Setup: Too big for car?

    By the way, about the alternator... I'm just making an educated guess when I say 60-70 amp output. It's a 92 civic LX sedan, with AC, so theres a possibility the alt might be a little more heavy duty from factory because of the AC option?I don't have the actual specs, but I can say, as before, That with the 1F cap for the BD, the only time I get even close substantial light dimage is when it's cranked, and even then it's not terrible. :P




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