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    Alpine Type "R"

    Hello All,

    Really appreciate all of the information available in this forum and have been setting up purchases based on many of the threads. I have a 2009 Dodge Ram and after driving my son's car (not factory audio) I realized I needed to upgrade my factory stereo. I can only get away with so much at a time (being married with children), so I am starting with an amp and subwoofer addition to the factory audio and will go from there (eventually plan on all new speakers and head unit). I love music (all genres sans "country" or "western" and have no interest in letting other people hear what I am listening to. That being said, hearing AWOL Nation's "Sail" in my son's car sounded REALLY good.

    I have purchased a Fox DQC-212-V box (2-12" VENTED SUB BOX, AIR VOLUME: 1.55 CUBIC FEET PER SIDE, DIVIDED: YES, PORT/VENT TUNE FREQUENCY: 35 Hz, MAX FRAME SIZE: 13", MOUNTING HOLE SIZE: 11.125", MOUNTING DEPTH: 7.25" WITH A 6.5" DIAMETER MAGNET). I have read everything I could find on the topic and have discussed the options with Mr. Fox and it appears as if the 12" Alpine Type "R" is the way to go (12" subwoofer with dual 4 or 2-ohm voice coils, Kevlar reinforced pulp cone with HAMRS Santoprene rubber surround, frequency response: 24-200 Hz, power handling: 300-1,000 watts RMS (500 watts per coil), peak power: 3,000 watts, sensitivity: 84.7 dB, top-mount, depth: 6-3/8", sealed box volume: 0.75-1.00 cu. ft., ported box volume: 1.25-1.50 cu. ft.). Moreover, I am inclined based on suggestion to go with the JL Audio HD1200 amp ( mono subwoofer amplifer 1,200 watts RMS x 1 (rated power from 1.5 to 4 ohms), variable high- and low-pass filter (50-500 Hz 12 or 24dB/octave), switchable subsonic filter (30 Hz) and output polarity control, Single Cycle Control Class D amplifier design, 10-13/16"W x 2"H x 8-13/16"D) and hear good things about this combination in this box with my truck.

    My questions for those of you who have more experience and knowledge than I (which is basically everyone who reads this) is; 1) high / low converter to use the stock head unit versus a digital audio output option, 2) 2 ohm versus 4 ohm option on the Type "R" with this or a similar amp, 3) opinions on the set up I am looking toward?

    Appreciate advice, feedback, warnings, etc. ~ and extend thanks in advance for your effort!







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    Re: Alpine Type "R"

    if your running only 1 sub, get the 2ohm version, it can be wired down to 1 ohm. Also I'd save that money and invest it in a good head unit rather than H/L converters.



    Clip city b1tch, clip clip city b1tch. 10's, 12's, 15's, goin up in flames b1tch.
    2009 Sienna 3.5L Subs : C2 threatcon 15s. Sub amp: hifonics brx 2400.1D x 2
    Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS bought used from vertex audio Mids/Highs amp: PPI Phantom 900.4 - bought from dragnix
    Front stage: 3 way active front stage with Massive Audio CKX 6x9 component. ckx 6x9 midbass in doors + DB drive pro audio 6.5 in the kick. Rear stage: Jbl ms62C(Its a van I need rear fill). Still NOT ENOUGH! SEND HELP!! 4 Pro Audio 10s in the future
    320 amp Singer alt almost installed. Just a group 31 deka in the back atm with big 3 finished.

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    Re: Alpine Type "R"

    How does the high / low sound? And doing two subs




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    Re: Alpine Type "R"

    Missed the "forgo" the switch part ~ it will be a while before I can get away with the new head unit




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    Re: Alpine Type "R"

    If you get a decent converter then it would sound fine but there's some people that run into noise interference issues when using convertors.

    With two subs, you'd want two 4 ohm subs so you can wire them parallel down to 1 ohm.



    Clip city b1tch, clip clip city b1tch. 10's, 12's, 15's, goin up in flames b1tch.
    2009 Sienna 3.5L Subs : C2 threatcon 15s. Sub amp: hifonics brx 2400.1D x 2
    Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS bought used from vertex audio Mids/Highs amp: PPI Phantom 900.4 - bought from dragnix
    Front stage: 3 way active front stage with Massive Audio CKX 6x9 component. ckx 6x9 midbass in doors + DB drive pro audio 6.5 in the kick. Rear stage: Jbl ms62C(Its a van I need rear fill). Still NOT ENOUGH! SEND HELP!! 4 Pro Audio 10s in the future
    320 amp Singer alt almost installed. Just a group 31 deka in the back atm with big 3 finished.

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    Re: Alpine Type "R"

    the converter is alright but a aftermarket makes it sound better in my opinion. had a pac L 1 I think. it was alright




    08 Nissan Altima 2.5S
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    Re: Alpine Type "R"

    Thanks again for the advice gents, I went with a PIONEER AVH-X5500BHS instead of working on the converter.




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    Re: Alpine Type "R"

    the alpine sub is awesome. i have 2 of em along with pioneer avh p8400



    Front stage- HAT Imagine i61-2 for midrange and Rainbow Cal 25 Silk Tweeters for highs
    Rear Stage- Factory Premium Speakers
    HU- Pioneer AVH-x8500
    Sub stage- 12" SSA XCON D2
    Sub amp- Crescendo BC2000
    Mid/High amp- Crescendo Concerto C1100.4
    Electrical- big 3, Optima Yellowtop
    NVX Sound deadener and Sealed doors
    Acoustic Sound Foam behind Front Mids

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    Re: Alpine Type "R"

    That amp is rated at 1200 rms from 1.5-4 ohm so I wouldn't recommend running it at 1 ohm unless you really have to.
    I would go with the dual 4 ohm version and run them at a final load of 4 ohm. This way if you decide to change amps in the future or sell the subs they will be able to wire down to 1 ohm together. Just what I would do



    Car: Chevy Cobalt Coupe
    Front Stage: Mids: Aura rpm 4", Midbass: Four Aura NS6's
    Rear Fill: Pioneer 6x9s
    Amps: 2 Rockford Fosgate T400-4's, and a T1500-1BDCP
    Electrical: Stock 140amp alt, Big 3, and a SHURiKEN SK-BT100
    Winter sub setup: Kicker F12a IB mounted from rear deck
    In the works: Diamond D9 12

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