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    Re: New speaker guidance (Fi Q's)

    Quote Originally Posted by jigsISF View Post
    Is there a way I can add a digital meter so I can know what my resting voltage is at every start up? Where would I hook that meter up to? I think I can manage the battery and the 1/0 wire. How would I charge the battery every week if I do hammer hard at any given time?
    You can get stinger meter on ebay and wire it through the amps positive, negative, remote terminal or you can get a stinger cigarette lighter meter. When you charge the batteries it's most likely going to be the rear, make sure to disconnect the front first and mount the rear batt where it would be easily accessible.



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    Re: New speaker guidance (Fi Q's)

    Thanks guys for all the input. I have ordered 2 12" Fi Q's, the 1/0 gauge wires (for rear battery run, amp run, and big three) and the stinger meter so far. I will be ordering the yellow top battery and amp next paycheck (most likely sundown 2500). Will keep yall updated!


    Oh and can I just get any battery recharger from like auto zone or is there one you guys recommend?




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    Re: New speaker guidance (Fi Q's)

    I use a $40 Schumacher charger and it has a setting for AGM and deep cycle batteries. Schumacher SC-1200A SpeedCharge 12/8/2 Amp Charger/Maintainer/Starter/Tester : Amazon.com : Automotive



    B16 SE-R

  4. #19
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    Re: New speaker guidance (Fi Q's)

    Ha, I'm doing a small SQ system. I am going to install everything but not even attempt to run it loud until I get a H/O alternator. There's no way my car will handle it. Hell, I turn my steering wheel and my dang lights dim a little. Even though I have 2 xp750 batteries, I don't think they'll help. Sure, they may prevent the dimming, but the alternator will slowly kill itself and the batteries. I had a dB drive okur a7 2000.1 amp hooked up to my old car. Tried to hook a huge d31 battery up, did the big three upgrade and everything. Voltage was dipping like crazy. Was not dimming anything, but it was horrible. Ended up buying an excessive amperage alternator for that buick, didn't have any voltage drop less than 14.4 Anything above 1,000 watt, I'd get a H/O alternator.

    What my advice for you is, Follow these guy's ideas. Do a trail and error. See if you really need to do it. Although you probably would; it would be highly recommended that you do get a secondary battery, do the big three upgrade and get a nice H/O alternator. Trust me, you don't want to be buying all these nice subs and amplifiers and damage them because it's not getting enough voltage...or damage anything in your car. P.S. Adding a sound system in your car will void your warranty on some parts of the vehicle. (Not trying to scare you or anything, but I asked my dealership that and he said if anything was caused because of improper installation, it will void out the warranty and the repairs would have to come directly out of my pocket)




  5. #20
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    Re: New speaker guidance (Fi Q's)

    Quote Originally Posted by jigsISF View Post
    Thanks guys for all the input. I have ordered 2 12" Fi Q's, the 1/0 gauge wires (for rear battery run, amp run, and big three) and the stinger meter so far. I will be ordering the yellow top battery and amp next paycheck (most likely sundown 2500). Will keep yall updated!


    Oh and can I just get any battery recharger from like auto zone or is there one you guys recommend?
    Try to avoid yellow tops.



    2014 Ford Fusion
    All stock everything.

  6. #21
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    Re: New speaker guidance (Fi Q's)

    Quote Originally Posted by carshateme View Post
    Ha, I'm doing a small SQ system. I am going to install everything but not even attempt to run it loud until I get a H/O alternator. There's no way my car will handle it. Hell, I turn my steering wheel and my dang lights dim a little. Even though I have 2 xp750 batteries, I don't think they'll help. Sure, they may prevent the dimming, but the alternator will slowly kill itself and the batteries. I had a dB drive okur a7 2000.1 amp hooked up to my old car. Tried to hook a huge d31 battery up, did the big three upgrade and everything. Voltage was dipping like crazy. Was not dimming anything, but it was horrible. Ended up buying an excessive amperage alternator for that buick, didn't have any voltage drop less than 14.4 Anything above 1,000 watt, I'd get a H/O alternator.

    What my advice for you is, Follow these guy's ideas. Do a trail and error. See if you really need to do it. Although you probably would; it would be highly recommended that you do get a secondary battery, do the big three upgrade and get a nice H/O alternator. Trust me, you don't want to be buying all these nice subs and amplifiers and damage them because it's not getting enough voltage...or damage anything in your car. P.S. Adding a sound system in your car will void your warranty on some parts of the vehicle. (Not trying to scare you or anything, but I asked my dealership that and he said if anything was caused because of improper installation, it will void out the warranty and the repairs would have to come directly out of my pocket)
    Thanks for the heads up, my lex is already out of warranty so not worried about that but I will be hooking up the Stinger meter asap to get an idea of what my voltage is reading and go from there. Solid advice though thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by DDtC View Post
    Try to avoid yellow tops.
    Why is that I have only heard good things about them? What do you recommend?




  7. #22
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    Re: New speaker guidance (Fi Q's)

    Quote Originally Posted by jigsISF View Post
    Thanks for the heads up, my lex is already out of warranty so not worried about that but I will be hooking up the Stinger meter asap to get an idea of what my voltage is reading and go from there. Solid advice though thanks!



    Why is that I have only heard good things about them? What do you recommend?
    Heard good things from who? You won't hear it on here. They are old tech and since production moved to Mexico they are not the same.



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  8. #23
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    Re: New speaker guidance (Fi Q's)

    so much misinformation ITT.




  9. #24
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    Re: New speaker guidance (Fi Q's)

    Quote Originally Posted by DDtC View Post
    Heard good things from who? You won't hear it on here. They are old tech and since production moved to Mexico they are not the same.
    Do you recommend a good starting battery that's built "properly" that will handle 1500-2000W, and has good cold crank?



    2012 Scion TC // 20% tint
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    Rear: Alpine Type R Component
    Sub: Audioque HDC 312 (@1ohm)
    High Amp: Nakamichi KA-504
    Sub Amp: Audioque 2200.1D
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  10. #25
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    Re: New speaker guidance (Fi Q's)

    Quote Originally Posted by clickclickw00t View Post
    Do you recommend a good starting battery that's built "properly" that will handle 1500-2000W, and has good cold crank?
    The one battery I will ever recommend is XS.



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  11. #26
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    Re: New speaker guidance (Fi Q's)

    Quote Originally Posted by DDtC View Post
    The one battery I will ever recommend is XS.
    So if I replace my stock front battery with a comparable XS model + 1500RMS I should be fine to run system in my sig? I usually get about 14V when I first start it up and I bumps down to about 13.6 with no music, 13.2 on full tilt, and RARELY 12.8 when I'm pushing it HARD and not driving around. I don't have much light dimming but I want to give my AQ2200 full power without putting another battery in my trunk



    2012 Scion TC // 20% tint
    HU: Pioneer MVH-P4400BH
    Front: Focal 165KF Mid, Stock 3.5 inch, Stock 1inch Tweeter.
    Rear: Alpine Type R Component
    Sub: Audioque HDC 312 (@1ohm)
    High Amp: Nakamichi KA-504
    Sub Amp: Audioque 2200.1D
    Deadened doors and trunk
    Stinger Volt-meter
    Decaf All Day

  12. #27
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    Re: New speaker guidance (Fi Q's)

    Quote Originally Posted by clickclickw00t View Post
    So if I replace my stock front battery with a comparable XS model + 1500RMS I should be fine to run system in my sig? I usually get about 14V when I first start it up and I bumps down to about 13.6 with no music, 13.2 on full tilt, and RARELY 12.8 when I'm pushing it HARD and not driving around. I don't have much light dimming but I want to give my AQ2200 full power without putting another battery in my trunk
    No. A battery will keep you in the 12s not 13s or 14s.



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  13. #28
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    Re: New speaker guidance (Fi Q's)

    Quote Originally Posted by DDtC View Post
    No. A battery will keep you in the 12s not 13s or 14s.
    Right, I need a new alternator for that. What I'm trying to say is, will it raise my voltage EVEN the littlest bit. I see we both have Scions. I've tried looking into an alternator for my 2012 but no one makes a H/O one.



    2012 Scion TC // 20% tint
    HU: Pioneer MVH-P4400BH
    Front: Focal 165KF Mid, Stock 3.5 inch, Stock 1inch Tweeter.
    Rear: Alpine Type R Component
    Sub: Audioque HDC 312 (@1ohm)
    High Amp: Nakamichi KA-504
    Sub Amp: Audioque 2200.1D
    Deadened doors and trunk
    Stinger Volt-meter
    Decaf All Day

  14. #29
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    Re: New speaker guidance (Fi Q's)

    Quote Originally Posted by clickclickw00t View Post
    Right, I need a new alternator for that. What I'm trying to say is, will it raise my voltage EVEN the littlest bit. I see we both have Scions. I've tried looking into an alternator for my 2012 but no one makes a H/O one.
    Voltage flows from the highest point. The alternator.



    2014 Ford Fusion
    All stock everything.

  15. #30
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    Re: New speaker guidance (Fi Q's)

    Quote Originally Posted by DDtC View Post
    Voltage flows from the highest point. The alternator.
    So until someone makes a h/0 for the 2011+ TCs I'm SOL?



    2012 Scion TC // 20% tint
    HU: Pioneer MVH-P4400BH
    Front: Focal 165KF Mid, Stock 3.5 inch, Stock 1inch Tweeter.
    Rear: Alpine Type R Component
    Sub: Audioque HDC 312 (@1ohm)
    High Amp: Nakamichi KA-504
    Sub Amp: Audioque 2200.1D
    Deadened doors and trunk
    Stinger Volt-meter
    Decaf All Day

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