Don't cut your box!!! Agreed with rickI30, but check your settings on your headunit. Bass boost off?
Head unit: Kenwood Excelon KDC-X996
Front stage: Alpine Type X PRO mids Vifa Neo 1" silk tweeters
Front stage amp: PPI Bk800.4
Subs: SSA XCON 12's in 4.5 cubes tuned to 34hz
Sub amp: PPI Bk1300.1
Sound Deadening: Second Skin Damplifier Pro, Spectrum, and Sludge
If you have one set your multi meter to ohms and connect it to the positive and negative terminals of your subwoofer (can be done in the box but preferably out) and it should read between 3.7 and 4.2 but close to 4.0 for a 4 ohm sub.
Honestly this sounds like an issue with either your sub or your headunit settings. What type of head unit do you have? Is your "loudness" set to "off"? Make sure your EQ is set to flat. Did you properly set your gains with a Digital Multimeter? That is one of the most important parts of setting up your system. That JL should be kicking pretty hard. MAKE SURE YOUR BASS BOOST ON THE AMP IS OFF! And you have a high pass filter somewhere between 80-100hz
Should I turn the bass to 0 and then adjust the gain? Will this help some?
I currently have the HPF set to 63Hz but I usually have it at 80.
Also, if I push on the sub it still has good resistance but I can reproduce the grinding noise if I push in on the sub on any side of the front. If I push directly on the center of the sub it does not make the noise. Does this mean my sub is messed up?
I have two months left to return it for a warranty repair, but I'm not looking forward to being sub-less for however long it takes for them to fix it.
Yea, set the bass setting to 0. that is "normal". I think you really need to read up on car audio and setting AMP gains with a Digital Multimeter. Honestly, I had no idea how to do it about 8 months ago, and then after about 2 hours of reading, and spending $50 on a multimeter, I was able to set my gains properly and have had no problems since.
Also, the grinding noise can happen if the cone is misaligned, but if you press down on the middle and it makes no noise it is probably fine. I would definitely do research on proper gain setting. That is the most important part of the connection between your head unit and the subwoofer: how much voltage the amp is getting/gaining. Trust me you won't regret it. Doing it by ear only causes problems down the line.
you're gonna need to burn a CD with test tones, and with your volume at about 3/4 of the way, you set your voltage.
As far as the grinding noise coming from the sub when I turn the knob.. it used to not do it, and it just recently started. So I'm a little worried about that.
01 Silverado 2500hd
Four custom mmats juggernaut 12's. (For sale, or trade for two beefy 12's or 15's)
Bought from: Jayzbent, mylows10, logan527, Timmy13091, wingsfreak9, Underfire
Traded with: mylows10(x2), knowmadic
Sold to: 03silverado03, foomanchu, heel4lyfe, Timmy13091, wErd
If your sub is making a grinding noise it's time to get something new
Owner, SounDrive Custom RCAs (and other cables)
Find us on Facebook!
Clip city b1tch, clip clip city b1tch. 10's, 12's, 15's, goin up in flames b1tch.
09 Sienna Subs : hdc318. Sub amp: DC audio 3.5k
Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS bought used from vertex audio Mids/Highs amp: PPI Phantom 900.4 - bought from dragnix
Front stage: 3 way active front stage with Massive Audio CKX tweets, alpine type R 6x9 midbass in doors + DB drive pro audio 6.5 in the kick.
320 amp Singer alt almost installed. 0 gauge Audio technix ofc all around, 2 group 31 agms in the back.
Thanks guys! I will give JL a call in the morning.
Okay, so I turned down the bass boost, and my Subwoofer.2? (pioneer HU) setting on my sub is at 80Hz and my HPF setting is on 80Hz. Is that correct to do? Also, is it required that the lowest Hz setting on my EQ be at 0 or can I adjust it up or down?
I haven't had time to call JL yet, just trying to make this thing work decently for now.
Google "setting gain with ddm"
Ohms are the unit of measure for electrical resistance. The ddm sends a specific voltage with a specific amperage known to the meter. Using ohm's law that states it take 1 volt with 1 amp to cross 1 ohm of resistance.
If the meter reads 0 or close to it you have a short. If it reads I or infinity then you have an open circuit(blown).
The reason for 3/4 HU volume the signal can become "dirty" above this. By doing this it you never want to turn your volume above this level because your amp is sendong out most signal while still safe for your speaker. Once it is done. If You want to, use the HU settings to up the sub level at normal listening levels. Remember to turn it back dow. If you are showing off or cranking it.
Phd af6.1 zapco iforce 250
Phd 1.c tweeters
Eclipse 7200 mkii active
SA-12 powered by MB Quart ONYX1500.1