RF Power Series T112D2 Blowing Amps?

[audiobaun]

Deff get that big three done for the power you are running/amps..it will help tremendously.Have a good one..I run ofc, and its fine as well..any wire ran at the moment is better than the burnt wiring you have in there at the moment for sure.I think you will see/hear a big difference once you get it replaced

[its10v1]

Pics of my 1/0
Logo:


Competition Series Oxygen


Free 1/0AWG Battery Cable



I had an ANL Fuse holder this whole time, reason for not using it is, its missing a terminal screw. Left end is missing screw, Right end isn't pictured:

blah..

[its10v1]

I think I may snag one of these:
iSimple HubVoltVM USB Car Charger with Digital Display Voltage Meter: Cell Phones : Walmart.com

can it get much more simple than that?
A: It'll be in my view at all times, B: it's cheap, C: I...can't run and grab it right now.. efffffff
Hard wiring and mounting a volt meter would be much more difficult than the above Plug-in..

[Joseph7195]

I am glad to see you are getting the help you have been wanting!!

This here in this picture is what is referred to as "shorting".



It happens when the bolt holding the ground tightly becomes loose and allows the wire to bounce around and "short" out. It is charaterized by the melting and discoloration around the bolt hole. The body of a a vehicle is definitely not the best grounding spot for higher power amps.

I try to create a "circuit" between all the grounds in my vehicle. This circuit will guarantee the best and least likely to short. I try to ground all my equipment to the frame, and also make sure I ground my batteries to the frame. A small hole and a grommet is all it takes!! And don't worry about the hole, they make plugs to seal it so your resale value won't go down!!

[its10v1]

I shaved the paint off of the ground with a wire brush and a drill.. the discolored part of my ground, in my opinion, is a protective coating I used to prevent corrosion. I can take a closer picture to explain further.

[Joseph7195]

I shaved the paint off of the ground with a wire brush and a drill.. the discolored part of my ground, in my opinion, is a protective coating I used to prevent corrosion. I can take a closer picture to explain further.

Yeah man, extra pics would be awesome! The more information we have, the better the chance of helping you. Plus we all love pics here!

[its10v1]

derpderpderp
took longer than 10 mins to post pics, was having issues with my laptop and uploading pics.

[its10v1]

Yeah man, extra pics would be awesome! The more information we have, the better the chance of helping you. Plus we all love pics here!

BEST Resolution I can get out of my phone:

This picture shows more clearly that spray corrosion protection (More over a spray adhesive) residue, as well as a small spot of rust (Sun roof leaks, allows moisture to build up in the cabin, this spot is close enough that it's likely to have been exposed to the moisture.)
I'm thinking what you're referring to as a spot that looks like it's "shorting" is just a shadow cast by the build up of the residue. Unless you know for sure that the rust is caused by "shorting."
I will be sure to hit this spot with a wire brush again, unless I find a way to get to my frame without drilling through the bottom of my trunk.

Thanks for your concern and advice! I'll definitely take it into consideration!!

[its10v1]

stripped my wires, this stuffs headed for scrap yard tomorrow provided the world doesn't end.
On a more positive note... I sold my amps on Cl took a loss but I recouped some of the cash I put out for my SAZ-1500D. Got ripped off for a battery... was leaking and scrapped it for $30.. will need to replace the one under my hood as its bad cell is getting worse day by day. Woot for Christmas. Possibly buying some DC lvl 5 15's and having SPLaudio rework them into 12's. Gonna be a lotta $$ but I'm positive I'll be happy with the outcome. Progressively getting better equipment... alas the audiophile inside me is geeked and happy with what I'm doing. Here's to being an audiophile.

[Joseph7195]

I just realized you posted again, and that ground is definitely the problem. The 4 or 5 layers of protectant the auto manufacturer puts on the body is really hard to take off. a wire brush just won't cut it. You will need a grinder to get down to the bare metal. But my first suggestion will always be to ground to the frame, lol. It's the safest and best ground and if you can get all grounds to attach to the frame, it will help things run better, give you less noise introduced onto the system and facilitate higher output voltages from your amp and allow the whole system to run more efficiently.

I hope you like your new system, cause it sounds awesome!!!!! If I can help anymore, please let me know!!

[its10v1]

Thanks man. I'll see what I can do about getting to the frame. My new subs should be here the 26th. My SAZ-1500D is here. Waiting for a warmer day to do big 3. Plus I'm pretty sure I need a better battery and one for the trunk. Thanks again and Merry Christmas!!

[audiobaun]

Very nice improvement going on! Im happy to hear things are going your way.

[its10v1]

Thanks man. I'm happy to finally be receiving complements on my to-be system. I will need to upgrade several aspects of my electrical system before putting my new equipment in. Maybe my alternator is strong enough.. (stock 105A) but I doubt my battery will last long. Will need 2 new batteries one under hood, one in trunk (possibly two for trunk not sure yet.) Doing some shopping on prices but haven't really been checking everywhere possible. A few local audio shops carry Kinetic Batteries but 1 56ah kinetic is $279. I guess people around here will pay it.. I won't.

/rant Thanks for complements.

[audiobaun]

Thanks man. I'm happy to finally be receiving complements on my to-be system. I will need to upgrade several aspects of my electrical system before putting my new equipment in. Maybe my alternator is strong enough.. (stock 105A) but I doubt my battery will last long. Will need 2 new batteries one under hood, one in trunk (possibly two for trunk not sure yet.) Doing some shopping on prices but haven't really been checking everywhere possible. A few local audio shops carry Kinetic Batteries but 1 56ah kinetic is $279. I guess people around here will pay it.. I won't.

/rant Thanks for complements.

You can PM @RAM_Designs,usually carries some very nice batteries, and a good price..Id hit him up with a PM,just a suggestion for you

[its10v1]

Thanks, will do.