Adding 6.5" subs to the rear doors?

[sjv13]

I bet it's a crossover setting. Even tuned to 33, you should be able to get proper "rock music" response (mid 40hz and 65hz) quite easily. Make sure your low-pass is at like 80hz, or 63hz with a very gradual slope (3/6). Mid drivers should be able to be crossed at 100 or 120 and the two should meet well causing no loss in output between your subs and mids.

Already solved the problem. Thanks though. Just used the wrong line on the + sign to set the HPF for the woofers.

[Kingstroker]

So maybe I should just turn up the gains and dial down every frequency above 200hz?

Where this guy's doors deadened to heck? Or did he have some pods or baffles or anything?

I have a foam strip around the 6.5" in my front doors, but I couldn't really notice a difference when I did it, and that's the only thing I've done to the doors except put the new speakers in them. Maybe I need some heavier foam? I used open cell. And I'm not completely sure it's enough to go the whole way between the speaker and door panel. It was a pretty half-assed attempt at getting better midbass response out of the Focals.

only deadened, if your door is mostly sealed with deadener you might not need the foam seal

[gckless]

Alright guys. I'm an idiot. I cant believe I didnt realize this before, and I dont really even want to post this here. It all makes sense now. I went to the speaker amp to turn the gain up and took a look at the other settings. I gave them all a turn and set them back to normal just to check them. When I came across the HPF screw, I was amazed. I had used the wrong line of the + sign to set it. So instead of being set at 90hz, it was set at 450hz. I cant believe what I was missing! It's been like this since I installed this amp (so about a month). I used an alpine power pack that did 45x4 prior to this amp so I never really got that good midbass response out of my speakers. And it's no wonder I was a little disappointed when I put in the Polk amp expecting it to really bring my Focals to life, the HPF was wayyyy high. Hahah. Oh jeeze. The missing frequencies have been found! Sorry for taking your time, I feel so stupid. But I am still thinking about putting the JLs in. If my Focals can do what they are doing now, I can only imagine how much better it would be with dedicated midbass woofers.

Thanks for your help guys! (especially @neo_styles )

Glad you found the problem. And I doubt you need to add speakers in the rear. Just look at some of the install jobs people have done on front stages to get an idea of what you need to do. Especially look at Keep_Hope_Alive's build log, I think it's a Civic. That guy knows what he's doing. You do some work up front, and I'm fairly certain you will be happy with it.

[sjv13]

Glad you found the problem. And I doubt you need to add speakers in the rear. Just look at some of the install jobs people have done on front stages to get an idea of what you need to do. Especially look at Keep_Hope_Alive's build log, I think it's a Civic. That guy knows what he's doing. You do some work up front, and I'm fairly certain you will be happy with it.

If that's the guy that has the deadening sticky thread then I've read his post multiple times. I'm just a little leery of using something like dynamat because of the cost and I dont know how much I will notice it.

[gckless]

If that's the guy that has the deadening sticky thread then I've read his post multiple times. I'm just a little leery of using something like dynamat because of the cost and I dont know how much I will notice it.

Use Audio Technix or Knu, they are good. There's others as well that are cheaper/better than Dynamat. You will notice it. How much are those JL's? Deadening is probably cheaper than those two.

[sjv13]

Use Audio Technix or Knu, they are good. There's others as well that are cheaper/better than Dynamat. You will notice it. How much are those JL's? Deadening is probably cheaper than those two.

The JLs can be had for $260. How much do you think I would need to cover two doors and a rear hatch? Would it be worth having someone who knows what they're doing do it for me?

[wickedwitt]

Already solved the problem. Thanks though. Just used the wrong line on the + sign to set the HPF for the woofers.

Yeah, read about it after I posted and work was crazy unable to edit or add to my post. Glad you solved the problem. From where you had it set before, I bet you've picked up a ton of music.

[sjv13]

Yeah, read about it after I posted and work was crazy unable to edit or add to my post. Glad you solved the problem. From where you had it set before, I bet you've picked up a ton of music.

haha yeah. Tell me about it. It's like I got a 3 times better system for free!

[neo_styles]

The JLs can be had for $260. How much do you think I would need to cover two doors and a rear hatch? Would it be worth having someone who knows what they're doing do it for me?

For doors and a hatch, you'd probably only need about 20 sqft and you'd still have some left over to run through again. Another option to look at is RaaMat which can be had for super cheap (RAAMaudio - Automotive sound deadening products). Just talk to Rick by email and he should be able to set you up well. I was looking at 140 for CLD/MLV and that was enough to do more than you're looking for.

[gckless]

The JLs can be had for $260. How much do you think I would need to cover two doors and a rear hatch? Would it be worth having someone who knows what they're doing do it for me?

For doors and a hatch, you'd probably only need about 20 sqft and you'd still have some left over to run through again. Another option to look at is RaaMat which can be had for super cheap (RAAMaudio - Automotive sound deadening products). Just talk to Rick by email and he should be able to set you up well. I was looking at 140 for CLD/MLV and that was enough to do more than you're looking for.

Yep, this^^^. I do like the AT stuff as well. That's like $120 at most for any deadener/CLD/MLV that you might need, then you can spend some time and a small amount of money on proper install. Might need some foam, fiberglass, things like that that won't add up to much, but will sound great when done well.

Do it yourself. That's what this hobby is all about right? Deadener is super easy to do, and the fiberglass and building pods and all that sounds hard, but really isn't, just takes a bit of time the first couple times you do it. It pays off in the end.

[sjv13]

Yep, this^^^. I do like the AT stuff as well. That's like $120 at most for any deadener/CLD/MLV that you might need, then you can spend some time and a small amount of money on proper install. Might need some foam, fiberglass, things like that that won't add up to much, but will sound great when done well.

Do it yourself. That's what this hobby is all about right? Deadener is super easy to do, and the fiberglass and building pods and all that sounds hard, but really isn't, just takes a bit of time the first couple times you do it. It pays off in the end.

So what do you recommend I do? All I've done is add the foam around the speakers to form a type of seal between them and the door panel (not pictured).

I'll upload a pic when I get to a computer. I'm at school right now.

[gckless]

So what do you recommend I do? All I've done is add the foam around the speakers to form a type of seal between them and the door panel (not pictured).

I'll upload a pic when I get to a computer. I'm at school right now.

Wow, that door actually looks pretty sealed. Ideally you want to completely seperate the front and rear waves of the speaker, which means no holes in the doors. You will want to deaden your doors, that will make a difference. I suggest you read around at the different front stage complete builds like the one I mentioned by @keep_hope_alive , see why they did what they did, and see how much work you really want to put into it. I am not the expert on front stage, or anything for that matter, and will be the first to admit it, but those that are have typed things up about what you should do and why. Do some searching around on here, you'll find a lot.

[sjv13]

Wow, that door actually looks pretty sealed. Ideally you want to completely seperate the front and rear waves of the speaker, which means no holes in the doors. You will want to deaden your doors, that will make a difference. I suggest you read around at the different front stage complete builds like the one I mentioned by @keep_hope_alive , see why they did what they did, and see how much work you really want to put into it. I am not the expert on front stage, or anything for that matter, and will be the first to admit it, but those that are have typed things up about what you should do and why. Do some searching around on here, you'll find a lot.

Alright. And yeah, that's the reason I wasnt sure how much deadener would help me because tbh, my doors are already pretty heavy and solid (not to mention my whole car) and they close with a nice thunk. But the main reason to deaden with some type of mat is to stop the metal from "resonating" right? Things that I dont necessarily hear happening right now?

[gckless]

Alright. And yeah, that's the reason I wasnt sure how much deadener would help me because tbh, my doors are already pretty heavy and solid (not to mention my whole car) and they close with a nice thunk. But the main reason to deaden with some type of mat is to stop the metal from "resonating" right? Things that I dont necessarily hear happening right now?

Correct. Reduce vibrations, basically lower (try to eliminate) the resonating frequency of the door panels.

[sjv13]

Correct. Reduce vibrations, basically lower (try to eliminate) the resonating frequency of the door panels.

Will doing this make me "feel" it more when the midbass hits? That's really what I'm after.