Adding 6.5" subs to the rear doors?

[sjv13]

If you don't know wtf you want, there's nothing we can do. You need to give us something to work with. What sound specifically are you lacking?

I'm looking for the "punch you in the chest" type of feeling.

[sjv13]

Up Front Bass -- Just an Illusion? - DIYMA Car Audio Forum

This might help

Thank you. I was looking for where that was! This thread is exactly what I am talking about. It's that initial IMPACT of the bass hit that I'm missing, which is apparently at a higher frequency than I might think.

[neo_styles]

You're welcome. I take tokens of gratitude via paypal

[sjv13]

You're welcome. I take tokens of gratitude via paypal

Hahah. I dont have a paypal.

And according to the DIYMA thread, it looks like my main problem could just be that my seats need to be made heavier/deadened. And that's not going to happen haha.

[neo_styles]

Yeah, I couldn't find the specific post even using the search tool but I'm still looking.

[sjv13]

Yeah, I couldn't find the specific post even using the search tool but I'm still looking.

Yeah. I've been reading for a while now. Still only on page 3. Let me know if you find that guy's post about his set up.

[neo_styles]

Fo sho

[sjv13]

Fo sho

I'm on page 5 now, and I've realized the thread has drifted from OP's topic. He wanted to know how to get the kick in the chest feeling, which is what I want. And they are now talking about the "bass up front" illusion. I am looking more for the feeling of the initial impact rather than the sound.

[neo_styles]

How to bring sub presence Forward? - DIYMA Car Audio Forum

They kinda go hand in hand. Other things I picked up were that to get the punch in the chest sensation, you need something to play with authority between 60-80 Hz, so people have been doing this one of two ways:

1. Larger midbass in the front doors (some are running 10" believe it or not)
2. Dedicated midbass bandpassed to cover this range

On another note, try using an RTA to smooth frequency response in the sub's range.

[sjv13]

How to bring sub presence Forward? - DIYMA Car Audio Forum

They kinda go hand in hand. Other things I picked up were that to get the punch in the chest sensation, you need something to play with authority between 60-80 Hz, so people have been doing this one of two ways:

1. Larger midbass in the front doors (some are running 10" believe it or not)
2. Dedicated midbass bandpassed to cover this range

On another note, try using an RTA to smooth frequency response in the sub's range.

I get the feeling I could just slap a pair of the JL 6.5" subs in my rear doors and it would make me a happy camper. I dont know enough about TA or have an ear that can tell the difference really. I think I'm lacking in the 80-150hz range, mainly because that's the point where speakers dont go down to, and my sub doesnt go up to.

EDIT: Besides, I dont really have anything close to a SQ system anyways.

[neo_styles]

TA isn't the be all end all, though. There have been extremely well-done SQ cars that never needed it. For you, I'd focus on the EQ. Band-pass those JLs in the rear, just keep in mind you'll need to lower the volume so they don't pull the soundstage back. If you feel mod-happy, you might even be able to wiggle those JL midbasses into the center console/dash area. Or custom kicks.

[sjv13]

TA isn't the be all end all, though. There have been extremely well-done SQ cars that never needed it. For you, I'd focus on the EQ. Band-pass those JLs in the rear, just keep in mind you'll need to lower the volume so they don't pull the soundstage back. If you feel mod-happy, you might even be able to wiggle those JL midbasses into the center console/dash area. Or custom kicks.

How would I bandpass the JLs?

[neo_styles]

If your amp has a bandpass feature (PPI 900.4 does), you can use that.

Or you could be cheeky and highpass on the amp and lowpass on the deck for that channel

Or use an external electronic crossover

[sjv13]

If your amp has a bandpass feature (PPI 900.4 does), you can use that.

Or you could be cheeky and highpass on the amp and lowpass on the deck for that channel

Or use an external electronic crossover

Well I'm going to be using the amp I already have for the front and rear doors. Right now the 2 tweets and 2 woofs each get their own channel. But it would be easy enough to tie them together to free up two channels for the JLs. The 4 channel I'd run them with has the option for either LPF or HPF (one or the other, not at the same time). And my HU has HPF for the front and rear RCAs and LPF for the sub RCAs.

The amp can take care of one or the other for the JLs. But I cant change the LPF or HPF on the HU because then it would affect the other speakers or 12" sub.

[neo_styles]

Hmm I know Clarion makes an active x-over for under 100 that's supposed to be pretty sweet. Check out Audio Savings | Welcome to AudioSavings.com and find it. I'd just put that in your system and go to town.