
The big three upgrade tutorial..one of many to look at/watch to get the info neededhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p82xRzCr-lc

The big 3 can still be done,the run of your +/- main run will be a bit longer for that,but you have the option to get a nice large AGM batt for all your supply needs, Like Kinetick/Stinger/xs/Dekas ect/Orileys super starts agm is what I am using atm(2 with the big three done on ea and 255 amp alt)warranty are 3yrs free replacement, and 4yr prorated afterwards..Mine were $169 ea.You should be able to find the big 3 tutorial/info on your vehicle on you tube somewhere/easiest way to do with little issues as possible to run/do.
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Being in the trunk, sounds like you may need approx 17ft runs/2/one for the poss,one for the block ground..last ground can be done off the rear at the frame/rearend even.I use Cadence,and have had no issues thus far..may be a Black Fri sale on it?I buy mine here-
Audio Savings | Cadence 0G100-BLUE 0 AWG Gauge 17 Feet Car Amp Power Wire Cool Cable Technology
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I will place a bet that your car battery is weak. I would replace the standard "starting battery" with the biggest deep cycle AGM that will fit. Run 2 ga wiring to the alt, engine ground and batt ground, then you can use 4ga (or 2ga, if the amp accepts it) at the amp power and ground. If your battery i`s in the trunk, run the amp pos and ground directly to it for the best connections....do the above and you will be golden.
"Bailout: Taking a trillion dollars from the people and giving it to the banks so the banks can loan it back to the people, at interest!"
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Thanks. I watched that tutorial and he had a bunch of adapters. Would I be able to get those at a local electrical store? Or do I need to find somewhere online.
Probably not a chance in hell that my electrical system in my 2000 bmw 528 could handle kenwood 308 double din deck, 10 total speakers, 740w 4 channel speaker amp, two sdc2.5 10s and a 1200ad amp? Running that 0 gauge wire would be a HUGE project in that car.. I think a shop would have to do it for me.

all the more reason to upgrade your electrical system to handle the added load of an upgraded sound system...a good 1200w+ amp is going to draw 100+ amps at times above what your car is designed to handle....to avoid potential and given problems (headlight dimming to amp failure), the advised upgrades are a must.
"Bailout: Taking a trillion dollars from the people and giving it to the banks so the banks can loan it back to the people, at interest!"
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Orileys/Autozone/Home Depot/Welding supply store s have the Copper Ring Terminals easiest to use/crimp/vise/or crimp and punch is what I do,and easy.You only need 2 main wires to the trunk,can be ran underneath the vehicle and secured easily enough, and drill couple holes for entry,and seal with silicone,without running throughout the enterior of the vehicle.Wire can be wrapped in split loom for added protection as well as having the thick jacket around it already.Another option to be considered to do yourself, and save more funds towards the audio needs rather than paying extra funds for labor of having it done
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ps..a capacitor is a useless tool, much like a band-aid on a severed member that serves no purpose without the benefits of added capacitance found in a suitable AGM deep cycle battery...I know they are expensive....but well worth it.
"Bailout: Taking a trillion dollars from the people and giving it to the banks so the banks can loan it back to the people, at interest!"
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My battery says 12v 90ah 720a on it. Not exactly sure what that means in terms for me and my system.
How much would a good battery for my system cost me? Would it alone be enough of a change or do I have to do the big 3 also or a capacitor be good enough with the battery?
Try the big three first,and run what you have, and if you are still needing more power(assuming you may) get a large AGM when you get a chance.You can google up info for different types of batts and theyre applications ect/Free info,Yet, An Agm batt is what will be needed in your case to keep up with the demand.A good one that will fit your budget, and your needs.If you could fit a Kinetick 2000, or larger and have the funds for it now, Id get it and run it,or budget wise/as I have done, that Orileys Super Start Agm with no issues for my needs, and Im running approx 800x2 true rms for subs, and 150 x2 for mids and highs along with approx 50-75x4 on tweets and rear fill
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