ok will do
ok will do
And set the gain right before you fry the sub
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Ill agree with everyone else here that u need more power actually JL says the recommended power rating for the W7 is 1k. trying to find a 1k @ 3ohm is gonna be a bit tricky unless u can find a JL 1000/1 on the cheap. Also I had a few W7's and i can tell u they really come alive in a bigger than JL spec box. IIRC the 13W7's likes 3.5-4 cu ft and we had it tuned in the lower 40's we were getting 48's sub back port back in a 4 runner on a sounstream XXX 4k
I have a JL 1000/1 V2 if let go if you were interested. I also have a buddy that may be interested in your 500/1.
amp as stated and look at a box design. If you have it in a JL spec ported, you can get much more out the box.
This is kind of a question and suggestion possibly. I've recently heard that if you put a sub too close to a port that it can unload causing distortion and can mess it up. How does that work and how often does that happen? Could that be an issue with his considering it only sounds crappy when turned up?
Got a 10w7 on 750w and it is begging for more. I love that sub.
Running small stereos so I can haul a stroller.
2004 Ford Focus SVT - Kenwood DDX370, JL Audio C2-525 Components, Sundown E8v1, NVX MVPA1 Mono Amp, Power Acoustik RZ2-1300D 2-Channel, Pac SWI-RC Steering Wheel Adapter
1993 Ford Ranger (System still in progress) - Kenwood KDC-452U, E8v1 in Custom Ported Box, amplifiers and speakers still in question.
if the box is to JL spec it probably has a L port or a "soundwave" style port which is what JL used in their H.O. boxes so i guess OP can let us in on that
Is there a general rule for port lenght? I plan on fiberglassing my quarter panels in to save space but want to try to port them so I can keep my output but dont want to jack them up with this.
OP, sorry to thread jack, but the unloading at higher volumes thing might help you as well.
lulz at clipping...
145.18 @33z... with less than 500 watts!
1 is never enough 2 is better