What do you know about a 100% DD setup?

[bgowdy31]

-4 3515s
-2 m3as
-only 1 set of DD german speakers in... im installing the second set in the rear doors this week..
-DD s4 powering the germans (best active amp ive ever f---ed with)
-1 batcap 4000
-1 excessive 300amp alt
-grounded the rear batcap to the front battery and resulting at 13.9v at full tilt
-Pwk designs box
-the whole truck is audio wrapped.

Enjoy

http://youtu.be/joewouLJCu8?hd=1

what does grounding the rear batt to front help with???

[FlexnInLa]

im not a douche... he was talking **** on me that i have DD while hes driving a $500 beater... he needs to rethink before questioning someone elses expenses...

Dude again, nice set up you got there... but stop playing the "I'm rich and everybody else is poor" card. You should know, this place has more than it's share of haters.

[Kangaroux]

what does grounding the rear batt to front help with???

Does away with any resistance you may run into when grounding to the chassis

[bgowdy31]

oh ok i see. i just fixed my ground re ran wires and re installed my new amp

[DDtC]

what does grounding the rear batt to front help with???

Its the most soild grounding location in your car.

[cdimic25]

Dude again, nice set up you got there... but stop playing the "I'm rich and everybody else is poor" card. You should know, this place has more than it's share of haters.

Where did I ever say I was rich?

[cdimic25]

Ground to the battery is the best. I drop .4v when the beat drops and I give part of that credit to grounding to the stock battery.

[Kangaroux]

Where did I ever say I was rich?

You didn't but you were definitely implying something similar to that, which, to be honest, is a lot of what's wrong with this hobby.

[DDtC]

You dont have to be rich to have a setup like that. Its just where your prorities are.

[bgowdy31]

You didn't but you were definitely implying something similar to that, which, to be honest, is a lot of what's wrong with this hobby.

i aint rich... but happy with my setup. hell i only have like $700 total in im setup

[cdimic25]

i aint rich... but happy with my setup. hell i only have like $700 total in im setup

700 bucks ain't bad for a 146 at dash. If it craves your urge then it's perfect

[bgowdy31]

700 bucks ain't bad for a 146 at dash. If it craves your urge then it's perfect

yea... i mean im fine with the numbers vs the money in it. i mean i was wanting to be at least at a 150db. but i just run a standard blazer. i could probly do it with a wall but im married so i aint gonna do that lol. i may add a 2nd 18" later or somthing tho..

[bgowdy31]

yea... i mean im fine with the numbers vs the money in it. i mean i was wanting to be at least at a 150db. but i just run a standard blazer. i could probly do it with a wall but im married so i aint gonna do that lol. i may add a 2nd 18" later or somthing tho..

but it sounds like your setup should be pretty loud though

---------- Post added at 10:51 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:50 AM ----------

didnt mean to write it on my on post lol

[wenn_du_weinst]

I guess since staying on topic isn't going to happen, I'll join this generic DD discussion.

The whole 'pioneered the large magnet game' thing is kinda pointless anyway. Who defines what a "big" magnet is? All subs weren't funky pup sized before 9500's came out.

My big problem with DD isn't their design style, their cone material, their ungodly tight suspensions, or even their prices. The negative for me with DD is their attitude about not publishing specs. They are a relatively small company that caters to non-mainstream car audio enthusiasts and SPL competitors. So to withhold specs, to me, is not only a pita for consumers, but a confusing and questionable business decision. xmax/xmech, fs, Qes/Qms, etc... these are all important specs for a knowledgeable enthusiast to know. I dont want to just build to their recommendation, or test multiple boxes Ive had to make just to get a clue what my alignment is/will be.

the reason they don't is because published t/s are usually so far off they are worthless. taken from a single non broken in driver is going to be much different then a broken in sub with slightly different parts

[RAM_Designs]

the reason they don't is because published t/s are usually so far off they are worthless. taken from a single non broken in driver is going to be much different then a broken in sub

I've always wonder why some insist they are so different after break-in. Just going off what I have seen people(mainly "underground" companies) post of new vs broken in subs, there's really not much of a difference. The Fs and Qts drops a little, and the Vas goes up a little...which is to be expected in practically every single case. But nothing seems to be glaringly different that would warrant a complete disregard of the t/s.

So basically I'm just wondering what makes you say that the specs are worthless and change so much after break-in, because I have seen a few people make this same argument when it seems like(to me at least) it's not the case.