
Someone who clamped a pair said they got 6kw per amp after each one was at 1/2ohm after box rise. Going off of that, it doesn't really seem like an 8kw amp, and certainly not at the ohm load it's rated for, considering each sub was probably wired to 1/4ohm dcr.
http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/f...-m4s-sale.html
So SPL competitors have no use for t/s specs? Really bro? They dont need to know things like xmech or fs, to help calculate their enclosure size or likely tuning and/or port area? Believe me, I realize a successful SPL install is usually after a process of trial and error with different box configurations, but to sugget SPL guys have no need for t/s specs is just crazy. And if it wasn't for DD's policy, I doubt you would be here trying to convince us of this.
And even if your theory on SPL guys not needing specs were true, what about daily installs? SQ installs?
I dont know what you are talking about with your 'selling simulated guesses' comment, t/s specs are easy to generate/verify using a DUMAX machine.
Cabin gain has nothing to do with this.
So its your opinion that we couldn't trust t/s specs from DD anyway, so why expect them to publish them at all?
No speaker, in the history of speakers, has ever been blown by too little power. Ever. I don't care what your friend told you, he's a dirty liar.
I'd say any t/s specs are a good start but any speaker is like a good shoe. It molds to its surrounding to create a comfortable fit. Each speaker is different. However I couldn't imagine it being way off from original.
Nobody claimed t/s are perfect, always accurate, or any form of end-all be-all tool for getting exactly the right performance out of a speaker. But you aren't going to convince me that DD trying to pioneer the notion that ignorance is bliss is the right direction for the industry/hobby to move in.
No speaker, in the history of speakers, has ever been blown by too little power. Ever. I don't care what your friend told you, he's a dirty liar.
there are some many variables..
but honestly it's alot less complex than people make it out to be..
key elements are phase, displacement and finding your cars resonance frequency..
placement for all forms is simple a function of phasing..
another element used today is concentration..
focusing the pressure around the sensor..
some vehicles are naturally better at this because of the shape of the dash and angle of the windshield..
as for which sub is louder can have a great deal of the equation but mist sol woofers are so similar now n days it boils Dow to having the strongest motor and lowest power compression..
the biggest variable is going to be phasing though..
also you have to keep in mind you have to choose the right sub for the enclosure which is built to resonate the cabin most affectively..
example you might beable to use 5.5 tuned to 49 with 2 9512s but use the same 5.5 tuned to 52 with btl 12s and get a better score because phase/coupling us mire linear with the btls..
knowledge is powerful but imagination is exponentially powerful..
experience is key!! otherwise life is boring, uneventful and pointless..
sub amps RD audio 1750s(SD3500 when i sell the RDs)---better audio prototypes
mids CDT ES-6--tweeters CDT ES-02
comp amp SD sax100.4D(for sale looking for a zapco 1000.4)
deck..execlon x991

I keep wondering why Incriminator Audio doesn't post their T/S. All you get is "???" That's way worse than DD's only slight obfuscation of their T/S.
Simple SQ System:
Head Unit: Alpine CDA-117
Active Crossover: Cache' CEX
Front Stage Amp: Boston Acoustics GTA-704
Components: Polk Audio DB 6501
Sub Amp: Boston Acoustics GTA-1000m
Sub: JBL P1224, 2.5 ft^3 @ 25 hz enclosure
Rear Fill: Sony Xplod 5.25s on HU power lolz

no t/s specs have no place in burp cars. you honestly think running 10 times rms is going to even be close to the t/s that are measured at very low wattage? come on, and yes I don't trust any ones published t/s specs
I hope your not trying to compare that piece of trash warhorse with the m4a
and another guy got 6k out of m4's, just because one amp doesn't do it doesn't mean they all won't. Sound pressure has a ton that clamp right around 8k. Running dd's at ohm is a waste of an amp, I've ran mine at .25 daily nominal before.
I am protesting Skar by giving them added exposure in my signature.

Pot. Kettle. Black. Just because you don't know anyone that can clamp 8k+ at 2ohm with their Warhorse with DSP (a wonderful signal integrity device), doesn't mean I won't be able to. Trust me, I'll be putting clamp results up here for everyone to see just exactly what I get. If I get 9500 at 13.8v wonderful. If I get 7500 at 13.8v wonderful too.
Your logic is backwards here. .25 ohm daily is stupid. It stresses an electrical system, provides a greater opportunity for amp failure, and by extension woofer failure. It also, technically reduces sound quality, but people already care so little about true SQ with sub frequencies they play 'SQ' subs at 4ohm and less. I would never run a sub at less than 2ohm for daily and never run a mid at less than 4ohm. If I could get the power I wanted, I would run 4ohm for subs and 8ohm for mids, but we have yet to get into a world where 8k at 4ohm and 1200w at 8ohm is easily achieved.
tl;dr Don't know about you, but I like my music to be loud and have a good sound
Stupid Loud.

Thank you for the double poast mr server
Stupid Loud.

you can account for power compression..
it takes some testing but it can be done..
knowledge is powerful but imagination is exponentially powerful..
experience is key!! otherwise life is boring, uneventful and pointless..
sub amps RD audio 1750s(SD3500 when i sell the RDs)---better audio prototypes
mids CDT ES-6--tweeters CDT ES-02
comp amp SD sax100.4D(for sale looking for a zapco 1000.4)
deck..execlon x991
So if you were to build an SPL setup, you just start building boxes with total guesses? After choosing a sub by completely guessing as to its specs/capabilities? That's a lot of guessing, bro.
And even if I believed you, that still doesn't account for all those other people who aren't building an SPL setup.
You have trust issues. You cant blame that on theil/small parameters and use that as some proof they are meaningless.
No speaker, in the history of speakers, has ever been blown by too little power. Ever. I don't care what your friend told you, he's a dirty liar.
No speaker, in the history of speakers, has ever been blown by too little power. Ever. I don't care what your friend told you, he's a dirty liar.
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