Build a correct box for the W7 and get a halfway decent amp.. Youll be happy. If you want to get a BTL start looking at a bigger alt and a dry cell right now.
Deck: Pioneer 80PRS
Front Stage: Incriminator Audio I65C / Front Amp: JL Audio 300/2
Sub: (2) 10" FI Audio SSD / Sub Amp: MMATS 1500.2
Bought From: ge_off_me, Boomsday, Chemmins, impactas, Sleazebagger, NoPh33rRaCiNg, fasfocus00, 50cents, flastrongman, pborcich, ace_800, GAMEOVERCCA
Sold To: Jamesmington, Juicee, Bunkrd you, Donnie Darko, ge_off_me, destined2race, todd131, Imjtnotu, mclerico83, aimology, Audiobahn, kpetree
Traded With: ge_off_me, Imjtnotu
Since we were getting so technical with our wording here, I figured I would get just as technical as you. I said "I" need rear fill, you said "I" as a driver don't. I meant my application; rear passengers. You simply said less speakers = better sound. Don't try to bash someone by getting technical with your wording, if you cant respond technically back. I knew what you were meaning fyi
My point of this entire conversation is that it still amazes me that whens some noob hears the phrase "rear fill," that noob automatically goes, "Noooo! No rear fill! blah blah blah." when said noob doesnt understand, nor does know the application. All this stands from people reading about real fill on the internet and translates it into, OMG Bad. Said "noob" thinks that rear fill is awalys bad and that there are no applications that rear fill is applicable.
07 black Yamaha V-Star FI 1300. 08 GMC Sierra QC SLE2 Texas Edition
Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.1, Focal Utopia Components, Focal K2P Components with Digital Designs T1 Tweeters, Audiopipe AQX-360.4, Audiopipe 3001D
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hell i got a W6 on 1200 watts for some 6 or so months. i'm sure the W7 would normally do fine on 1000w so its gotta be something other than that.
LOL's out to ......
Written By Nick, Albuquerque, NM
If you can afford L7's you won't be dissapointed, they are incredible. All my buddies who have them have blown out their windows, I'm afraid to turn mine up that loud. If you can give them a lot of power they will beat any other sub hands down. At low gain and no bass boost it is so loud it is actually hard to breathe.
I agree that rear fill is for someone who sits in the back. SQ is too broad a word. Most people have their subwoofer set +3db or more apart from say the front stage which I will admit is fun at times, but causes drowning out, that to me is not sq. SQ is when your speakers are all equally loud depending on what recording your playing. Recording has the biggest effect on bass, and that is why I feel epicenters are for people who like bass, because if a song doesn't get "loud" maybe it wasn't meant to.
As far as rear fill, It's mostly up to the user, takes more power, speakers, wires etc, but does benefit the people sitting in the back. As far as someone sitting alone in the front with rear fill, seems like it would just take away from the imaging which most people do not care about or notice. There really is no right or wrong with rear fill, I personally ditch it.
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Traded with: modskwod, jmkanek
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Both SQ and SPL is overrated. Do what you like.
Bought from: kmanian(x2), KyleBetchtold, Rio, 05_ZX636, SoCalNoob, dave_damage
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Sold to: jadon087, dvldogyut, 95saturn, many box designs...
Click for High Output Enclosures Email (formerly Buck Box Designs)
I do sealed, ported, t-line (consistent width), 4th and 6th order bandpasses.
I answer any audio questions sent to my email for free.
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In Nashville? Me too! Pm me and come hangout!
Since you love to argue, please share with us your empirical data that undeniably proves that a 3way front stage in a car or home or studio is the only way to reach "high end" status.
R.I.P. 2008 Hyundai Tiburon GS
2005 Subaru Baja turbo, build in planing stages.
OP: Do you want to experience the best that W7 can do in your vehicle, designed to do exactly what you want it to do? Or do you want to toss it aside, knowing that you never gave it a fair chance? You have a subwoofer that can do many things very well (i wont credit that to intentional design). If you want to try and make it shine, then give it the enclosure that is designed specifically to reach your target response in that very vehicle using that amount of power.
Wow this thread is full of fail. This forum has gone downhill considerably.
First, frequency response versus path length differences. Ideally, all path lengths from your speakers to your ears are equal. This never happens however (in a car), so we compromise. Car audio mids are designed to run infinite baffle (because most are mounted in doors, which are IB). If you place them in small sealed enclosures in the kick panels, low frequency response will be negatively affected (less midbass). But if you place your 2-way mids in the doors for better low-end response, the path length differences are much greater. This can be accounted for with time alignment, but that can cause its own problems (like relative phase differences). Another possible solution is to run your 2-ways in the kicks, but vent/port them to boost low frequency response, or build an aperiodic membrane enclosure for them venting out through the sheetmetal behind the kicks. Unfortunately, both these methods are a bit too complicated for the average enthusiast to do, and do right. This does not mean all 2-ways sound bad, it simply means they generally require more work to sound as good as a well implemented 3-way.
The 'sweet spot' in human hearing, where it is most sensitive, is in the midrange. So the logical conclusion is run a 3-way, with mids playing midrange, in your kicks, and dedicated midbass drivers in your doors. Midbass is much harder to perceive point sourcing than is midrange, so the path length differences of your midbass drivers in the doors is not nearly as critical as with the midrange.
Secondly, talk to just about any well versed SQ guy and he'll attest to the fact that midbass generally sounds better when the passenger side midbass driver is wired out of phase with the rest of the system. With a 3-way setup, the midbass and midrange are separate drivers, do you can control the phase of your midbass independent to the midrange (because midrange should not be wired out of phase). Ive known some SQ competitors that have run 3-ways for no other reason that to give them control over phase of the midbass without affecting phase of the midrange.
But to answer the seeming contradictory nature of saying less speakers is better, but a 3-way is usually better than a 2-way is... yes, ideally we would only need 2 speakers, run full-range, that adequately produce 20ha-20khz, both sat in front of you, equal distance from the listener. But human technology will not allow such a speaker to exist, and car interiors wont allow you to place them where they'd need to be for ideal performance.
Hope that clears up this debate, and gets the thread back on topic. No need to angry at each other guys, we all have the same love for the same hobby here. Be patient with each other, its not always easy to properly express respect or meaning via text on a computer.