Because I essentially got it for a little under $200. Why would I not buy it?Originally Posted by MisterDeadeye
Member
Because I essentially got it for a little under $200. Why would I not buy it?
Amp: SAE-1200d
Subs: SA-12s (2)
Box: 4.5 cubes at 30 hz
Refs: bass-aholic, t3audios_160sdbjeep, woofercooker
Moderator
Because you really wanted a BTL?
2007 Black Diamond FJ Cruiser with Box built by Pro-Rabbit
H/U Kenwood DNX6960
Sub: 1-18" Zv3 with NS coils and cone Sub Amp: Mmats 2100.2
Front Stage: Hybrid Audio L6 mids, SEAS Neo Tweets, SAX 100.4, RF 3sixty.2
Bought From: Rio, davidtemple, Bassin Buick, Pro-Rabbit, Kangaroux, KyleBechtold Traded With: WhiteDragon551 Sold To: jdmeklove, Kpozr2, 97accordalpine
CarAudio.com Elite
sell it and buy a buy a btl
Refs: diyma-sold to:Mazda3SQ CA.com-traded:matrxx dude CACO- Sold to: Ajax_6154, brandonb1029, TeejayBee traded with: papito FLSPL- Bought from:98chevySPL, JBLCAMRY, traded with:97montecarlo, thumpenranger
Go cheap you get cheap
And a better amp, you wont like the BTL on that one
- 2010 Scion tC
- Alpine CDA-117
- JL 450/4v2 Active (Mid range, tweeters) JL 300/2v2 (Mid bass) DC 5K(Subs)
- Hertz HV 165XL
- Hertz HT28
- JL ZR800
- 2 x DD 9512i
- Singer 300 amp 15.1v bypass, 3 XS D3400s
- DD M4a and XS D3100 coming soon
- Viper 5701 with Smart Start
rolling right along
you need to get with someone that knows how to set the gains.
SPL-Lab REP
Want an SPL meter for a lot less than the cost of a Termlab, but just as accurate and has the same features? PM me.
CarAudio.com Elite
What are the specs of the box it's in? I'm going to say the box is not proper for the sub. You should also find someone who can set the gain properly for you. For under $200, it's a pretty good sub, and it really shouldn't be distorting at 1000w, even if it's really receiving that power from your amp.
Bought from: BassAddictJ, TBH1, Whitedragon551, Parker G, Ciaonzo, James Bang, GetLikeMe, Here-I-Come
Sold to: Slim2fattycake, Bigbangtheory, Safe_Cracker, Burton6431
Traded: Bergend2
Member
OK well thanks for the advice everyone.
I need to upgrade to a 15" soon though because that's what Im building my fiberglass box for. This 12 is more of a temporary set up. You all think I would be better off selling this sub and buying a different 15 rather than breaking this one down and building some sort of "super sub" with AQ or FI (or the likes of) soft parts though??
Amp: SAE-1200d
Subs: SA-12s (2)
Box: 4.5 cubes at 30 hz
Refs: bass-aholic, t3audios_160sdbjeep, woofercooker
CarAudio.com Veteran
id rather have a BLT right now. mmmm yummy
trying to upgrade
dude I agree with you the jl=poop I thought the same thing but the other thing is the jl needs a totally different enclosure besides a mtx box. I had mine in a ho enclosure and I still agree with you. But I fill the same way about btls I like spl monsters sound quality is overated and depending the way your line driver is adjusted a 1/4 way too a half might be too much.My line driver is set at 4 volts peaking 5.6 on burps my gain is adjusted at 1/16 the clipping light come on occasionally on my sd 8k.
CarAudio.com Elite
Yeah, it'll be better off if you buy a new sub rather than trying to rebuild the motor into something it wasn't intended to be. Sell that w7, pick up a 15" HDC3 if you want loud bass for a good price. Lots of other options you can look at too, that's just the first thing that comes to my mind.
Bought from: BassAddictJ, TBH1, Whitedragon551, Parker G, Ciaonzo, James Bang, GetLikeMe, Here-I-Come
Sold to: Slim2fattycake, Bigbangtheory, Safe_Cracker, Burton6431
Traded: Bergend2
Midwest Militia
Based on what I have seen the w7 costs a lot to rebuild and isn't very practical due to the odd parts jl uses.
system 1:
Car:04 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
Sub: Tc Sounds 3000 quad 15
Amp: Audio Pipe Ap1500.1
Head unit: Eclipse AVN7000
Big 3: 1/0
System 2:
Car: Gf's Pontiac G6 GT
Sub: Orion HCCA 12.4
Amp: Audio Pipe Ap3000d
CarAudio.com Veteran
I would deff say no to rebuilding it, thats too much work, too much time, too much money, etc.
Its a W7, it may not be as loud as you want, but should deff sound great if properly installed. I believe the 12 is meant to take 750, while the 13.5 is meant to take 1000, though I am sure they can take more.
You can throw that bad boy up on eBay and easily get $300-400
Then you are well on your way to getting a BTL.
Deck: Pioneer 80PRS
Front Stage: Incriminator Audio I65C / Front Amp: JL Audio 300/2
Sub: (2) 10" FI Audio SSD / Sub Amp: MMATS 1500.2
Bought From: ge_off_me, Boomsday, Chemmins, impactas, Sleazebagger, NoPh33rRaCiNg, fasfocus00, 50cents, flastrongman, pborcich, ace_800, GAMEOVERCCA
Sold To: Jamesmington, Juicee, Bunkrd you, Donnie Darko, ge_off_me, destined2race, todd131, Imjtnotu, mclerico83, aimology, Audiobahn, kpetree
Traded With: ge_off_me, Imjtnotu
bass=sekz
i'll guarantee that the box was holding it waayyy back. if you built a proper box, it would sound wwwaaaayyyyy better. either way though, a BTL will smash it in SPL. and youll need about 2500 watts as well. get ready to make your wallet bleed.
Refs: Dipitydoo, appollyon, bad95gt, revrider1, jwh1598, ampjunkielikeme, deathpenalty18, ssackett, snoopysnooper, corey0928, SPLAudio, Clifff150, CL1CKCLACK, ShawnT, West + more
Junior Member
I don't quite understand why anyone would want more than 400 watts RMS. Don't you guys think it drowns out your fronts? All I hear is bass.
Senior VIP Member
You really need to upgrade your front stage then......
Head Unit: JVC KDAH-79
Front Stage: stock
Rear Deck: stock
Speaker Amp: none
Sub: 2 12" P3
Sub Amp: Alpine m-1000
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