Amazon.com: Lanzar OPTI500X2 Optidrive 2000 Watt 2 Channel Competition Class Mosfet Amplifier: Electronics
How does everyone feel about this amp? It gives 750w to both the subs at 2 ohms.
Does this sound like a good idea?
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Amazon.com: Lanzar OPTI500X2 Optidrive 2000 Watt 2 Channel Competition Class Mosfet Amplifier: Electronics
How does everyone feel about this amp? It gives 750w to both the subs at 2 ohms.
Does this sound like a good idea?
Amazon.com: Lanzar OPTI500X2 Optidrive 2000 Watt 2 Channel Competition Class Mosfet Amplifier: Electronics
I was looking at this amp, does this seem like a good option? According to the RMS it would give both my subs 750w at 2 Ohms.
Is this a go?
no. get the AQ amp. best amp you'd buy for the money...
I disagree with your sub choice, but it's not a big deal, but don't be cheap when you buy your amp. Buy something that will actually do rated, then after you get it all in and your car is "Livin' Loud" start looking at better subs, because Kicker is by no means the best sub money can buy, it's just commercialized crap, but it's like I said, it's not a huge deal since you aren't used to super loud systems, you'll think that those kickers are as loud as subwoofers can get.
So false, it isnt even funny.....I get what you are trying to say, but you are wrong.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Phoenix Risen
OP do big3, get an extra battery, decent 0/1g wire and dont set gains on max and you will be fine. I like what ejschulz recommeneds.
I have had many systems in my Focus, anywhere from 500rms to 2000rms and never upgraded my alty, just big3, good wire, good batteries and watch my settings and everything has been fine.
Yes is it better to run a bigger alty? Of course, but those are some cheddar. If you can afford it, do it, if not and you are careful with gains, you will be fine.
he didnt say factory alt. he said factory electrical. meaning a stock batt, stock alt, and stock wiring. in which case, yes it would be pushing it and the probable voltage drop would likely cause amp issues. but regardless.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbangtheory
If you scroll up, Phoenix mentioned HO alty...just dont think he needs that at this point, least 1500 and under. Above that maybe, but I was fine on many systems without it. Like I said is it better, of course...if it is in the funds.Quote:
Originally Posted by taylorpro
And a few people mentioned about up grading the wire......which I also suggested.
I would think most people would know not to use factory wiring....I mean how do you even use stock wiring for amps, subs and what not, lol!
So adding an extra battery would be a good idea? Sounds great. I was concerned about having to buy another alternator.
I know everyone here hates on Kicker, but why? Not challenging anyone on it, but just out of curiosity.
What is the best sub for the price? A sub woofer that competes with the cvx.
For a starter system, CVX's are definitely a step in the right direction. You could do a lot worse (the dual neon bandpass loaded enclosure comes to mind). As for your electrical, google the big 3 upgrade and grab a nice battery for up front. Your dimming shouldn't be too bad, if using the AQ1200 which is the best recommendation by far, and if it looks like is getting a little too heavy you can always run a second battery in the back. I personally ran a Hifonics BXI1610D AND a HiFi100.4 (Read ~1800 rms) off of a Kinetik HC800 and HC 1400 with the big 3 in my 2000 Eclipse. I had virtually no dimming with the factory 90 amp alternator. Every car's electrical requirements are different so you may or may not need multiple batteries.
Good Luck.
Thank you for your input ^ I'll look up the whole big 3 thing.
Yeah I figured I'm just starting, so i'm going to get a feel for what I like. Kickers seemed to be what most people were talking about.
lol @ the dual reference.
Kicker's aren't really as bad as everyone makes them out to be. They're affordable, readily available (which you can't say about most companies whose names get thrown around here), and to top it off they are very easy to resell should you choose to upgrade. Try explaining to some 16 year old who just got his first car how capable your $800 DigitalDesigns 6,800,000 15" is when all he wants is some "bangin" audiobahns with the flames on em. CVX's get LOUD and don't sound all that horrible in the right enclosure. You will be happy with them I assure you.
PS:Please oh please don't buy a prefabricated enclosure. If you have to put up a mortgage on your house to have someone build and ship a box from Africa, please do it. It will be worth it in the long run.
I totally agree with you. Thanks for letting me know about the prefab enclosure, i'll be sure not to get one. My uncle does car audio, so i'll ask him to help me out making a custom enclosure.
Yeah, I don't have the money for DD or soundstream or any of that. Although I wish I did.
I like my 15" CVRs. They sound good to me and get loud enough for my tastes. I'm sure I'll upgrade to something better later on, but for now they get the job done. Would rather have the CVX's though.
I was thinking about the CVR's, but I figured it would be worth getting the CVX's.
The CVR's aren't bad either. With the amount of bass you're getting with those 15's I'm sure your neighbors already hate you. Everyone always acts like bass is rated on a scale of runny poop to complete orgasm soley dependent on the manufacturer. I don't disagree (double negative can eat me) that each sub sounds different in it's own right, but bass is bass. Its not a super "scientifical" measurement that a lot of people here make it out to be. Just build it and enjoy.
I shall now dismount.
:hihorse: