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    problem.no bashing this time

    If i push down on lets say the left side of the cone. I hear the cone hit something (like it's loose...the whole side goes by itself). If I push down on the right side. The majority of the cone goes with it and it doesn't hit anything. When I play at medium volumes there is a something hitting the cone. The spyder isn't coming off of the frame, but the noise is similiar to when that happened. Any ideas what it could be? I'm sorta in a pickle right now.



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    Re: problem.no bashing this time

    talk to the dealer you bought it from. It might take some time to rectify it if you send it in, but well, there's not many options left..



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    Re: problem.no bashing this time

    Sounds like the sub bottom'd out when you were playing it, and now the sub is junk.........might as well get out your digi cam and show the world you plugging it into a wall



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    Re: problem.no bashing this time

    nah what you do is (seriusly) play the subs, make sure the cone is moving(so basically turn the volume up a bit, put your hand on the sub, and push it in a little bit or until the noise goes away...This worked on some old kenwoods i used to have, and they worked fine after that...



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    Re: problem.no bashing this time

    Yes, my 13W7 had the same exact problem. When you play the sub at a low volume, if the left side of it was pressed down the noise would go away. Try doing that, your about to blow a voice coil is my guess, it sounds like its already overheated but not quite blown yet




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    Re: problem.no bashing this time

    i'm telling ya my method worked on both subs



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    Re: problem.no bashing this time

    hmmm...pushing down on the sub when its playing??? i would definantly not do that atleast until nothing else works. call the dealer you got the sub from or from any dealer, they should know.



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    Re: problem.no bashing this time

    yeah my voice coil is not blown...i'm giving it ~500-600 watts. And my warranty is voided...myself plug it into the wall



    2000 black Audi A6 2.8
    stock components
    RE HC15"
    tsunami 1100d (kills kids)
    building a 4^3cuft tuned to mid 30's

    some nasty sauce mixed in there.



    AIM - fincorny82 2000
    E-mail - [email protected]

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    Re: problem.no bashing this time

    If you push down on one side of the cone, you'll askew the cone in a very unnatural way.

    You ESPECIALLY shouldn't push anywhere on your cones while they are in operation, because you could "rock" the cone assembly causing it to strike or rub the side of the pole piece, or the side of the gap.
    REALLY bad idea.

    Of course, if you push down on one side of the cone, you'll tip it that way, and you'll potentially cause the former to rub on something that it shouldn't.
    That's not a bad sign...
    That's an "of course".

    If the Brahma is an older version, you might be experiencing lead slap - not against the cone, but against the outer roll of the spider.
    The cheap and effective homemade solution for this is to just glue a small layer of felt (similar to what's glued to your cone) to the outer roll of the spider, just below the leads. The one I have here has a cotton ball stretched and glued in place, and it worked.

    You might also look to where the tinsel leads are soldered to the metal tabs that go to the speaker terminals... sometimes you can simply gently bend these back a bit - or maybe in your case they are bent too far...
    That is the component that Adire had tweaked several times in an effort to fix the lead issues, the angle of those, and the actual length of the tinsels.

    One other possibility...
    If you've really beaten on this thing (if it's even in a medium enclosure, even 800 watts could do this), you could have overexcurted the driver... if you pulled the leads taught when you did this, you may have pulled them out from under the dustcap a bit, essentially leaving them too long under the cone, which would definitely cause lead slap. In that case, some servicing is in order.




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    Re: problem.no bashing this time

    Hmmm...is it worth the recone?



    2000 black Audi A6 2.8
    stock components
    RE HC15"
    tsunami 1100d (kills kids)
    building a 4^3cuft tuned to mid 30's

    some nasty sauce mixed in there.



    AIM - fincorny82 2000
    E-mail - [email protected]

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    Re: problem.no bashing this time

    Did you have to reglue the surrond? Alot of people have been dissatisfied with the gluing jobs they got on their woofers. The glue will usually peal up then if you try to reglue it but you arent extremely carefull, you might cause it to go a bit un-centered and it will probably start to rub the pole piece against its surroundings.




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    Re: problem.no bashing this time

    ok, so it's messed up, y not giv my method a try, if ur gonna get it fixed any way???? Just a question..



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    Re: problem.no bashing this time

    If you push down on one side of the cone, you'll askew the cone in a very unnatural way.

    You ESPECIALLY shouldn't push anywhere on your cones while they are in operation, because you could "rock" the cone assembly causing it to strike or rub the side of the pole piece, or the side of the gap.
    REALLY bad idea.

    Of course, if you push down on one side of the cone, you'll tip it that way, and you'll potentially cause the former to rub on something that it shouldn't.
    That's not a bad sign...
    That's an "of course".

    If the Brahma is an older version, you might be experiencing lead slap - not against the cone, but against the outer roll of the spider.
    The cheap and effective homemade solution for this is to just glue a small layer of felt (similar to what's glued to your cone) to the outer roll of the spider, just below the leads. The one I have here has a cotton ball stretched and glued in place, and it worked.

    You might also look to where the tinsel leads are soldered to the metal tabs that go to the speaker terminals... sometimes you can simply gently bend these back a bit - or maybe in your case they are bent too far...
    That is the component that Adire had tweaked several times in an effort to fix the lead issues, the angle of those, and the actual length of the tinsels.

    One other possibility...
    If you've really beaten on this thing (if it's even in a medium enclosure, even 800 watts could do this), you could have overexcurted the driver... if you pulled the leads taught when you did this, you may have pulled them out from under the dustcap a bit, essentially leaving them too long under the cone, which would definitely cause lead slap. In that case, some servicing is in order.
    Let me rephrase what I said. Im not a moron. I had the volume on my apline at about 9. The sub was barely monving, maybe 3 mm of excursion. If I gently rested my finger on the left side of the cone, where the surround was on the 13W7 that barely move anyway, then the noise would stop. I wasnte slamming the cone back while it was playing. AND DONT DO THAT IF YOUR A NEWB WHO READ THE FIRST PART OF THIS THREAD! Yeah anyway, your subs probably blown, plug it in and let it fly.




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    Re: problem.no bashing this time

    In that case, it sounds like it somehow already IS askew in that "shouldn't be crooked that way" sort of way...
    If you push on the one side of the cone and it goes away, you are effectively correcting that skew...
    So, conversely then, if you push on the OTHER side of the cone, the issue should get worse?

    If it's doing that, it's definitely time to send that thing in for service...
    Another possibility is that the motor is actually glued on off-center.. I saw an Orion XTR subwoofer like that once, really odd, really wrong, really defective... made the gap narrower on one side than the other, as if the T-yoke and top plate weren't aligned with each other as they should have been.




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    Re: problem.no bashing this time

    In conclusion I think that it's time for a brand new driver. I'm not giving Adire one more penny. They already have $369.00 of my money, and all I've had was 5 months worth of broken drivers. Time to look into some new solutions.



    2000 black Audi A6 2.8
    stock components
    RE HC15"
    tsunami 1100d (kills kids)
    building a 4^3cuft tuned to mid 30's

    some nasty sauce mixed in there.



    AIM - fincorny82 2000
    E-mail - [email protected]

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