CarAudio.com Elite
I would like to do some impressions and measurements on a pair of RL-P 12"s. My sub amp is a Mmats D3000.1. I can gain it down, if necessary. Experienced users of the RL-P drivers, please let me know if you think they will be ok on that kind of power. Enclosure is sealed internal net 1.35 cu. ft. per woof.
Tangled Up in Blue
It won't take 1.5kW in that box, that's for sure.
Maybe in a tiny box, but why do you feel the need to send it that much power? Power compression is certainly going to set in...
CarAudio.com Veteran
Youre best bet is to just talk to Mike from Soundsplinter, see what he recommends.I asked him about power for a box giving each sub 1.8, ported, and was told 500-800 each would be ideal.
CarAudio.com Elite
The reason I ask is because my sub amp can push unbelievable power. I'd still like to try the RL-P's out, but I'll need to gain-down, it looks like.
What kind of range are we looking at, as being "safe" (in Watts) and I'll keep them well below their limit. I had the original response from mr. SoundSplinter himself, but lost track of it (sorry man).
Tangled Up in Blue
I've heard of RL-p's being pushed to 1.2kW daily and taking it fine. Once you get over 1300wrms or so, I would be extremely cautious.
Remember, that sub only needs 750W or so to really get down to wangin'
CarAudio.com Elite
excellent info man. Thank you.
It's always nice to have "too much" power on tap (head room). Set it back to be safe and strap on the seat belt! *heh*
I have a handful of woofs I'm interested in checking out, but the RL-P's have piqued my interest more than any other.
I'm not looking for a replacement for my Type X's (which I'm lovin') -- I just like to play. However, if I trip over something my ear likes better, I'm all over it, and the Alpine's are out.
CarAudio.com Elite
Originally Posted by Jack Frost
I've heard of RL-p's being pushed to 1.2kW daily and taking it fine. Once you get over 1300wrms or so, I would be extremely cautious.
Remember, that sub only needs 750W or so to really get down to wangin'
Im sure i don't need to retype my story.Telling people that they can take 1200 watts daily is how my problems began. I've actually owned one and i can cleary say they CANNOT nor or made to take over 1000 watts.
Tangled Up in Blue
Just because they didn't work for you in one enclosure alignment, doesn't mean that they won't work in any application. I'm sure I didn't need to say that again, but apparently I did...
Like Tracy (Polecat) says...it's easy to blow drivers, it takes skill to keep them alive.
He asked if they could take 1.2kW daily. They can. It just takes knowledge of the enclosure and how the sub is going to react in that enclosure
CarAudio.com Elite
Well, if they can't take 1200 watts in a small sealed enclosure, why would they take that kind of power in a bigger lets say ported, enclosure?Just because they didn't work for you in one enclosure alignment, doesn't mean that they won't work in any application. I'm sure I didn't need to say that again, but apparently I did...
Like Tracy (Polecat) says...it's easy to blow drivers, it takes skill to keep them alive.
He asked if they could take 1.2kW daily. They can. It just takes knowledge of the enclosure and how the sub is going to react in that enclosure
Tangled Up in Blue
Exactly. I'm running my e12a off 1000w, but my PG Tantrum 1200.1 could be running 1450+ easy. It's always good to have that power on tap, in case you upgrade.It's always nice to have "too much" power on tap (head room). Set it back to be safe and strap on the seat belt! *heh*
1.5kW would be perfect for a dual RL-p setup (or a single RL-s setup, perhaps?)
CarAudio.com Elite
Exactly. I'm running my e12a off 1000w, but my PG Tantrum 1200.1 could be running 1450+ easy. It's always good to have that power on tap, in case you upgrade.
1.5kW would be perfect for a dual RL-p setup (or a single RL-s setup, perhaps?
No, you were right when you said dual. Please don't tell people that they can handle more power then they can, becasue that is when people buy the drivers then become dissapointed in them. The RL-P is good at 800 and under.
Senior VIP Member
Im sure i don't need to retype my story.
^^^^
Lets not start this again and do not believe above statement. I currently have a 12 Rl-p in a 2cuft box tune to 34hz running on a concept audio ccd1200. Off course if you know anything about setting gains you will that the amp should not be run at full tilt anyway. I also ran it off of a Mark Antony 25opcm @1ohm. I see no problem running them with that amp as long as you get the right info from the right people.
CarAudio.com Elite
No, you were right when you said dual. Please don't tell people that they can handle more power then they can, becasue that is when people buy the drivers then become dissapointed in them. The RL-P is good at 800 and under.
Nah, you got me wrong. Sorry for the confusion. I'm not trying to put 3000+Watts into a pair of these bad boys (unless they could easily handle it). That's just what my amp can do, if the circumstances were right.
I should have re-phrased the post. I just want to know what they can safely handle, so I can gain-down the amp for the RL-P's. That's all.
CarAudio.com Elite
No problem, its a nice sub.Im just saying they do not liek to be driven hard, they can and will bottom out on you if you drive them too hard. Id say 1000 is the max they can safetly handle.
am a mod.
why not just get four RLp's in a sealed box then?
lol
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