CAUTION!!! BE WARNED! PSI ripping off people.

[dumple]

how did you set gains, what was your bass boost and filter settings? you were self confessed noob so im guessing your gain was cranked to max then backed off a tad so id wasnt audibly distorting...

[grimreper912003]

Uh huh.... How are your grounds buddy bear?

[dumple]

Uh huh.... How are your grounds buddy bear?

also a good question, and what are your supporting voltage mods, proof of staying at 14v?

[Fi_]

how did you set gains, what was your bass boost and filter settings? you were self confessed noob so im guessing your gain was cranked to max then backed off a tad so id wasnt audibly distorting...

I was a noob to subwoofer BUILDING not systems themselves, I didnt know the significance between curtain parts. I set gains by EAR then checked with a dMM to see around what I was getting, so far NEVER ha d aproblem doing this except with the PSI I have youtube videos of me putting 1200RMS to my Stock Fi 15" using a DMM and it wasnt even warm on the thermo-reader. Bass boost off as always, im not a noob dude, and filter settings I set with a DMM as well usually 5hz below tuning for SSF and around 70hz for the LPF. But I have a HU that sets them for me so I usually just use that <3 pioneer.

and CRANKED tot he max? try half of halfway on my gain lmfao. 4v preout headunit ftw baby.

[Fi_]

No voltage mods I sit @ 14.4v I was only running like 800-1000rms man so it wouldnt drop that much haha. I'll take a video of it tommorow man I'll back all my statements up but its 10pm here right now and I can't really bump in my driveway. I told DAVE himself I was hitting 13.6v at the lowest BEFORE my BIG III and battery upgrade AFTER I hit a 14v all day. Now of course I run more like 1500rms @ .5ohm so I see more like 13.5v @ full tilt. and my grounds? my grounds are bare metal all day. Listen I'm not hating on anyone here fine if you disagree with me but do something OTHER than call me a noob just to nuthug dave. MAYBE for once HES wrong.

Im almost 100% sure he messed up a tinsel and when I got it I was only running 1 coil. Unfortunatly like I said at the time I didnt know how to check that ****, I just knew how to install and tune and make boxes.

[The_Grimy_One]

I was a noob to subwoofer BUILDING not systems themselves, I didnt know the significance between curtain parts. I set gains by EAR then checked with a dMM to see around what I was getting, so far NEVER ha d aproblem doing this except with the PSI I have youtube videos of me putting 1200RMS to my Stock Fi 15" using a DMM and it wasnt even warm on the thermo-reader. Bass boost off as always, im not a noob dude, and filter settings I set with a DMM as well usually 5hz below tuning for SSF and around 70hz for the LPF. But I have a HU that sets them for me so I usually just use that <3 pioneer.

and CRANKED tot he max? try half of halfway on my gain lmfao. 4v preout headunit ftw baby.

Do the 4200UB really have 4v? I miss my 5000UB. And isnt half of halfway a quarter?

[Fi_]

Do the 4200UB really have 4v? I miss my 5000UB. And isnt half of halfway a quarter?

Yep 4v preout all day man its why I bought it... and Yes it's haha sorry im pretty tired hence why my words are garbled and spelling is off a bit. I was running an AP1500.1D which do rated @ 14v I was only running 1000rms so you CANT blame the amplifier. Like I said either the sub just couldnt take it or he didnt solder a tinsel my fault for not sending it back for inspection but just by the way he was BLAMING ME for everything like some completely noob I felt it was useless I'd be better off fixing it myself for the price of shipping heh.

btw when I do recone with the XL softparts I will make a video SHOWING the sub ACTUALLY working and not getting hot as proof, I'll even set it by EAR I'll make a whole **** video of it believe I'll be back with tons MORE proof for the nay sayers.

and why do you guys think outta all his friends he TOOK ME off his list (before I made this topic I realized he took me off and re-added him to see if he'd add me sure enough he DIDNT) hes scared im going to post on his wall :-p

[dumple]

never set my filters with dmm but have set my gain with dmm, runnin "only 1000 watts" doesnt mean you wont have drop, and audiopipes might do rated power but they arnt the be all end all high quality equipment, I think they are garbage. If you clipped it the tinsel coulda snapped, Im not hugging PSI's nuts, I dont own, never have and prolly wont(due to me loving my mag)

[Fi_]

never set my filters with dmm but have set my gain with dmm, runnin "only 1000 watts" doesnt mean you wont have drop, and audiopipes might do rated power but they arnt the be all end all high quality equipment, I think they are garbage. If you clipped it the tinsel coulda snapped, Im not hugging PSI's nuts, I dont own, never have and prolly wont(due to me loving my mag)

By that logic my DC's should have done the same thing believe I tested them on the AP after (sold the AP to my friend as well as my FI) and neigther of them got warm off the SAME settings haha man I need to vlog all this crap next time (I will since theres so many non-believers I will go back and do all this testing AGAIN just hope nobody closes my thread.) and for price/performance they are FAR from garbage just crappy if you plan to save on electrical.

and I didnt have drop I swear tommorow I will show my Jeep has ZERO drop even with MORE power and a LOWER impedance than the AP I'll even CLIP my DC's on purpose and make my voltage go below 13v and show they don't get warm. Good thing I have a heat gun on my DMM

Also the AP1500.1D IS .5 ohm stable (so hows it garbage?) my friend was running his AQ HDC3 off of it @ .5 ohms heh... know whats funny? he has the copper coil version and it took it like a champ, guess that nullifies my amp being the problem huh?


Tommorow I'll show my grounds, show my voltage, meter the heat on my DC's off more power, I'll show how I tuned and how I setup, I'll show you my PSI and the soft parts where the tinsel broke, I'll show how it WAS NOT mushroomed from bottoming out. I will basically disprove EVERYTHING dave claimed.

The part that DOESNT get old is the fact that he talks **** about FI and DC like his sub will be better and both my FI and my DC (single not the pair) handle more power, sound better.

[Fi_]

IF you look at the video this is a year ago when I first got it (loud huh?) as you can see no bottoming out or distorting (you cant hear it but the tinsel is slapping like a ***** in this video.) You can also see how I state 13.5v (this is idle) and 1000rms. Yeah I'm lying huh? also if you look carefully you can see it's sitting @ 14v by the end of the video it was hot as hell thats how quick it got hot and I mean too hot to touch the **** dustcap and this was my first time playing it really. Also yes this is my house etc. and my truck, so I wasnt lying about having 2 vehicles, 2 systems and plenty of moneyz. (not bragging im far from rich haha.)




This was my FI 15" SSD STOCK off the SAME amp @ 1000rms (2 ohms) and it NEVER got warm (even had it in a prefab) as you can tell it was about as loud as the 18" even. and thats WITH a Pioneer HU that had like 2v preout and probably caused some clipping. Also it was winter so I was only htting about 13v idle.


This is the AQ HDC3 running off my AQ1500.1D @ .5ohm, NEVER got warm, it was ALSO in my 7cft 27hz box if you ask me MY BOX and the AMP are RULED OUT, unless daves ready to admit his sub that COSTS MORE than the AQ18" is NOT as good... bet hes scared he'd lose buisiness to AQ then huh?


Bottom line, Dave deceives customers into thinking his brand sounds better and handles more power in the price range compared to companies like: DC, FI, AA etc. Then he turns around and uses cheap parts (which is fact.) then when they break he doesn't back them funny thing is I paid about $400 for this and $350 for BOTH my DC's and eachone handles more power and sound better, he also charges more than the competitors for recones (that arent even as good.) and rediculous shipping prices (most the time.) Small companies REQUIRE good product and prices to compete, not false hopes and dreams backed with his excuses when his product fails not only that my subs missing parts that were on the sheet plain and simple I didnt ask for 2 9" I asked for 3 spiders even if it's the same thing its NOT what I asked for... It's not just me it's a lot of people, random people. talk to Andrew Rususki he had the SAME problem with his 18" but that was a platform 2 with a bigger coil and it couldnt even handle 1500rms without getting freakishly hot.

Seriously if I knew more about subs at the time I WOULD have not have bought this knowing it was a 2.5" coil, single sewn leads (non woven), 2 spiders etc. I woulda just bought an AQ or soemthing but now im off topic and ranting a bit and for that I apoligize it just heated me up a little that Dave would come in here and TRY to defend himself in the wrong.

[hispls]

Better in reverse has a tc9 that takes 2k rms on a 3" coil

And I've run a pair of TC-2000's off a Stetsom 7K

Clamp a true 1500W sine wave to that and let me know how long it lasts. Probably a while, but it will burn eventually....better yet, try it with a clipped sine wave.

I have a 12" sub that "takes" over 6KW.....at above 50hz and for about a minute and a half before the coil went slinky. Personally I would say over 1200W to a 3" coil at your own risk. Know what you're doing and understand a woofer's limits and you'll do allright, but expecting a 3" coil to not get hot with an amp that runs 1500W at 10% distortion is absurd and IMO companies either shouldn't rate woofers that high, or have a thermal and mechanical rating (separately).

[dumple]

your fault for using a "faulty" subwoofer and then complaining

[Ninesvnsicks]

IF you look at the video this is a year ago when I first got it (loud huh?) as you can see no bottoming out or distorting (you cant hear it but the tinsel is slapping like a ***** in this video.) You can also see how I state 13.5v (this is idle) and 1000rms. Yeah I'm lying huh?

Hey that dash loos familiar hehe and I played the same song when I first got my sa-12's in my jeep lol. I really need to take a video of my setup to see what it does not sure where to go to do it I don't want to **** off the neighbor lol. Let me ask you do you have comps in the front?

[TheUnderFighter]

Chill man, you don't gotta keep repeating yourself, if people don't wanna believe what you said, so be it.
PSI did say he could offer to warranty it and get ya a new one it sounded like though? I woulda just jumped on that. Either way, you've made your point. You're not looking for a refund. I'm not trying to hate on you or anything (I'm actually quite impressed and jealous of your electrical system), but if you are looking to make a home at this new forum, just trying to help ya out.

[TeamPSI]

Jesse,
I am going to post one last time, in an effort to clarify some things that you seemingly still do not "get". I'm just going to quote you, then reply.

Well at first I was happy with my 18" it friggin slammed I thanked him like no other haha then it started heating upa nd I explained how I set it up and he said: "you're clipping it back it down." So I backed it down it still got warm and was barely even loud, so I hooked it upto a DMM to see what voltage I was getting and it was around 800-1000rms (STILL GETTING WARM) so I explained to him my voltage, my amplifier and everyhting ive tried and he told me it was the amplifier.... So I bought a DC 1.2K and it STILL got warm off 800-1000RMS. BTW I DIDNT BREAK the tinsel it was either broken when I got it or the subwoofer just couldnt handle the power and it broke or something.

What I told you then, and will tell you now, is that you were clipping the amplifier. It has just as much to do with amplifier and headunit settings, batteries, alternators, and wiring than it does with the actual amplifier itself. Running out and buying a DC1200 watt amplifier will not alleviate clipping issues.

Just as you are doing now, you didn't take the time to listen to what was actually said. You were never told that buying a new amp would solve your issues. In fact, you may have worsened the problem with a bigger amp.

I explained to him the subwoofer could NOT handle 1600RMS daily and that I wanted him to fix it (NOT A REFUND) I even offered to send it back so he could see for himself and he insisted I had to pay shipping both ways (80$+) I said **** that when I can get a recone for $40 more..

As with any shipped product, you are responsible for paying the cost to return it in a warranty situation. We are not alone in this policy. Most any manufacturer is going to have you pay to ship an item back.

What you were told about the shipping fees on the way back was that you would have to pay the shipping IF we did not warranty the failure. If we had warranted it, we would have paid the cost to ship it. We never got that far though, since you never sent it to us.

heh. Point is dave knew he was in the wrong and blamed ME and my amplifier for it,

No, I blamed your install completely, not the amplifier solely. Your amplifier settings were completely incorrect from the get-go. Poor settings and insufficient equipment are the root causes of the sub's issues.

Also he SAID it would have sewn leads I didn't realize until now actually that it said they aren't I paid extra for those spiders and those leads,

They ARE sewn leads. I do not understand why you cannot see that they are clearly sewn to the spider. We DO NOT use spiders with leads interwoven into them, if that's what you expected.

I also paid extra for a Daily 1600RMS subwoofer even though it was only a platform 1. I could have gotten a platform 2 with bigger magnet and coil for that price now since he changed the platform prices.

I am also baffled as to why you do not get this... Your sub IS A PLATFORM 2 18". It was called a Platform 1 when you ordered it. It is now called a Platform 2. If you ordered a Platform 2 18" from us today, you would get the subwoofer that you got a year ago. Only the name has changed.

Once again, your sub was a 2010 model Platform 1 18", which is now referred to as a Platform 2.

If you had bought a Platform 2 in 2010, you would have been buying what is now the Platform 3.

Our new Platform 1 is smaller than the sub that you bought from us. It is slightly bigger than you DC Level 3 motor.

How did he CLEAR his name? because he came back and spewed a bunch of crap? and how am I a crybaby? because I was ripped off? I'm not the first bud. Dave how about you clear your name by repairing my subwoofer for free bud? nah didn't think so.

Maybe if you had actually sent it back before wall-socketing it, and calling me and my company a rip off.

You get more flies with honey than you do vinegar.

First off I was semi noob at the time and you TOOK advantage of me.

YES, and no.

Second you said that box was fine and it would handle lows fine below 27hz and 7cft. 3rd YOU said I bottomed the subwoofer out I DID NOT, you blamed everything on my and my amplifier without a second of blame for yourself. Explain why your subwoofer can't handle what smaller woofers can? Explain why it broke when I've NEVER blown a subwoofer, explain how it was HOT off less power than 1600RMS daily. You can't , stop trying to rob your customers I've had 4 or 5 people on facebook tell me they have had similar problems and opted for new subs.

I believe that I have explained all of this to you, multiple times.

So you gave me a 2.5" 4 layer coil and expected it to handle 1600rms daily?!...

The coil is a 3" diameter coil. If you read what I posted, it is 2.5" LONG. If your info is correct about your new DC Level 3 (w/ LVL4 coil).... it has a slightly smaller coil than what we sent you.

Not only that I ASKED for 3 spiders igaf if they were 9" or not you didnt give me 3 spiders and you never told me you werent adding the 3rd. I will not be buying from you again and a lot of others I told about this will not be, everyone here can think what they want but I hardly think you justified yourself.

3 spiders would have been too much for your sub. It would have performed worse with an additional spider, not better! You'd have gotten less output with another spider, and would have clipped the amp even faster trying to get it moving.

You blame the coil for not being good enough, due to excessive clipping.
You blame the spiders for there not being enough of them, which really has no relation to the heat issue.
You blame the sewn leads for not being sewn.

I stopped talking to you because I wasn't getting anywhere I'm not rude by nature but it annoys me that you think you can take advantage of people, you using cheap parts must be why 5-10 others have complained and this topic has almost 30 likes, stop trying to fool people man.

We actually sell parts to other companies, companies that you seem to approve of! Our parts are as good or better than anyone else's man. You can claim whatever you'd like, but you really have no idea about what parts are cheap, and which ones aren't. I can buy the cones that DC uses for less than what we buy ours for.... if that makes you feel any better.

It's funny concidering my DC's take more power alone than your 18" did isn't that weird?! huh and its funny because YOU SAID "This 18" will sound BETTER and perform BETTER than ANY DC you can get in the price range." Funny concidering my DC for only $180 tools on it... I can put 1600 on my DC and clip them and they barely get warm, your sub off 1000rms got hella hot.

People who are a little more "in the know" are laughing loudly at this statement Jesse. Ask around about where the DC's products came from. I know plenty about them.

If you have TWO DC Level 3's, I surely hope that they will handle more combined power than a single one of our mid-line subs.

YOu ASSUMED I bottomed the woofer out you have ZERO proof, I was working with you for awhile trying to fix it in the end it was YOUR FAULT.

Again, I'm sorry that you feel that way, but I disagree. I feel that your issues arose from inexperience, and that as the seller, we did what we should have to assist you. You were offered advice on how to fix the issue. Some of it you took, some you didn't.

You should have sent the subwoofer back 6 months ago when we spoke about it. It is not my place to force you to send it back. You've said already that money is no object in your life, so getting it to us should not have been an issue. If the sub had been sent to us, we would all have the real story about what part failed, if it had been bottomed out, if it had been overpowered, etc. All of this is easily learned by cutting the sub apart.... WITHOUT plugging it into the wall beforehand.

Anyway...

Maybe you've learned some more about systems, products, and how to install them since then. Maybe you will never have another issue with any piece of audio equipment from now on. Hopefully so man!

Best of luck to you, and goodbye.

David


Oh, and PS - You've been blocked from our Facbook because of posting childish comments in our posts. Like the lovely "JUNK" that I just got done deleting from our page, righ before blocking you.