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  1. #76
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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    Quote Originally Posted by DeathtoToasters
    Is there a recommened Sound dampening material? I obviously know of Dynomat...how about cascade?
    Any quality dampener will work. My personal favorite thus far is Raammat (www.raamaudio.com).

    But, SecondSkin, HushMat, FatMat, B-Quiet, Mad Mat, etc etc will all work.

    I have just heard some stories form local shops about using bad material and the whole car smells like tar or something like that!
    Yeah. Some (most?) asphalt based deadeners will smell like that. Anything I listed above you won't have any problem like that, however.

    Also good places to purchase it online at some good prices?
    Like I said; I'd recommend Raammat at the address I listed above. Excellent product at an excellent price. Rick (the owner) is an awesome guy aswell. Works better IMO than my SecondSkin Damplifier. And IMO works just as well as Dynamat Extreme for ~1/3 the cost.







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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    Second Skin = teh b0mz0r



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  3. #78
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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    Quote Originally Posted by MetalMaxima
    Second Skin = teh b0mz0r

    I have no idea what that says, or means.




  4. #79
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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    Well, I can tell you that SecondSkin is excellent - both Damplifier and Damplifier PRO. BTW, I have heard that linoleum works well to fill the holes on the door, double it up on the big holes (glue 2 layers together).




  5. #80
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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    I just added some clay to my GF's car over the weekend. It made a very noticable difference. I went to an art supply store and got some clay the has a melting point of 150. I think it's called Roma Prima. It looks like a stick of butter except that it weighs a pound. I got that kind because there are four different levels of firmness. The highest level is really tough but never hardens. Heat it up in the microwave for about 3 minutes or until it is workable and go to town. It is oil based, so be careful and make sure you use a glass dish or something comparable. My theory is that even if your car reaches the melting point, the stuff is so firm that I think it would take a lot more to actually melt off, plus it's stiffer which is always a good thing.

    The clay is called Roma Plastina.
    Last edited by juckstapose; 08-23-2005 at 07:20 PM.




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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    What about plumber's putty? That isn't going to melt.




  7. #82
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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    I dont see why you couldnt use that. But i think its the density of the clay that makes it "deaden". Plumbers putty is not as dense.




  8. #83
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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    When the door si deadened like that does the outer skin still vibrate on heavy midbass? How is the music from the exterior of the car? Without the deadener it can be heared. With the deadener the volume increases of course, but how about the outer level? I have my doors deadened with flashing tape. It made quite a big improvement though I did not pay much attention to the outer skin because of lack of material when the job was done. It (outer skin) still vibrates a lot, so I guess "music" is lost there. I guess I will open them again and cover them completely in 2 layers of flashing tape. That would be ~3mm of deadener.




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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    Quote Originally Posted by onobeka
    When the door si deadened like that does the outer skin still vibrate on heavy midbass?
    Very very little, when done properly.

    How is the music from the exterior of the car?
    Quieter, but still audible when cranked

    With the deadener the volume increases of course, but how about the outer level?
    Like I said. It will typically still be audible when jamming, but when done right there should be a noticeable decrease, especially if you use a barrier loading material such as open or closed cell foam.




  10. #85
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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    Hi, any material used for sound reduction will work true? i dont live in usa, this deadening material is actually like an aluminum foil that sticks to a surface when applied?? and why always the speakers in the doors are rounded not oval, and usually they are 2 ways not 3. Any thoughts? thx




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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    Most will do the job.
    Its aluminum backed to make it hold the concours better.
    round speakers are better
    3 way components cost a considerable amount more than 2 way components




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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    If you get your car proffesionally deadened instad of doing it yourself how mcuh does that normally cost?




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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    Quote Originally Posted by baseballer1100
    If you get your car proffesionally deadened instad of doing it yourself how mcuh does that normally cost?

    Way too much.

    Figure most shops charge $50-$75/hr.....and it would take them no less than 2 hours even for a minor deadening job with disassembly/reassembling your vehicle, etc etc. For a major deadening job, it would take probably 10-15 hours, if not more.


    And that doesn't even include the cost of the product itself.




  14. #89
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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    I got quoted $400-500 from tweeter including materials (Dynamat) for the trunk and doors. They refused to use a product other than theirs.

    I ended up doing it myself and it isnt hard at all except its time consuming.



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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    its the time going to kjill me and the inexperience




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