is deadening the outer skin of your door necessary? im gonna use a deflex pad but im just wondering if i should deaden the entire outer skin too. the inner frame is already deadened.

is deadening the outer skin of your door necessary? im gonna use a deflex pad but im just wondering if i should deaden the entire outer skin too. the inner frame is already deadened.
yes yes yes yes yes yes yesOriginally Posted by JAZN
so many vibrations come from the outer skin of your door because it
a) deflects vibrations from your speakers all over the place causing distortion
b) is a relatively thin piece of metal and vibrates like mad. feel your door from the outside when you have your speakers up high, they hum and buzz like a thousand bees.
c) everyone says your supposed to, the above reasons are just thinking logically/realistically
Owner of Post 22,222 in THE Thread.
My friends door panels flex nicely from his sub.
Since we're on the subject, here is a pic of the speaker OEM speaker rings on my car...would anyone recommend using the MDF rings in addition to the method listed here?
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HU - Alpine 9833
FRONTSTAGE - Dynaudio MW170, MD 100, Morel Domes (all passive)
REAR-FILL - Rainbow SL 165
SUB - 2 x 12" Alumapro Alchemy RX
AMPS - Arc Audio XXK-4150/2500
WIRING - Stinger Expert
SQ CABIN 160sqft. Damplifier, 120sqft. Spectrum, 100sqft. Hazmat, 80sqft. Spectrum Sludge...[/SIZE]
Plastic resonates quite nicely if not deadned.
What i normally do is get rid of the stock rings ( most aftermarket speakers dont fit them) and make some custom MDF ones.
Last edited by supa_c; 06-08-2005 at 01:01 PM.
Ok, looks like I'll be doing some ring cutting. Thanks!Originally Posted by supa_c
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HU - Alpine 9833
FRONTSTAGE - Dynaudio MW170, MD 100, Morel Domes (all passive)
REAR-FILL - Rainbow SL 165
SUB - 2 x 12" Alumapro Alchemy RX
AMPS - Arc Audio XXK-4150/2500
WIRING - Stinger Expert
SQ CABIN 160sqft. Damplifier, 120sqft. Spectrum, 100sqft. Hazmat, 80sqft. Spectrum Sludge...[/SIZE]
Use a carbide cutting wheel with a rotary tool such as a Dremel. Worked wonders for me.Originally Posted by twoohfour
HU - Alpine 9833
FRONTSTAGE - Dynaudio MW170, MD 100, Morel Domes (all passive)
REAR-FILL - Rainbow SL 165
SUB - 2 x 12" Alumapro Alchemy RX
AMPS - Arc Audio XXK-4150/2500
WIRING - Stinger Expert
SQ CABIN 160sqft. Damplifier, 120sqft. Spectrum, 100sqft. Hazmat, 80sqft. Spectrum Sludge...[/SIZE]
wow, my spelling ****** in that post

Originally Posted by jntar
Update.
Tried the egg crate out. Works very well, mid range frequencys dont sound so "under water" I spent $1.50 on it too. Took about 30 min to install with silicone. Added more deadener to my doors. The clay worked pretty good at sealing the little inperfections I had leftover after the fist two rounds of deadeneing. Tried the plexi idea with a sheet of balsa wood I had lying around, but my doors are too large and the door skin wouldnt allow me to install it.
All in all tis a great tutorial.
I highly recommend deadening the inside of the outer door skin, it made a huge difference with mine. But I disagree with not using liquid deadener. It may take longer, yes, but with a brush you can reach areas that you can't with a mat.
'06 Civic Sedan
Clarion DXZ855MP
PPI PC4800.2
ID CTX65CS
IDQ10v3
Second Skin deadened

bah i paid 30 bucks for my deflex pads, then again i do see water inside my door on rainy days. nice to see more positive comments on this stuff working, i have my liquid deadener on the way for my outer skin now.Originally Posted by jntar

i wanna cover up the holes with mdf. good idea? if so, is 1/2" thick enough?

Should workOriginally Posted by JAZN
Don't see why notif so, is 1/2" thick enough?
to start off would it be affective if i just cover the outside of the door panel like thiscause i only have 24 sq ft (2 dynamat extreme dookits) will that still be affective?
You should notice the difference
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