Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

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Originally Posted by ironchef b

By any chance do you or someone else have any pics of this application especially the bolded part???

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I will be taking pics as I do it. I have seen pics online, and it seems to work well, for the cost. (Some) luxury cars have this foam from the factory.

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Originally Posted by phenryiv1

I will be taking pics as I do it. I have seen pics online, and it seems to work well, for the cost. (Some) luxury cars have this foam from the factory.

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This and your previous post were very helpful. Thank you.

I need some info on deadners. RAAMmat, Second Skin, E Dead, the list goes on. Well which is better and why? Is there any that I should stay away from?

Thanks!

Go here, read this:

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

Then go here to get the best stuff:

http://www.secondskinaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi

And check out the forum there for more good info and help

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Originally Posted by mntnceguy

Go here, read this:

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

Then go here to get the best stuff:

http://www.secondskinaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi

And check out the forum there for more good info and help

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Good reading Thanks! :thumbupw:

I went with RAAMmat for the floors, backwall, rear doors and misc and the SecondSkin for the front doors. Now I just need time to do it!!!!

Has anyone tried this spray-on deadener from Cascade at Parts Express?

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=268-250

It only costs $16 per can, and it is supposed to cover at least one door per can. Granted, I have a 2 door with longer than normal doors, but this would be much much cheaper for me and I am on a strict budget. I just want some deadening to improve my midbass and not add a ton of weight. I would also be plugging up the holes in my door skin and adding a closed cell foam egg shell pad behind my speakers. Would it be worth it?

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Originally Posted by XanderMoser

Has anyone tried this spray-on deadener from Cascade at Parts Express?

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=268-250

It only costs $16 per can, and it is supposed to cover at least one door per can. Granted, I have a 2 door with longer than normal doors, but this would be much much cheaper for me and I am on a strict budget.

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Consider that you need about 3 to 4 cans to properly dampen a single door, it becomes less and less affordable.
Go with full gallon and split it up between 2 doors. That would be better

ANT
www.secondskinaudio.com

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Originally Posted by Sragan

Now, after that long winded explanation to my disagreement, here's the short version. Decoupling or isolating the speaker is strictly so the speaker can perform optimally, not simply to improve bass response (it's a byproduct), although for the more younger crowd, an easier way to get them into the habit of doing things properly (but along the way, let's tell 'em why). I will agree, MDF as a spacer ring to replace the plastic rings in factory locations is a good thing, and while clay will isolate the speaker, why risk the mess when a simple foam gasket will do the trick for a solidly mounted speaker/spacer? Not to mention, no one here knows the rate at which the clay will deteriorate over time, if it does at all.

}[/i]

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Can Anyone chime in on this? Should I just use foam as opposed to clay for reasons as stated by Sragan? I do agree with him as far as rate at which clay will deteriorate, esp during hot summers and open/closing doors often (clay shifting of sliding downwards).

1992 Civic LX Deadening Job pics.... at the following link

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=225604

Maybe I missed it in the 20 pages of this thread, but those of you who have used this technique:

what did you use to treat the MDF?

Cause if it gets wet or collects to much moisture it will warp and crack.

Thankx

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Originally Posted by AMA

Maybe I missed it in the 20 pages of this thread, but those of you who have used this technique:

what did you use to treat the MDF?

Cause if it gets wet or collects to much moisture it will warp and crack.

Thankx

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I never treated the MDF and I've had it in there for more than a year now and no signs of cracking or warping. Besides, couldn't treating it cause it to become resonant?

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Originally Posted by AMA

Maybe I missed it in the 20 pages of this thread, but those of you who have used this technique:

what did you use to treat the MDF?

Cause if it gets wet or collects to much moisture it will warp and crack.

Thankx

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I made my spacers out of high-density PVC that was 1" thick. I used roll deadener as a gasket between the spacer and the door.

it was expensive (as compared to MDF) but it will never rot out.

I personally always use a weather proof spray paint and do 3-4 coats just for caution... i dont see many people treat their wood often but i personally do... In general i like to use the apliance epoxy spray paint... its like 5 bucks a can but i have only gone through two cans in about 7 years...

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Originally Posted by WantedIsHere

I personally always use a weather proof spray paint and do 3-4 coats just for caution... i dont see many people treat their wood often but i personally do... In general i like to use the apliance epoxy spray paint... its like 5 bucks a can but i have only gone through two cans in about 7 years...

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I also like to treat my wood often :naughty:. Sorry, I just had to say it :laugh:.

just started deadening my doors today. question for people in the know. im a plumber and we've got plumbers putty that we use to seal up sink drains, shower drains, and basically anything we want to prevent from leaking - ive swiped a few containers from my van to use on the mdf rings.

the container says "keep away from strong oxidizers"
--problem= im not a scientist.

can i use this putty instead of clay?