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Reload Thread: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

  1. #241
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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    Quote Originally Posted by lil azn 06
    **** it took me 2 hours just to clean one frigging door... i still havent even applied dynomat on either...
    Yep it's a time consuming process. I bet I have 50-60 hours in deadening and sound proofing SO FAR But this includes having practically my entire interior out.

    If you guys need a place for a lot of this stuff that is relatively cheap, go to www.mcmaster.com They sell the acoustical foam, sound deadening, vibration control materials, and all sorts of cool stuff.

    I have no particular allegiance to any company or brand (unless they want to sponsor me [hint!!] ) so I just use the most cost effective stuff I know of that works. The best product comparison I have ever seen is at www.sounddeadenershowdown.com

    Also, for those of you in colder climates, make sure you get something that is heavy and sticky because glue and frozen steel don't match up very well. That is why I chose Sludge because it won't fall off.

    Here is my experience with eDead (I'm talking specifically about the original asphalt based peal n seal):

    I put 2 layers of roofing repair tape that I got at Home Depot on my god forsaken heat shield last fall...yes underneath my car....and it is still going strong to this day - all winter long!! Keep in mind that this no more than a foot from the ground at all times, so it takes some abuse as it just gets caked with snow and salt and has survived the bitter cold temperatures down to -20 and the extreme heat from the midpipe which is like 3" away!!!

    Now everytime I open my doors in the spring the f'ing eDead has started to fall off and is litterally just kind of hanging there. It sticks about as well as your *** going down a Slip 'n Slide!! I would take pics, but it is totally covered in SS Sludge.

    This is Don's conclusion after all his testing and product comparison at sounddeadenershowdown:

    If you really need to do this in the absolutely least expensive way and are not convinced or concerned by the demonstrated inferiority of asphalt based sound deadeners, go to Home Depot or Lowes and get a roll or two of Peel & Seal. This is the least expensive option and you won't have to worry about shipping costs. I can see no difference in Peel & Seal and the asphalt based aluminum skinned products in this review. If you are going to live dangerously, do it right.



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  2. #242
    lil azn 06's Avatar
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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    Heres the door CLEANED... one whole day cleaning both doors... i hope applying dynamat is much faster...







    I do have a question though. In this pic you will see i put dynamat over the metal bar as well. MY question is, do i cut and put on an extra piece to cover the metal bar and use other pieces to go on the flat surfaces or does it not matter and i could cover up the flat part with the bar with one piece of dynamat?

    Do i do this and put on seperate piece for the bar or



    altogether like this?




    Lastly, is 2 layers on the outer most panel more important or 2 layers on the inner panel more important? What do i do about parts i cant reach in the outer door panel? Just ignore it?
    Thanks




  3. #243
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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    Well first of all nice job on getting your doors prepped...**** those are clean!! In my door I just skipped the reinforcement bar all together I think. It looks like you got the skin well enough underneath the bar by the looks of your pics.

    I would say that you would defineately want to put that second layer on the inner panel where the speaker is mounted rather than on the skin. Dynamat will help with a little with road keeping noise out and keeping your stereo noise in, but if you want to keep the road noise out then you want to use something like carpet padding or closed cell foam. If you've ever seen a recoding studio, the walls are covered with acoustical foam, not Dynamat!!

    If you can't reach way up in there, then you can't reach way up in there! So yea, you will have to either ignore it or get really creative.

    Nice work so far. Like anything else, you might as well do it right the first time. Kind of sux that those connecting rods are so long and in the way like that. You should be able to unscrew the handle and get underneath there with out bending them though.

    I would suggest maybe rolling it down or using a plastic puddy knife to secure it to the surface a bit better. If you already did then nevermind, it's hard to tell from the pics.



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    The most expensive solution is the one that doesn't do the job correctly. ~ Me

  4. #244
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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    Its raining... I seriously hope my doors arent getting dirty or im going to be pissed off.




  5. #245
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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    I had 2 gal of Eduh liquid stuff and it ****** too... it was too thick to spray on and I had to apply it by hand which was ghey!
    Last edited by AcidicDreams; 03-14-2006 at 11:54 PM.



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  6. #246
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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    Ya for real that is mad clean man! Props on that!



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  7. #247
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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    Quote Originally Posted by FrEnChYII
    Ya for real that is mad clean man! Props on that!
    Thanks

    Some more pics of it, i basically completely deadened the outer most skin on both doors, put 2 layers before the speaker as well with new clay and with the baffles removed and realized i ran out of time before my quickie vacation (during Spring Break) and nearly ran out of Dynamat....






    All in all, i notice a HUGE difference in bass tightness already ( didnt even deaden the inner door skin really) plus when i knock on the door on the outside it dont sound hollow as before. OVerall the 3 days of work were worth it, and i also got a 9855 nicely setup and installed.




  8. #248
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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    Mmmmm. Profi kicks. Looks familiar ;D
    Do the inner skin door. Trust us -- there's more to deadened, especially if you're running those massive midbasses.

    The real test is to see if any ungodgly boom, rattle, is transmitted outside while the music is at it's highest inside.

    Kind of nice wrapping your knuckes on the outside door eh? Sounds German. Yaaa.




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  10. #249
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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    Quote Originally Posted by lil azn 06
    Thanks

    Some more pics of it, i basically completely deadened the outer most skin on both doors, put 2 layers before the speaker as well with new clay and with the baffles removed and realized i ran out of time before my quickie vacation (during Spring Break) and nearly ran out of Dynamat....






    All in all, i notice a HUGE difference in bass tightness already ( didnt even deaden the inner door skin really) plus when i knock on the door on the outside it dont sound hollow as before. OVerall the 3 days of work were worth it, and i also got a 9855 nicely setup and installed.
    Definitely do the inner door skin, you think you notice a difference now? Wait till you do that. And also, seal up those big *** holes, you seal all those holes up on your inner panel and you'll have a HUGE increase in midbass.





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  11. #250
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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    Bodega Bay, you are using Profi kickbass? what are you powering it with?

    Decado, i still dont know what to do about the door locking bars, its still going to leave an open space up there. any suggestions?

    thanks




  12. #251
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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    Lil: Yes, I'm currently running the CS265 Profi Kicks and believe me, you will need to line the inner door sking. I'm currently running them with passive x-overs with 320w per channel bridging the Arc 4150XXK. However, they do more than fine at 80w per using the same Arc but unbridged.




  13. #252
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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    Quote Originally Posted by lil azn 06
    Bodega Bay, you are using Profi kickbass? what are you powering it with?

    Decado, i still dont know what to do about the door locking bars, its still going to leave an open space up there. any suggestions?

    thanks
    I can't rly see your locking bars, but what i did with mine was got some foam egg crate and packed it in there around the locking bar, it could still move but it helps attenuate. Polyfill will work too.





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  14. #253
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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    Thanks for all the great info. I amd in the process of cutting od shapes and sizes of MDF to plug the doors.




  15. #254
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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    Great thread, hopefully I will start deadening soon, as the wife permits.

    I was thinking of getting RAAMAT BXT, and some of their closed cell foam.




  16. #255
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    Re: Proper Door Sound Deadening and You

    Quote Originally Posted by ICBM99
    Great thread, hopefully I will start deadening soon, as the wife permits.

    I was thinking of getting RAAMAT BXT, and some of their closed cell foam.
    I just ordered both of that stuff and getting it soon. Rick is a great guy to talk to and deal with. Nice choice.




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