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    derek33's Avatar
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    Buying a component set piece by piece.

    Unless i buy a new sub, i have around 300 for a new component set. I have two mtx 8302 amps that are available for use for these components, but i dont need to use both. they put out 120 watts at 4 ohm x 2.

    I was thinking of a koda 8 or 6 as the midwoofer, what do you guys recomend for the cross overs and the tweets? I want most bass out of these components since i wont be running a woofer.

    thanks



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    Re: Buying a component set piece by piece.

    Quote Originally Posted by derek33
    Unless i buy a new sub, i have around 300 for a new component set. I have two mtx 8302 amps that are available for use for these components, but i dont need to use both. they put out 120 watts at 4 ohm x 2.

    I was thinking of a koda 8 or 6 as the midwoofer, what do you guys recomend for the cross overs and the tweets? I want most bass out of these components since i wont be running a woofer.

    thanks
    you could use both amplifers to run a active setup....




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    Re: Buying a component set piece by piece.

    Quote Originally Posted by Naxis2k1
    you could use both amplifers to run a active setup....

    x2

    Coustic XM6 is pretty great for the price.




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    Re: Buying a component set piece by piece.

    Also, just wanted to point out that the Koda 8 wouldn't be a great option for a 2-way set, as it is rather limited in top end extension. I'd only go with the Koda 8 if you were doing horns aswell, or a 3-way set with a dedicated midrange. Cause the Koda 8 doesn't play high enough to mate with a tweeter.




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    Re: Buying a component set piece by piece.

    whats an active setup?

    and i could just go for a koda 6.



    God's my co-pilot... but the Devil is ridin' shotgun!


    Car: 97 Grand Cherokee v8. 318ci.

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    Re: Buying a component set piece by piece.

    active is using a x-over and sending only the signal you want to the amp. then only that frequency range will be amplified and sent out. ex: you can use 1 amp to run tweets and 1 for mids. its great stuff because you can tweek everything to be so clean sounding.




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    Re: Buying a component set piece by piece.

    Quote Originally Posted by squeak9798
    x2

    Coustic XM6 is pretty great for the price.
    You mention Coustic every now and then, do you have a connection with them or do you just like their equipment. My first two crossovers and amps were Coustic, tear.




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    Re: Buying a component set piece by piece.

    Quote Originally Posted by HAVINGFUN
    You mention Coustic every now and then, do you have a connection with them or do you just like their equipment. My first two crossovers and amps were Coustic, tear.

    LOL...no. I have "some" of their gear from the mid-90's (Design Reference series; their high end line from back in the day).

    It's just that for a good affordable active crossover, their XM6 is pretty hard to beat. You can find them on egay BNIB w/ warranty (from thestereodirect, the Mitek authorized clearing house) for around 100 shipped.




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    Re: Buying a component set piece by piece.

    Quote Originally Posted by derek33
    and i could just go for a koda 6.
    Unless you are doing a 3-way, I'd definitely recommend it.




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    Re: Buying a component set piece by piece.

    i dont have enough money for a 3way, and i cant use kickpanels cause i realized my foot goes right where the kick panel would be. just my comfort.

    my amps put out 120 at 4 ohm, is that too much for just tweeters?

    can anyone provide links to the products they recomend.
    the only think im set on so far is a koda 6 mid, i need tweets and comps, unless there is a package deal thats better then what i would be looking at. anything you guys recomend will be considered

    thanks again,
    derek



    God's my co-pilot... but the Devil is ridin' shotgun!


    Car: 97 Grand Cherokee v8. 318ci.

    3 header back exhaust
    242 - hp 30 - 8.8
    6" lift
    35" BFG's.

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    Re: Buying a component set piece by piece.

    edit:

    I think my best bet is buying a kit. For the kit i have around 150 bucks, what would you suggest?

    thanks again
    Last edited by derek33; 03-15-2005 at 08:57 PM.



    God's my co-pilot... but the Devil is ridin' shotgun!


    Car: 97 Grand Cherokee v8. 318ci.

    3 header back exhaust
    242 - hp 30 - 8.8
    6" lift
    35" BFG's.

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    Re: Buying a component set piece by piece.

    opinions on this 3way system?

    http://carsound.com/articles/publish/printer_16.shtml

    how much do they cost?



    God's my co-pilot... but the Devil is ridin' shotgun!


    Car: 97 Grand Cherokee v8. 318ci.

    3 header back exhaust
    242 - hp 30 - 8.8
    6" lift
    35" BFG's.

  13. #13
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    Re: Buying a component set piece by piece.

    Quote Originally Posted by derek33
    opinions on this 3way system?

    http://carsound.com/articles/publish/printer_16.shtml

    how much do they cost?

    Excellent excellent speakers. However, they'll run ya about $800 or so


    For $150 or less, look into the OZ Vector series and some lower line DLS from Tplaya07. Focal Access and Rainbow Soundlines should also be in that price range. The RE RE comps are close to being in that price range.




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    Re: Buying a component set piece by piece.

    I forgot about RE

    Ill look into those.

    also, is 2 layers of dynamat on each door enough to stop all vibrations i will get in my doors and prevent my music from being heard outside.



    God's my co-pilot... but the Devil is ridin' shotgun!


    Car: 97 Grand Cherokee v8. 318ci.

    3 header back exhaust
    242 - hp 30 - 8.8
    6" lift
    35" BFG's.

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    Re: Buying a component set piece by piece.

    Quote Originally Posted by derek33
    I forgot about RE

    Ill look into those.

    also, is 2 layers of dynamat on each door enough to stop all vibrations i will get in my doors and prevent my music from being heard outside.

    It should stop most vibrations. The music will likely still be able to be heard outside the vehicle.

    You can add some acoustical foam like ensolite (http://www.raamaudio.com/products.htm) that will actually act to absorb soundwaves. Also, if installing the speakers in your door, you'll need to use the deadener to completely seal the door (to isolate the speakers front wave from it's rearwave). A single layer over the inner metal door frame to cover any holes should be good (if you haven't done it already)




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