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  1. #31
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    Re: Speaker FAQ

    You don't need a 4-channel, a 2-channel will work just fine for a single comp set.







  2. #32
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    Re: Speaker FAQ

    Even if it is a 3way comp set?

    ok.

    Lets say i want the rexxx mids in the doors, and sense i already have them, the re re 6.5's & Tweets in the kicks?

    if my amp puts out like 75x2@4 and 150x2@2, then the mids will get the proper 150 watts, and the rest will get the proper 75?

    Or is that not what you are saying?....


    Basically the Q is will my amp see a terrible stupid load, and send all the speakers the same power?



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  3. #33
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    Re: Speaker FAQ

    Hi. I have a question for the Experts in here.
    First I am new in here and just registered myself.
    Second, I am from India and need your expert advice.

    Alpine have just opened up their own retail store in New Delhi-India.

    I have zeroed myself to buy Alpine cda-9827 for my vehicle.
    I am only confused which speakers of alpine should i buy along with it.
    I dont want to spend much and donot have much clue about component sets though I have read the sticky in here and have understood, however, my intrest is only for clean and crispy sound and not loudness.
    Appreciate if you could provide me 2 options as to the set of speakers for rear i should buy.My vehicle already has come with factory pre fitted alpine speakers in the front with model spe-1002.
    I was suggested SPS-170A in coaxial by the alpine shop and if I chose component something in my budget would be close to SCS-1756.
    But i want your opinion.
    tks
    Last edited by aniel; 04-14-2005 at 11:09 AM. Reason: missed something




  4. #34
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    Re: Speaker FAQ

    Quote Originally Posted by iamamp3pimp
    Even if it is a 3way comp set?

    ok.

    Lets say i want the rexxx mids in the doors, and sense i already have them, the re re 6.5's & Tweets in the kicks?

    if my amp puts out like 75x2@4 and 150x2@2, then the mids will get the proper 150 watts, and the rest will get the proper 75?

    Or is that not what you are saying?....


    Basically the Q is will my amp see a terrible stupid load, and send all the speakers the same power?
    For one, it's only a 3-way component "set" if all 3 speakers go to the same passive crossover network. In your example, the RE 6.5+tweets would be a component set, and the XXX mids would be additional speakers that you are trying to work in.

    To make it all work, you'd either have to make your own passive crossovers to mix the comps with the XXX's (then each triple set would act as one speaker to the amp and become a component "set" more or less, and yes, it would put out about 75 to the mids+tweets and 150 to the XXX....assuming that the comps are 4 ohm and the XXX is 2 ohm) OR you could use active crossovers and run the RE comps on one amp and the XXXs on a second amp




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    Re: Speaker FAQ

    Quote Originally Posted by Exaran
    For one, it's only a 3-way component "set" if all 3 speakers go to the same passive crossover network. In your example, the RE 6.5+tweets would be a component set, and the XXX mids would be additional speakers that you are trying to work in.
    Regardless, it's still a 3-way front stage




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    Re: Speaker FAQ

    Quote Originally Posted by iamamp3pimp
    Even if it is a 3way comp set?

    ok.

    Lets say i want the rexxx mids in the doors, and sense i already have them, the re re 6.5's & Tweets in the kicks?

    if my amp puts out like 75x2@4 and 150x2@2, then the mids will get the proper 150 watts, and the rest will get the proper 75?

    Or is that not what you are saying?....


    Basically the Q is will my amp see a terrible stupid load, and send all the speakers the same power?
    if it were ME, id keep the RE mid\tweet comp set on its passive Xover the way it wants to be - on channel 1\2 for 75x2@4, and then channel 3\4 id run straight to an active BANDPASS Xover and then to the XXXmids in your doors - play with the xover until it blends with the mids\tweets and the substage, then you will have 75x2@4 and on the other channels, 150x2@2. and full controll over the midbass frequencies and the subbass frequencies (via low pass filter on your amp). the mid\tweet will be static (cuz of the passive Xover) but they were meant to play those frequencies... you might have to lowpass the signal INTO the passive Xover. a simple Fmod from harrison labs on cardomain\store can do this, or the active Xover might have 2 or 3 channels you can use instead to make it more controllable because Fmods will ONLY cut at a CERTAIN frequency.

    if my kodas were 2ohm, thats what id be doing using a ST-1100 or whatever memphis 5 channel amp. and the horns on the other two channels - with the avalanche on the 5th channel with 1100w. what a beautiful amp

    but nOOooo - adire just HAD to make them SVC4

    hope that helps.




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    Re: Speaker FAQ

    verryyyyyy newbie question i'm gonna ask right now... what is a baffle... how does it work... what would i use to make one... haha yea i am a newb... i did do a search but couldn't really find what i needed to know. and the stuff i found i got confused lol.



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    Re: Speaker FAQ

    A baffle is what you mount speakers to...you build 'em with MDF




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    Re: Speaker FAQ

    wow i truely feel stupid right about now lol



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    Re: This Forum Needs A Sticky

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Frost
    There are speakers that play full range quite well, maybe you can't fit a set of Weems or Voight pipes in a vehicle, but they do exist and are in common usage
    jordans




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    Re: Speaker FAQ

    Jordans are good, if you have the amp power to run them with...compared to Tang Band or Fostex full rangers, they're inefficient as hell.




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    Re: Speaker FAQ

    don't know if this is technically on topic, but what cross overs would be best to use when achieving good quality? or are all cross overs the same?




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    Re: Speaker FAQ

    Quote Originally Posted by AznRevlAzn
    don't know if this is technically on topic, but what cross overs would be best to use when achieving good quality? or are all cross overs the same?

    Ohh.....crossovers are FAR from the same. Crossovers are honestly a pretty big topic to cover. There are many, many things to take into consideration, and many, many different crossover designs. Linkwitz Riley, Butterworth, Chebychev, Bessel, elliptical........And you have things to take into consideration like phase shifts, efficiency (higher slopes will give you greater efficiency), etc etc.......

    Basically, for the best "sound quality", you would want to use the crossovers that optimize the speakers and their in-car performance. You do this by way of selecting the proper crossover type, points, slopes, and "accessories" such as zobel networks.

    This is where the "active vs. passive" debate comes in. The passives that come with your pre-built components (like Boston Acoustics, Alpine, etc) are optimized for the speakers themselves; but they are not designed to optimize the speakers performance in your car/install. The crossover points and slopes that "optimize" the speakers themselves will not be the same crossover points and slopes that are optimal for your install. You may need to underlap or overlap crossover points, different slopes may be necessary, etc etc. This is where active comes into play. Active crossovers allow you to select what crossover points (and sometimes slopes) are used, so you can use the combination that works best in your car and your install. This can help you achieve better in-car response. Active crossovers also give you level control over both the mid and tweeter, whereas most passives only have volume controls on the tweeter.

    However, active crossovers don't allow for things like zobel networks, tweeter protection, etc etc. You can build them yourself and add them in-line with the speaker though. Plus, the active crossover is another item in the signal chain, and the more things in the signal chain, the higher the chances of noise.


    So, basically, there is no "best", as with anything. You just need to find what works best in your car and your install.




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    Re: Speaker FAQ

    another question about crossovers....
    If anybody reads this anymore
    Would crossovers built in head unit work for simple setup. On my kenwood deck I have 5 presets of crossovers.

    I was confused about 2 ways and three ways. So if I have a set rated at say 100rms will I need to connect crossovers to each speakers (tweetr,midbass,midrange) or will I need only connecting crossover to one output and then have postive and negative leads to amp from cross..
    Thanks in advance.




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    Re: Speaker FAQ

    Quote Originally Posted by hellomota
    another question about crossovers....
    If anybody reads this anymore
    Would crossovers built in head unit work for simple setup. On my kenwood deck I have 5 presets of crossovers.
    I believe you are talking about a built-in equalizer, not a built in crossover. And yes, for a simple setup, the HU's built in equalizer will do fine.

    I was confused about 2 ways and three ways. So if I have a set rated at say 100rms will I need to connect crossovers to each speakers (tweetr,midbass,midrange) or will I need only connecting crossover to one output and then have postive and negative leads to amp from cross..
    Thanks in advance.
    If you use a passive crossover, you only need to run one input into the crossover, then connect all of the speakers to the outputs of the crossover.




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