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    xover question.

    Im looking for a xover to go with my xxx6.5 (i know what everyone is thinking oh no not another one of these threads) but i do infact have a valid question. Supa and i were talking about tweeters and he suggested the dls ur1. they look pretty sweet. now i noticed that they are 4ohm and the xxx 6.5 are 2 ohm. what kind of problems would this pose while looking for a xover? i could get 2 tweeters on each side and wire them down to 2 ohm however i hear that having one tweeter above another screws things up. or since i am gettin a total of 4 xxx mids would it be best to wire them together in sets of to to 4 ohm and then into the x over so that way they match the tweets.







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    Re: xover question.

    you don't need to match the tweets and mids for impedance. They each do their own thing. The amp will see the mid and tweet separately even if they are in the same network.

    I've heard 2 pair tweet setups be4 (many around here) but I don't really like it that much. Stick to the single pair of tweets, i'm sure you'll be fine.

    As for the DLS comp passives, check to see if the original speakers for the DLS are both 4ohms for tweet and mid. If so, I think theoretically you can use it. This is taking for granted that you're wiring your xxx's to a 4ohmload.

    I always say it's not really a smart move to use a passive from another maker cause the passives might contain a zobel or an L-pad of some sort incorporated into it. As each driver is different, it wouldn't work the way it should with different passives. If you still would like to use it, then I guess you will need to swap out some parts from the network to match the coils of the new drivers.

    I vote that you build your own passive network. It's not very hard to do, provided that you don't show it outside (cause chances are that it's gonna look butt ugly like mine is lol). It MIGHT also be cheaper to build your own than to purchase an expensive passive.

    Since you're planning on two sets in your doors, what will your final ohmload be for the xxx's? 1 ohm or 4 ohms?



    Team Caraudio

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    Re: xover question.

    well it all depends really. i have 3 wiring oprions 1 2 or 4 ohm. all dependant on what i need to make it work right.




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    Re: xover question.

    Aren't the mids a single 2ohm? that means it'd be either a 1 or 4 ohm, no? how can a couple of 2ohm VC have a final ohmload of 2?



    Team Caraudio

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    Bass drive-by's are uncool.

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    Re: xover question.

    if i dont wire them together but then id need seperate x overs




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    Re: xover question.

    how exactly do i go about building my own passive network. i beleive would nee 2 4 channel amps. (only 3 channels would be used on each amp though)




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    Re: xover question.

    If you don't wire them together, that means a separate channel for each mid? And in the same chamber? With my limited knowledge, I wouldn't know whether the gains were perfectly aligned with each other which would be crucial (i think).

    Making a passive xo is easy enough, imo. It just needs to be calculated properly and some good soldering. One inductor (coil) and one capacitor for a 12dB/oct (2nd order). You'll need more if you want to go higher, like 3rd (18dB) or 4th (24dB).

    Some speakers, it seems, sound better with a 4th order while some perform well with a 2nd order.

    Also, some say a linkwitz riley is better than butterworth, etc. I've tried both on 2nd order in the car and I couldn't tell the difference. I chose the linkwitz cause it saved me a few pennies cause one part was much cheaper than the other. lol~

    Calculating the necessary figures are easy enough with a xo calculator (abundant on the net, I personally use xoversim).

    As a base, you CAN use a PCB like me, but there's really no need to do so. You can tack them on a piece of MDF if you wish with a gluegun.



    Team Caraudio

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    Bass drive-by's are uncool.

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    Re: xover question.

    do you know a website that will help me with instruction on puting parts together?




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    Re: xover question.

    Well, this is where I go to figure out the zobel network part numbers:

    http://www.mhsoft.nl/spk_calc.asp#impeqalize

    There are a lot of sites around that teaches you what to do.

    http://www.bcae1.com/ is a fine place to start.

    Oh, and don't get confused with what to do at the ends of the + and -. You join the high pass and low pass together. The - is actually the same line throughout the network, so you might want to reserve a big gob of space for that.

    If you need more info, hit me up on [email protected] on msn.

    What I said here MIGHT NOT BE 100% correct, but it sure works for me.



    Team Caraudio

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    Bass drive-by's are uncool.

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    Re: xover question.

    this is a pic of my xo (I've swapped the coils with each other so now the mids have the larger inductor instead of the tweet)



    just in case that doesn't work,

    [img=http://img65.exs.cx/img65/5120/dscn74141ig.th.jpg]



    Team Caraudio

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    RF 60.2 amp
    eD A15.22
    Soundstream picasso 1400.1D

    Bass drive-by's are uncool.

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    Re: xover question.

    hey thanks. wondering about how much did that cost you? for the parts that is. i have an idea on how to make it look good using some smoked plexi and lcds




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    Re: xover question.

    Smoked plexi sounds awesome..

    I spent prolly about $60~70 in all. You can opt to get more expensive parts, such as the flat coil inductor, yadda dadda.. but seeing how wire is wire, I figure a cap is a cap and inductor is an inductor. If you go the expensive route, you CAN pay over 1G with a 24dB/oct slope just on xo parts.

    these are some of the custom xo's sold here:

    this one is going for about $350

    $600

    price not given, i'd expect he'd sell at about $200 or so.


    this is my fav style, but a lil expensive. Cost him $1200 to make, and is selling for $750 now.



    Team Caraudio

    Sony C90, 210 EQ
    Seas 27TDF/C, RE XXX 6.5, custom xo (dyn 240GT sitting idle)
    RF 60.2 amp
    eD A15.22
    Soundstream picasso 1400.1D

    Bass drive-by's are uncool.

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    Re: xover question.

    I usually advise against building your own passives. There is a lot that goes into it.....finding the optimal xover point and slope, etc etc. If you absolutely wanted to go passive, IMHO it'd be worth the change to send them to madisound (www.madisound.com) and have them 1) measure the speaker, and 2) design and build the passives. That way you KNOW they are done right and optimized for those specific speakers. And you could have them build in all kinds of cool things like tweeter protection, tweeter attenuation/boost, zobel network, etc etc.




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