4" doors, 6.5" decks, 10" subs - matching ranges

[theCybe]

Deck: Sony CDX-F5705X

Trunk: 24 - 150Hz ( 3 MTX 10" 8104a ) ( Sealed, 1.8"^3ea )
SAmp: Hifonics BX1500d
Wiring: KnuKonceptz; 4ga power, 8ga speaker; etc.
Impedance: 1.33 Ohms

Rear: xxx - xxxxHz ( Need 6.5" midbass )
RAmp: TBD, based on 6.5" specs
Wiring: Generic
Impedance: TBD

Doors: xxxx - xxxxx ( Need 4" highs )
CAmp: Run from deck?

Vents: xxxxx - xxxxx ( Included with comp set? )
TAmp: Run from deck?

---

Would like a solid midbass with good extension; no enclosure feasible, so they'll be sharing the trunk, for the most part;

4" should carry the range, and should be loud enough with low feed;

Tweets don't need a ridiculous upper spectrum; Just enough to fill.

Where would you go with this on a reasonable budget?

6.5s & tweets ~ $80 - $130
4s ~ $50

Of course, if a good speaker should run more or less, I'm open to that =)

My main concern is the 4", the factory Bose are flappin' in the wind; Which suggests a lot to me, including that Bose integrated a way-off crossover, and speakers not suitable for such an open "enclosure" as the doors.

I also imagine the factory 6.5" won't stand up to the 10s;

?

[squeak9798]

Wow...I'm totally lost...LOL. Your post looks like a collection of random thoughts rather than an single organized, collective idea

First things first, 150hz is WAY too high for your subs to be playing. Try to cut those down to somewhere in the 50-80hz range. I understand 150hz may be necessary now with (what I assume is) the stock factory speakers. But when you get aftermarket speakers in there, definitely cut those subs down by atleast an octave.

Next; Don't put your main midbass speakers behind you. If you want 6.5" midbass speakers, fit them somewhere up front (doors, kickpanels, etc etc). With only a 4" upfront and the 6.5s in back, your main midbass content will be coming from behind you; not good.

Third; sounds like you are looking for a decent 4" comp set for upfront aswell? I'd honestly re-think that and see if you couldn't some how just run a 2-way 6.5" comp set upfront. 4" comp set won't really give you enough midbass; and as I mentioned, you don't want your main midbass drivers behind you (6.5s in the rear deck). Food for thought I guess.


But, if you are contemplating running them off of your deck, then just look for good quality co-axials for upfront. Don't run components if you aren't going to properly power them off of an amp.

Well, I *think* I answered most of your questions

[theCybe]

I just ripped the frequency range from the spec-sheet of the subwoofers; I'll cross them over at a lower range, which will still be dependant on the 6.5"s.

The locations of the speakers are to remain factory; I don't wanna go hacking up an expensive car. So essentially, I'm just replacing what's already there.

The wiring, with the exception of the 6.5's, (which used to be run off the integrated bose amp) will remain standard, (from the deck.)

So the goal is 6.5"s in the rear deck, amplified;
4"s in the doors, from deck
Tweets to replace stock ones, probably included with the comp set anyway.

That said, thanks for your reply, and how about some recommendations?

Anything further?

[theCybe]

bumpabumpabump.

[theCybe]

snort.

[Moe Lester]

You probably have a factory amp somewhere in there... Id run all new wires from the H/U if your gonna power the speakers w/ that.

[theCybe]

The 6.5s have their own dedicated amp, welded to the back of the basket. They're on their way out.

The front doors will retain their factory wiring, the rear deck signals will be passed-through the sub amp, and into a component-sized 2 channel.

[DBfan187]

Seriously, you WANT the midbass up front. You won't hear a thing from them in the rear.

[theCybe]

Not much I can do, short of fabricating custom pods; Maybe I could use the rear doors.

But my only available real-estate in the front are two 4" - which I could adapt to 5.25, but that's my glass ceiling.

What do you suggest?

I could mount a solox in the moonroof hole.

[Logikalliquid]

If you dont want to hack up your doors, maybe you should look in to the q-logic kickpanels. some people say they are flimsy pieces of crap, but a little fiberglass reinforcement is very easy since you already have the form to lay it on.

[theCybe]

Hmm. This becomes a pain in the ***. If I grab a q-form, I'm gonna want my money's worth, sizewise. Then I have to go commando on the wiring scheme. =-\

Ultimately, discarding my rear deck speakers altogether.

Amp in the glovebox, anyone?

[theCybe]

No Audi Q-forms =-\

Custom doorpanels from Jehnert - $1450.