I am running one set of the Kicker KS25 tweets in the A- pillars, one set of CDT in armrest pillar, and a dedicated tweet on a CDT Briaxl 6.5, on each door,and a 6.5 CDT Cl-60..I couldnt hear the Infinity Kappas/CDT/Polks/Massive/JBL/Beyma/DLS/a few other tweets in the A pillars.But these KS25 are in your Face! which is what I needed, and can adjust off my preamp EQ
Pretty Insane in an Xcab truck! Ive got deadner through out, and it still moves some panels,roof ect..Dash kinda scares me at times,moves so much that I feel like the Air bags may go off! LOL..1000rms DVC 2ohm Audiobahn AW1008t 10s.USA Made/Discontinued
that's pretty nutty... maybe i'll have to go for 2 10's someday here soon
In 1989, (I had a 10/10in set up in a bed of a 1987 Toyota single cab with a matal Snugg Topthat I sealed with fiberglass insulation, and 1/2 plywood, and a spring loaded window Boot..That was the loudest system Ive ever had to date, with 1 vii Colossus,1 Vulcans,1 Odin, and 2 Plutos.with all JBL Mids and Highs.I dont have that kind of money these days to do that,and up in age for all that work involved..lol..
That sounds like one cool truck... I'm not familiar with what colossus vulcans odin and plutos are... subs or amps?
This was before I was even born.. Lol
Right on! Hey i had a question.. regarding airspace, if you were to put 2 10's into a single chamber box compared to a similar 2 12's... what generally would be the trend for best performance? As in tuning and cu. feet
Yeah I never really thought about that chamber theory that makes sense though. Thanks for all the advice!
I think the problem you're running to (OP) is that of matching the levels of different kinds of speakers with each other. Remember that your door speakers and tweeter may have different sensitivity. It's hard to believe that a tweeter can have such a low sensitivity, as a raw tweeter without passive crossover parts can get very loud on line 10 watts of power. However, you need to remember that these tweeters come with an in-line crossover network, which among other things may have some resistors for tweeter attenuation.
Adding a tweeter to a sound system with coaxial speakers is a mistake number 1 of car audio in my book. The issues you're observing are the reason I don't like the idea of just throwing a random tweeter into a sound system if you're not running active. You can have all sorts of weird interactions, even with matched levels (tweeter playing too low, not playing low enough, etc). If you're running active, you have the power to adjust the level as well as crossover slopes etc. But if you're not running active, the best you can do is to buy a component set. This will ensure that the passive crossover network was (hopefully) designed to match the level of tweeters with the supplied woofers. Of course, a lot of passive crossovers also get it wrong. This is why bi-amp or running active is a better way.
So you have them high passed at 10Khz? That's what it looked like you said.
OP there are better tweeters out there for $100 if in fact that is really the issue....