Polk MM upgrade?

I've got the mm's and they do lean toward the bright side but not that bad in my opinion as compared to infinity kappas and the like. midrange is not laid back in my opinion.

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Originally Posted by zako

I have heard the opposite. Mid-range is laid back/weak, while the tweeter is too bright. In any case, car's interior can color sound more than anything. For example, simply putting the woofers in the stock locations off axis (e.g. doors), will result in a serious dip above 2.5KHz if the woofer is intended to play audibly in that range. Reflections will color the sound in various ways. That's why getting a DSP is the first step to get a sound system sound right.

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I've got the mm's and they do lean toward the bright side but not that bad in my opinion as compared to infinity kappas and the like. midrange is not laid back in my opinion.

The mids are just a tad light to me but tweets are perfect. All personal preference I guess. I think I'm going to change the switch on the crossover and see if that will get my mids up where I want em though.

Ok so I had the attenuator switch at 0 db so nevermind on switching it lol. I do have a question though, on my four channel amp what crossover settings do yall have your dials set at? My C9 has a x1 or x10 switch the x1 is for subs cause it's like 45hz to 450hz. The x10 is 450hz to 4.5hz I assume thats 4500hz? Either way I run a passive setup front and rear used. Should I turn the dial all the way up or half way or what?

Added processing and running active is the way to go.

I'm looking into getting a 80PRS right now lol. But until then where is the sweet spot for the crossover dial usually?

Keep your Polks and go active. I'm running the DB series active and I have ZERO interest in upgrading. Until then, put the tweeter switches on -3 and try that out. Also, cross your Polks @ 80 hz.

Ok I'll try that thanks

Meant to add - if you plan on going active with a 80 PRS HU, you'll have to ditch the rear fill (I personally do NOT like rear fill, especially with way more cone area back there vs. the 5.25s up front). However, if you do want rear fill, go active with an analog active crossover coupled with a 4 channel. (The analog crossover can split your front RCA signal into mid and high signals to feed a 4 channel) Then run the rear fill off the HU (Do consider ditching rear fill altogether though, IMHO). I love my Cache CEX crossover, but it appears to be discontinued. Getting one that does bandpass is kinda tough. It appears this one does though:

Lanzar OPTIX3B 3-Way Electronic Crossover Network w/Remote Bass

Or, if I had to do it all over again, I would get this amp, and enjoy awesome power, AND built in active crossovers. I have experience with hooking this amp up to run a set of Polk DXI components (similar to my DBs) with great results:

Precision Power PPI BK 800.4 800W RMS, 4-Ch Class A/B Black Ice Car Amp

Or, if space is a concern, grab their Class D 4 channel, and enjoy the same active capabilities:

Precision Power PPI P900.4 (p9004) 4-Channel Phantom Car Amplifier

Polk makes one just like the Phantom, but it's out of stock at Sonic. I'm not sure about your current amp's crossovers, but I thought I would put some food for thought on the table for ya.