Help with with components. Polk DB

[TFD]

I have a Silverado regular cab.
Polk Db 6501's in factory local. Polk 4x6 Coaxials also
HU is Pioneer Avh-4400, highs amp is RF Punch 600.2.

I guess I'm asking for opinions/ suggestions to make the best of my current gear.
Just purchased new Sundowns and sub amp along with a new enclosure designed by Jason at Mobile Enclosure.
So I'm all spent out for the moment. Lol

Any help??

[audiobaun]

Whats your max budget,and are those 4x6 in the dash,or in the rear kick panels?My 4x6 were/are in the rear kick panels, and are just unhooked/not used.Xcab 98,didnt want to take the risk of cracking,or breaking the panels to remove for speakers that i will not need, and can just cut the wires in stead.What yr is your chevy?Do you have tweeters in the top door panels/armrest,and 6.5-6.75 in the bottom door panels?

[audiobaun]

Im running Kicker KS25 tweets in the front pillars on 50 rms ea off of an Autotek BTS 7404 ch 1&2,a pair of 6.5 Briaxl in existing speaker location,a set of CDT tweets in door pillars, and an old school 5.25 Polkmm woofer,on an old school MeanMachine 99,Soon to remove the 5.25 woofers, and run a set of 6.5 CDT Cl60 components in place.WoofersEtc.com - HD-63it - CDT Audio HD-6.5" 2-Way Braxial Component Set
WoofersEtc.com - CL-61A-25 PRO - CDT Audio Classic 6.5" 2-Way Component Speakers
WoofersEtc.com - DRT-25T - CDT Audio 1" Titanium Dome Tweeters
WoofersEtc.com - 11KS25 - Kicker 25mm (1-Inch) KS Series Titanium Dome Tweeters
No need for the 4x6 in rear kick panels,as these take care of all my mids and highs up front

[TFD]

My Silvo is a 2000. 6.5's in front/lower door and tweets right above...
Would I notice a huge sound difference if I moved tweets to A pillars and bounced off the windshield?

Im running Kicker KS25 tweets in the front pillars on 50 rms ea off of an Autotek BTS 7404 ch 1&2,a pair of 6.5 Briaxl in existing speaker location,a set of CDT tweets in door pillars, and an old school 5.25 Polkmm woofer,on an old school MeanMachine 99,Soon to remove the 5.25 woofers, and run a set of 6.5 CDT Cl60 components in place.WoofersEtc.com - HD-63it - CDT Audio HD-6.5" 2-Way Braxial Component Set
WoofersEtc.com - CL-61A-25 PRO - CDT Audio Classic 6.5" 2-Way Component Speakers
WoofersEtc.com - DRT-25T - CDT Audio 1" Titanium Dome Tweeters
WoofersEtc.com - 11KS25 - Kicker 25mm (1-Inch) KS Series Titanium Dome Tweeters
No need for the 4x6 in rear kick panels,as these take care of all my mids and highs up front

So you are running 2 sets of tweets, 6.5's and 5.25's??
6.5's and 5.25's in doors?

I thought about moving the tweets to front pillars and putting like a 2.5 or 3" midrange in doors above the DBs...
Idk

[winkychevelle]

in that body truck i liked my tweets firing up at the windshield in the corners of the dash slightly aimed at the driver and my mids were sealed up in the factory locations. i unhooked the back speakers.

[TFD]

My only thing is that my 6.5s don't seem terribly loud. I'm afraid if I were to take out my 4x6s, the sub stage would completely drowned out the fronts.
That is why I thought maybe a 3 way setup up front may be more ideal. I could also lose the 4x6's and go to a strictly midrange driver.
Lol Idk, just throwing ideas out there

[winkychevelle]

i would just get some decent components up front and an amp for them. you'd be surprised how much an amp can make a difference. adding 3.5s in the dash isnt really gonna help and th 4x6s are right by you ear of course you can alway hear them. try amping your 6.5s you might like the polks on an amp though ive heard polk db tweeters dont like power

[TFD]

6.5's and 4x6's are on a Punch 600.2 - It sounds good, just always looking for better. Midbass is ok, a little lacking.

[winkychevelle]

then loudness shouldnt be a problem and i would seal and deaden your doors it helps quite a bit for midbass as well as make sure u have good seals around you speaker. the one in-between the speaker and the door panel is the mos important

[audiobaun]

My Silvo is a 2000. 6.5's in front/lower door and tweets right above...
Would I notice a huge sound difference if I moved tweets to A pillars and bounced off the windshield?

Three sets of tweets,one in the window pillars, one in door pillars, and one is attatched to the briaxl in the stock 6.5 location,6.5, and 5.25 in doors,4-10 in 1000k subs take up the back seat location.Will be taking out the 5.25 woofers, and adding the6.5 in that location @APPROX 70-80 HTZ



So you are running 2 sets of tweets, 6.5's and 5.25's??
6.5's and 5.25's in doors?

I thought about moving the tweets to front pillars and putting like a 2.5 or 3" midrange in doors above the DBs...
Idk

A good set of components with rms power should sound great.Sound deadening the doors,as I have done will, and does make a hudge difference,maybe add a center stage speaker will make a hudge difference.A friend of mine added a cdt center stage pair of 2.5 midrange, and sounds amazing amped power of course.Ill see if I can find the one he has and give the link on it.I havent done a center stage speaker yet, but plan too

[winkychevelle]

A good set of components with rms power should sound great.Sound deadening the doors,as I have done will, and does make a hudge difference,maybe add a center stage speaker will make a hudge difference.A friend of mine added a cdt center stage pair of 2.5 midrange, and sounds amazing amped power of course.Ill see if I can find the one he has and give the link on it.I havent done a center stage speaker yet, but plan too

just adding speakers can be horrible for the sound stage i would suggest he look at his install before adding speakers. hell i would replace the front components and aim the tweets on axis if thats what it would take.

opp are the rear 4x6s on the same amp as the fronts? if so take them of and play with just the fronts a little a feel like the rears are distorting faster causing you to keep the fronts turned down. and 4x6s dont like moch power where as the 6.5s can take a good bit more

[audiobaun]

http://www.cdtstore.com/dealer/default.html.I plan on adding after I see how the 6.5 does up front for me

[winkychevelle]

http://www.cdtstore.com/dealer/default.html.I plan on adding after I see how the 6.5 does up front for me

unless he has a good processor which he doesnt it is going to be hard to attenuate these to blend with the rest of the speakers

[audiobaun]

just adding speakers can be horrible for the sound stage i would suggest he look at his install before adding speakers. hell i would replace the front components and aim the tweets on axis if thats what it would take.

opp are the rear 4x6s on the same amp as the fronts? if so take them of and play with just the fronts a little a feel like the rears are distorting faster causing you to keep the fronts turned down. and 4x6s dont like moch power where as the 6.5s can take a good bit more

it can be horrible if placement isnt correct.Meca /sq people use a laser,used to use string to run to where the speaker location points to, and get the speakers to point to the head location of the seated areas.They do some amazing things to aim the speakers/placement of them,that is just crazy.Most systems are not over 120 db,but sound Insane.The vehicles are sealed from road noise completely,no rattling of any sort,different hertz levels for each set of speakers with the lowest distortion level possible.Id like to have both worlds,working on it,but its either or really.Aiming the speakers will also make a hudge difference by far,and amped properly and set at the proper htz level.I agree.I wouldnt even run those 4x6 in the rear pillars at all.the location of them are too high/close in order to hear the rest of the system in my opinion

[audiobaun]

unless he has a good processor which he doesnt it is going to be hard to attenuate these to blend with the rest of the speakers

quite true,Im rambling on of my set up..sorry.A 3-4in midrange would be a nice addition to the mix up front though.Would sound very nice